Dt86

And DUBs a great teacher. Hes helped me out more than once. Ill say that youve got a pair tackling that! Ha ha.

syco_cop

Well it's question time again. I decided to fill in the hole for the power antenna since I've always hated power antennas. After filling the hole and sanding to shape I have minor imperfections that need filled in. Again I'm confused on what to use. In one post I read to use Evercoat vette panel adhesive/filler catalog #870. My issue is the picture off evercoats web page shows the can saying "for non smc fiberglass panels". But if I understand the description properly it would be ok to use as a filler but not a bonding agent for smc, correct? Or would evercoats smc panel adhesive be better, catalog #994. What I was going to use originally was west systems additive #410, microlight fairing filler. I really have my head spinning on this. My biggest concern is seeing mapping down the road. Any advice would be greatly obliged.

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DUB

EVERCOAT VETTE PANEL ADHESIVE (part number 870 or 880) IS used to bond NON-SMC panels together and also fill them if needed.....AND...it is a FILLER for SMC PANELS....BUT it CAN NOT BE USED TO BOND SMC PANELS TOGETHER>>>>>>ONLY FILL SMC.

EVERCOAT SMC PANEL ADHESIVE ( part number 994) Can be used to BOND fiberglass and SMC panels.....BUT it is an ADHESIVE and only used to bond them. IT IS NOT A FILLER and can not nor should NOT be used as a filler ESPECIALLY when the application of the 994 is thin. It will NEVER dry. So using the 994 SMC Panel Adhesive to fill pinholes is a waste of time. But if a person were to apply a huge blob...it would cure due to the volume would allow it to cure correctly.....But...why would a person do that when there are other products that could do the job and not waste good product.

DUB

syco_cop

Thanks for setting me straight DUB. You're a life saver.

syco_cop

Everything is glued back together. So far so good. Gaps came out nice. Got the garage cleared out so I can get ready for paint. DUB if you see this thank you so much for your assistance, I'd still have my thumb up my **** trying to figure out what to do next. Thinking I'll continue this thread for future reference and I'm sure I'll have many more questions that might help others in the future.

Dt86

looks great!

DUB

LOOKS GREAT! And glad to be of some assistance.

Question: Have you applied the seam sealer to the inside seam at the B pillar where the quarter panel attaches???

ALSO...This is IMPORTANT!!!!!!
The two mount locations for your fuel door assembly....the two that are CLOSEST to your rear hatch glass.....the black 'stuff' that you see on them...make sure you kinda protect this 'stuff'. The reason is...this 'stuff' seals off the cavity of what you just replaced in your repair....and this 'stuff'...in conjunction with some non hardening goo you can put over the hole when you put the fuel door assembly down for final installation PREVENT water from getting into this cavity. IF water gets into this cavity...it is essentially a GREENHOUSE...and can actually wick into the SMC over time...and cause the paint to blister....which is very BAD....and extremely;y hard to repair.

DUB

syco_cop

Got the car disassembled and most of the body is stripped. Still need to strip the front and rear fascia, mirrors, etc.







Found my passenger door was damaged and I didn't like the repair. Instead of repairing I found a perfect door 3hrs away for 70$. Worth the drive.





Not yet, was going to do all the seam filling just before primer. Same with the expanding foam I removed from the corner of where the quarters meet the body. What would you recommend for this?

And what would I use for this? 3M caulk striping?

I'm not trying to build a show car, but a nice daily driver and as such I don't want to get carried away with the door jams or the areas that will get covered by weather striping or molding. On PPG's tech sheets for primers it mentioned it's ok to spray on properly prepped factory finishes. Does this mean its ok to spray over properly prepped clear? As I was sanding down the paint I discovered this car had been pained twice before, and there were layers of primer right on top of old clear. If this is the case it would save me a lot of time in the door jams and hidden areas.

DUB

Lord Fusor or even SEM has an expandable foam that will work in that area. I use the Lord Fusor stuff. DO NOT use Home Improvement store stuff...it is NOT the same stuff. But do as you wish.

Sealing up the seams at the quarters...I use the CATALYZED SEM beige seam sealer (part number 39477)...but it takes a special gun to use it due to the tube design.

The areas that you need to cover by your fuel door as mentioned. I use pieces of DYnaMat Extreme that I have at my shop. If there is an audio shop that does sound deadening..stop by and see if they have some small squares that can over the area you know you need to cover and seal off so NO water gets into the open area you know is back there.

AS for reading the tech sheets...and they say it can be sued over properly prepped paint/clear, YES...you can prep the CLEAR and shoot on it....BUT.....the hidden 'kiss of death' is that IF the clear/paint you prep is POORLY applied due to being done by some jackass who did not know how to paint....THEN.....you MUST remove that clear and or paint....because...even though what YOU apply to IT will stick to what you prepped CORRECTLY....IT will not stay for long if WHAT IT IS APPLIED TO was not PREVIOUSLY prepped correctly. MAKE SENSE??? SO...and of the layers that you prep...if they begin to flake or chip off...that is letting you know that they did NOT prep the panel. SO...if you have to take it down to the FACTORY CLEAR and start again...then that is what you SHOULD DO.

DUB

syco_cop

Thanks a ton DUB. All the exposed parts of the body, the parts you can see with the doors and hood shut were taken down to the factory primer. I will block the factory primer till I just start to hit the glass and primer from there. Since everything done before me was in fact done by jackasses like you mention, however since these jackasses were lazy all the jams and hard to get places just have factory paint that looks nice with no chips, so I think I'll just scuff and prime those areas to save time. Thanks again for your help. Hopefully next time I post on here the car will be painted baring any new questions.

