Need help adjusting hood
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 732
Likes: 150
From: AMARILLO TEXAS
Need help adjusting hood
I have a big block hood that I want to install on my 66. It is a NOS hood. When I put the hood on there is a rise at the middle of the hood on each side next to the fenders. It rises about a 3/16 inch. The front and back of the hood seems ok. Is there some adjustments I can do on the fenders? Will the front nose adjust any to drop the front of the hood a little?
Any help would be appreciated.
Don
Any help would be appreciated.
Don
Last edited by DONR; Nov 18, 2015 at 11:36 PM.
8th Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
IMO, that is going to be a symptom of hand made fiberglass vehicle. To truly fix that gap you will be doing body work to either the hood or fenders (or both). Doors, hoods, trunks, any large hinged panel like that is difficult to adjust in one area without sacrificing the gaps elsewhere.
I have only seen one brand new C2 (still had the window sticker on). The gaps were not within 3/16 tolerance overall. So what i would be implying is that you seem to already have industry standard. If you want it closer than when it was built, you are going to have to modify something or get a different hood and find one that fits your fenders. Of all the early model cars we have worked on, i cant say as i have ever seen a new part fit the same on 2 jobs.
As far as dropping the nose, I have been able to get a little movement out of C3's by shimming or adjusting the front slightly, I am not familiar with the set up there on a C2 so i cant comment on that.
I have only seen one brand new C2 (still had the window sticker on). The gaps were not within 3/16 tolerance overall. So what i would be implying is that you seem to already have industry standard. If you want it closer than when it was built, you are going to have to modify something or get a different hood and find one that fits your fenders. Of all the early model cars we have worked on, i cant say as i have ever seen a new part fit the same on 2 jobs.
As far as dropping the nose, I have been able to get a little movement out of C3's by shimming or adjusting the front slightly, I am not familiar with the set up there on a C2 so i cant comment on that.
Last edited by Medfordautobody; Nov 19, 2015 at 09:10 AM. Reason: additional info
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
DONR,
You wrote:
"The front and back of the hood seems ok."
I am needing to know if by the hood hinges...on the top hood surround area.... when the hood is CLOSED...is the hood flush AT the hood hinge area on each side????
AND...is the hood FLUSH at the top hood surround area right by where the striker pins in the hood are located???
You hood could have a bow in it....and it is possible. Depending on how it was stored and if heat got to the hood.
Doing a modification to raise the front nose section in the middle to fit the hood is possible. LOWERING it.....not so much ESPECIALLY if the hood is flush and the hinges.
You wrote:
"Is there some adjustments I can do on the fenders?"
YES...depending on how a person interprets the word.. 'adjustment'...In my world....'adjustment' is and can be bodywork and bonding....but....you have the separate the top hood surround at the wheel well skirt RIGHT ABOVE your upper control arms and raise the top hood surround and bond the inner skirts to the top hood surround again. HEAT will be required....and you might actually have to raise it a bit more so when you take your support away...it will settle to where you want it. I have done this several times during a restoration/paint job.
DUB
You wrote:
"The front and back of the hood seems ok."
I am needing to know if by the hood hinges...on the top hood surround area.... when the hood is CLOSED...is the hood flush AT the hood hinge area on each side????
AND...is the hood FLUSH at the top hood surround area right by where the striker pins in the hood are located???
You hood could have a bow in it....and it is possible. Depending on how it was stored and if heat got to the hood.
Doing a modification to raise the front nose section in the middle to fit the hood is possible. LOWERING it.....not so much ESPECIALLY if the hood is flush and the hinges.
You wrote:
"Is there some adjustments I can do on the fenders?"
YES...depending on how a person interprets the word.. 'adjustment'...In my world....'adjustment' is and can be bodywork and bonding....but....you have the separate the top hood surround at the wheel well skirt RIGHT ABOVE your upper control arms and raise the top hood surround and bond the inner skirts to the top hood surround again. HEAT will be required....and you might actually have to raise it a bit more so when you take your support away...it will settle to where you want it. I have done this several times during a restoration/paint job.
DUB
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 732
Likes: 150
From: AMARILLO TEXAS
I am needing to know if by the hood hinges...on the top hood surround area.... when the hood is CLOSED...is the hood flush AT the hood hinge area on each side???? YES
AND...is the hood FLUSH at the top hood surround area right by where the striker pins in the hood are located??? YES
Your hood could have a bow in it....and it is possible. Depending on how it was stored and if heat got to the hood.
This is the second hood I have tried, both hoods fit similar bowed in the middle on each side. It sounds like some serious fiberglass work needed in the upper surround. I have done some fiberglass, but not sure I am up to this. If I hire someone it sounds like an expensive repair.
Thanks for your feedback!
AND...is the hood FLUSH at the top hood surround area right by where the striker pins in the hood are located??? YES
Your hood could have a bow in it....and it is possible. Depending on how it was stored and if heat got to the hood.
This is the second hood I have tried, both hoods fit similar bowed in the middle on each side. It sounds like some serious fiberglass work needed in the upper surround. I have done some fiberglass, but not sure I am up to this. If I hire someone it sounds like an expensive repair.
Thanks for your feedback!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Without being able to 'see' what you are seeing.
I would have to see if I applied weight to the sides of the hood would the hood go flush.
I would also have to see about how the inner skirt is bonded to the underside lip of the top hood surround an see if I separated it and re-boned it back...if that additional increase in space would be an 'eye sore' and noticeable right off the bat.
