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I've used the 3m Perfect-It system in the past after color sanding. It's been years since I bought any compound but will need to get some in the near future. Looking on line it seems that technology has come a ways since I've bought compound. Does anyone have any up-to-date recommendations on compound that they use?... good, bad, indifferent. Thanks in advance, Jason.
Just to be specific, a compound that will take out 1500 wet sand scratches to start with.
i use Chemical Guys compound. their new vseries is rally good. a sample pack is 4 4 oz bottles for 20 bucks. i also never stop at 1500 . i sand to 3k .
if you sand well and go to 3k the sample kit will finish a car . use just a little each session . i use the lake country pads. start with orange finish with black.
I like the Presta products and have been using them for a long time but actually may try out what 'porchdog' uses and see if I gain anything. It is hard to improve on a finish that I can get that has no swirls in it...so it will be if it is any easier or faster is what will make me change. Worth looking into.
Thanks for the info guys. I pulled the trigger and ordered all the compounds (32-38) from them as well as some of the Lake Co. pads, pad conditioner and towels. I was going to order the 4 oz sample kit for $21.99 but was worried about getting through the car on 4 oz bottle. I ordered the same kit but in 16 oz bottles for $49.99. Quite the deal. Thanks again for the help, Jason
Let us know if 'porchdogs secret' to his slick shiny paint jobs works for you. I am interested in how it works for you...not writing that I doubt what porchdog states about it...just would like to hear from you when you are done.
what i like about it other than it works excellent is it smells good and does not make a mess. use it sparingly . it only takes about four dabs of compound on the pad. if you start making a mess your using too much or not cleaning your pad often enough .
keep in mind that foam pads and excessive speed create enough heat to burn the paint . once this happens the finish will never clear up. by burn i mean heating the paint not rubbing through . i constantly wipe off the surface with a wet rag to keep it clean and to cool the surface. getting in a hurry at this step in the job can destroy all your hard work . polishing is more critical than spraying .
what i like about it other than it works excellent is it smells good and does not make a mess. use it sparingly . it only takes about four dabs of compound on the pad. if you start making a mess your using too much or not cleaning your pad often enough .
keep in mind that foam pads and excessive speed create enough heat to burn the paint . once this happens the finish will never clear up. by burn i mean heating the paint not rubbing through . i constantly wipe off the surface with a wet rag to keep it clean and to cool the surface. getting in a hurry at this step in the job can destroy all your hard work . polishing is more critical than spraying .
to what I bolded out and increased the font size.
When I buff and polish...I slow down and get 'ZEN' with the car. I am not in a hurry at all. And my variable speed buffer...I slow it down and allow whatever I am applying being able to be worked out well and not slung all over the place.
All GREAT info! I appreciate the fact that you guys take time out of your day to help us forum members. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes. Jason
One trick I learned from my father-in-law was to add one more step. Use Blue Magic Metal Polish in between the polishing compound step and the waxing. I also use a Meguire's Resin Glaze before the polish.
Just so you know that my F-I-L isn't just a bondo slinger, here's a little of his work.
BTW, here's some stripping, color sanding, and polishing I did on my project boat.
Stripped, then started out with 400, 600, 800, 1000, & finally 1500. Don't skip a step, especially the 1500, you'll notice it! Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound, then Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. Blue Magic, and then a wax.
Last edited by wolfie1961; Apr 15, 2015 at 07:57 PM.
I finally had the chance to use the Chemical Guys stuff today and I LOVE IT... and it really does smell good! I went with Porchdog's recommendation about the Lake Co pads. I've only used a foam pad for final polishing up until today. I really like those pads. They are SO easy to control and get into difficult areas. I prepped the paint to 3000 grit and found that the #32 was actually not a needed step. I used the orange pad and the 34, the yellow pad and the 36 and finished with the black pad and the 38. I also used a spritz or two of their Polishing Pad Conditioner for each reload. I used very little compound because it really does go a long way. It was like no polishing job I've ever done. I didn't have stuff flinging all over and really had no compound "dust" settle on adjoining panels. I'm a fan of this stuff. Thanks again for all the advise and recommendations.
just remember that foam pads create a lot of heat so cool the surface with a damp rag often.
burning paint does not mean cutting through the clear coat. at the right temp urethane will change into a softer resin and take on a fine leather look. this will not polish . it will still be flat and shiny but it will not have the clarity and depth .
i have used chemical guys products since the 70's . over the years i have tried many others but end up going back.
use the orange pad with 32-34 , black with 36-38. rinse out your pad every 3rd application . dead paint on the pad will scratch the finish.
Porchdog, if I sand to #2000 , then with #3000 Trizact, can I skip the V34 and do:
V36 with the LC White pad
V38 with the Black pad and finish with
Glossworkz with the Blue pad?
Not skipping the V34 and Orange pad because of lazyness but because of wanting to save as much clear coat as possible. Won't the V36 take out all of my sanding scratches if I go the 2000-3000 route? Thanks, Fred
i do not skip steps. it just makes it harder. like going from 600 to 1500. i have learned over the years that if i use every step i work much less. i do only use the orange and black pads. on black i will use the white.
i do not skip steps. it just makes it harder. like going from 600 to 1500. i have learned over the years that if i use every step i work much less. i do only use the orange and black pads. on black i will use the white.
Compound Choice
to what I bolded out and increased the font size.