Dt86

Looking good! Can't wait to see it when it's finished.

syco_cop

Getting real close for primer and I had planned on using PPG from start to finish. From my research I planned on using DPLF epoxy for the first coat with DX814 on the bumper covers. Then use k36 as a surfacer and sealer. When I told the guy at the paint shop my plans he strongly suggested I not use the DPLF and use evercoat feather fill as a base and continue on with the k36. So needless to say with my limited knowledge I'm all confused again.

So what should be the first coat? DPLF, feather fill, or slick sand as I've been reading slick sand is better then the feather edge?

And since I'm here I'm a little confused on the best method for prepping the bumper covers. should I strip with a chemical stripper or sand by hand?

Can I use the k36 with the dx814 on the bumpers as a surfacer?

And finally k36 as a surfacer calls for either dcx8 or dcx61 for a hardner, whats the difference between the two?

Thanks for the advice.

DUB

You can use the DPLF epoxy if you want to. Then...depending on how bad the body is in regards to imperfections and poor sanding and you can see that the finish looks like a wash board. That is when I would apply a polyester primer. VERIFY that applying the polyester primer you choose is OK by manufacturer.

YES...you can go straight on the body with the polyester primer also. The DPLF is providing a little bit more bite for adhesion. Just do not POUND on the epoxy primer. 2 good light wet coats is all you need.

I have been out of the loop on PPG stuff for very long time now....so I do not know about converting the K36 to a sealer.

And when it comes to urethane bumpers. I try at all costs NOT to get down to the yellow-cream colored urethane when I am stripping them. I do not know what to tell you about what to use from PPG's line. I know what to use in the NEXA line...but not PPG. AND...I do know that if you strip the bumpers all the way down to RAW urethane...at least in the NEXA system of products...there are special water borne cleaners that I must use. Raw urethane does not like solvents being applied to them....they are extremely solvent sensitive.

Get a hold of a local PPG rep....if not call 1-800-647-6050 and wait and listen for the teh option for product information or tech. keep in mind that these products are for professionally trained people....so....if you come across as not knowing anything....such as asking a question that is 'basic paint and body 101'.....you might get questioned if you know anything at all. SO...if I were you.....I would obtain any and all 'Product Information Bulletins' for ALL of the products you plan on using and read them so you will already know some of the possible questions that you MAY ahve considered asking. EVEN if you can find the procedure that PPG recommends on refinishing urethane bumpers and read it.

Usually different part numbers on hardeners distinguishes in the temperature range that they can be used. Like I wrote..I do not know for sure. You might also need to look for the 'flex-additive' so you can add it to what ever product you shoot on the urethane bumpers so they remain flexible for a while.

AND....if you use a polyester primer and want to seal it....you do know you can use the DPLF and make it into a sealer and apply it. That way you take the K36 out of the equation all together. This has been done for a very long time....so I do not know why that would have changed.....unless a reformulation of the DP primer....but I doubt it. I AM NOT writing to NOT use the K36....I am just letting you know that there is more than one way to get this done.

Once again...you need to check with a local PPG paint rep....maybe talk with a painter who uses PPG locally....or call the number...1-800-647-6050.

Also...keep in mind that the conditions when this stuff is sprayed DOES come into effect....so if you talk with someone...let them know that you are not in a paint booth that is temperature controlled.

DUB

syco_cop

Should have the door jamb area on the body and doors painted tomorrow. Finally feels like progress is being made.

Dt86

Awesome! Keep up the great work.

DUB

I assume you are going to prime it. Well..this priming session will let you know real fast on how good you 'booth' is in regards to trash getting in the primer. I hope it all goes well.

DUB

syco_cop

I am going to primer. Notice I said going to. Didn't get anything sprayed yesterday, taking longer then expected getting the garage all sealed up. Soon, I hope.

DUB

TRUST ME...making sure you have a very good environment to spray in will make all of the previous time and hard work spent WELL WORTH IT!!!!!!!!!!! Dust and trash is one thing...but getting proper filtered air flow is another thing entirely. Trying to prime or paint in booth with very poor air flow is NO FUN....I know this from past experiences.

DUB

syco_cop

Jams are painted. Everything went perfectly until I sprayed the clear. I quickly learned that you need much more air flow to spray clear. There's a few sags in the clear simply because the garage filled with so much fog I couldn't see what I was doing and kind of pounded the clear on to ensure I had ample coverage. Figured I can always sand the sags out. Will double up on the fans once I spray the body.





Doors on and adjusted, ready for epoxy.




Body is finally one color.




And I have a few minor craters that I had no idea were there until the body was one color. Do I need to fill them in before the feather fill or will the filling properties of the polyester primer fill that in?

DUB

This 'crater' as you call it. Is it an actual hole or divot???? Such as a large pinhole. OR...does it look like a 'fish-eye'....where the epoxy pulled back and left a small 'crater'???

And this 'crater' has a slight bowl shape to it with rounded edges????

If it is a fish-eye....you might be able to carefully wipe it with a Q-tip and some wax and grease remover....and then dry it out with the other end of the Q-tip. BUT I would NOT do it IF the epoxy is still WET.

When you go and polyester prime the car...you can ..as I have done may times when small 'glitches' show up. AFTER your first coat of polyester primer. Let it flash...and then before your second coat. GO in and by using a sharp pointed tool of some type. Take a small drop of the polyester primer and apply it in the spot. NOW...common sense will come into play here where you TEST it first on something so you see how much primer you are applying in the drop. Then prime your second coat.and your should be fine. IF you ahve to...when you are all done....if the spot is still there but not as bad...apply a drop of the primer in that area again.

DUB