IF you apply a filler to the top of the top hood surround ( to get it flush with the hood)...what this can also do is increase the height of the channel at that point in the top hood surround and possible be more noticeable.
DUB
I would have to see if I applied weight to the sides of the hood would the hood go flush.
I would also have to see about how the inner skirt is bonded to the underside lip of the top hood surround an see if I separated it and re-boned it back...if that additional increase in space would be an 'eye sore' and noticeable right off the bat.
IF you apply a filler to the top of the top hood surround ( to get it flush with the hood)...what this can also do is increase the height of the channel at that point in the top hood surround and possible be more noticeable.
DUB
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 732
Likes: 150
From: AMARILLO TEXAS
I am now thinking that I may just be better off taking one of the hoods and fiberglassing the hood to fit my side fenders. I know this will screw up the upper skin and lower bracing seam, but as long as it fits I am ok with that.
Thanks for the feedback on this issue!
Don
Thanks for the feedback on this issue!
Don
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Do as you wish.....And I hope your plan works out for you...SERIOUSLY I DO!.....BUT..... coming from a body man...that would not be the route that I would take. By cutting the understructure....you are opening up a way for a problem even if you laminate it.
I swear I would get the hood hot with a heater and put it on and set some weight on it and see if it drops down and let it cool... before I cut on anything.
DUB
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I would test it first...meaning apply weight to the hood and measure it and see if it dropped any. Then heat it up and see if that measurement changed for the better.
DUB
4th Gear
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I am here to research the exact same problem. I have a '67 327/300. I put on a 427 hood -- the cheap $600 one from Ecklers. It fits well in the front and well in the back, but bows in the center. (I have lots of pics). I hate the way it looks. I took it to a car show (and won best Corvette in Show). A Corvette specialist walked up and said: "I know what's wrong with your fender/hood shot line. There's a spacer in between your body and your frame that needs to be removed. That'll straighten that line out." I took the car to the body man who put on the 427 hood (which, btw way looks sweet, except for the body shot lines) and he said the Corvette man was CRAZY! He said that if that were the case, the shot lines between the fenders and the doors would be warped too. So I bought the expensive $1,100 427 hood from Ecklers, hoping for a better fit. EXACT SAME PROBLEM. So here I am... Does anyone know? Can there be a spacer in between the body and the frame in front, which is either there or NOT there but should be, which could impact on the shot lines between the fenders and the hood on a '67? Happy to provide pics, it they'd help... Dan
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I am here to research the exact same problem. I have a '67 327/300. I put on a 427 hood -- the cheap $600 one from Ecklers. It fits well in the front and well in the back, but bows in the center. (I have lots of pics). I hate the way it looks. I took it to a car show (and won best Corvette in Show). A Corvette specialist walked up and said: "I know what's wrong with your fender/hood shot line. There's a spacer in between your body and your frame that needs to be removed. That'll straighten that line out." I took the car to the body man who put on the 427 hood (which, btw way looks sweet, except for the body shot lines) and he said the Corvette man was CRAZY! He said that if that were the case, the shot lines between the fenders and the doors would be warped too. So I bought the expensive $1,100 427 hood from Ecklers, hoping for a better fit. EXACT SAME PROBLEM. So here I am... Does anyone know? Can there be a spacer in between the body and the frame in front, which is either there or NOT there but should be, which could impact on the shot lines between the fenders and the hood on a '67? Happy to provide pics, it they'd help... Dan
Starting your own thread and PM'ing me to the thread so people can respond instead of 'hi-jacking' this thread.
Photos would be a great help. Make sure your photo's are taken at an angle that allows me to see EXACTLY what you can see.
So.... I have to keep my comments to myself of what that "Corvette expert" told you.
DUB
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 732
Likes: 150
From: AMARILLO TEXAS
I certyainly do not mind the added discussion.
Dan,
I am on my second hood as well. I have tried heating my hood some with a propane torch and sandwitch the hood between two angles and sit for a while. No luck yet in getting the bow out of it yet. I will take4 some more pictures next time I get to the shop and mess with it.
Don
Dan,
I am on my second hood as well. I have tried heating my hood some with a propane torch and sandwitch the hood between two angles and sit for a while. No luck yet in getting the bow out of it yet. I will take4 some more pictures next time I get to the shop and mess with it.
Don
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I certyainly do not mind the added discussion.
Dan,
I am on my second hood as well. I have tried heating my hood some with a propane torch and sandwitch the hood between two angles and sit for a while. No luck yet in getting the bow out of it yet. I will take4 some more pictures next time I get to the shop and mess with it.
Don
Dan,
I am on my second hood as well. I have tried heating my hood some with a propane torch and sandwitch the hood between two angles and sit for a while. No luck yet in getting the bow out of it yet. I will take4 some more pictures next time I get to the shop and mess with it.
Don
DUB
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 732
Likes: 150
From: AMARILLO TEXAS
I know I would not use a propane torch. There is really no way to keep t the area you need to stay hot...hot. The heat can not be even distributed over the panel...versus the two torpedo kerosene heaters blowing hot air on both sides...and when it is hot...install it and add the weight QUICKLY.
DUB
DUB
I will try your method. The other problem I have is the right front corner is sticking up about a 1/4". Will the front fender need to be separated from the inner fender and readjusted and bonded?
Don
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
ALSO...how it looks where the inner skirt gets bonded to the top hood surround.
NOW...knowing that you have this 'raised fender' issue...because all I thought it was was the hood was up along the sides...the inner skirts may need to be separated and raised so you do not have to do anything to the hood....BUT...I gotta see it as if I were there.
DUB