quarter panel replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: longmont colorado
quarter panel replacement
I'm replacing rear quarter panels on my c2 with the body off.Can this be done w/o mounting the body ? My concern is with the fender mounts and are new fiberglass parts always thicker than stock? Do you thin out the back side to help the fit? ANY INFO appreciated
Tks.Larry
Tks.Larry
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I'm replacing rear quarter panels on my c2 with the body off.Can this be done w/o mounting the body ? My concern is with the fender mounts and are new fiberglass parts always thicker than stock? Do you thin out the back side to help the fit? ANY INFO appreciated
Tks.Larry
Tks.Larry
You did not specify if it is a convertible or a coupe. Either way...I my self....would NOT install the quarters with the body off.
ALSO...do not knwo if you are installing press molded panels or hand laid panels.
DUB
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 26
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From: longmont colorado
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Thanks for the reply.
I will put it this way.....if you car were in my shop...I would have it on the frame...correctly shimmed and bolted in place before I set this panel and bonded it in place.
AS for the thickness of the panel....if it is thicker than 'normal'. I would bond it on and then when I went in to fill and do my seam work..I would block it to where it needed it instead of trying to grind the backside of the panel to make it flush. WHATEVER YOU DO...If the panel is that thick....DO NOT clamp it so tight...( because you are concerned about the panel thickness) and clamp it to where you have squeezed out all of the adhesive between the new quarter and the bonding strip. THAT would be a BAD thing!!!!!!!!!!
DUB
I will put it this way.....if you car were in my shop...I would have it on the frame...correctly shimmed and bolted in place before I set this panel and bonded it in place.
AS for the thickness of the panel....if it is thicker than 'normal'. I would bond it on and then when I went in to fill and do my seam work..I would block it to where it needed it instead of trying to grind the backside of the panel to make it flush. WHATEVER YOU DO...If the panel is that thick....DO NOT clamp it so tight...( because you are concerned about the panel thickness) and clamp it to where you have squeezed out all of the adhesive between the new quarter and the bonding strip. THAT would be a BAD thing!!!!!!!!!!
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Jan 2, 2016 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: longmont colorado
thanks for the reply.
I will put it this way.....if you car were in my shop...i would have it on the frame...correctly shimmed and bolted in place before i set this panel and bonded it in place.
As for the thickness of the panel....if it is thicker than 'normal'. I would bond it on and then when i went in to fill and do my seam work..i would block it to where it needed it instead of trying to grind the backside of the panel to make it flush. Whatever you do...if the panel is that thick....do not clamp it so tight...( because you are concerned about the panel thickness) and clamp it to where you have squeezed out all of the adhesive between the new quarter and the bonding strip. That would be a bad thing!!!!!!!!!!
Dub
I will put it this way.....if you car were in my shop...i would have it on the frame...correctly shimmed and bolted in place before i set this panel and bonded it in place.
As for the thickness of the panel....if it is thicker than 'normal'. I would bond it on and then when i went in to fill and do my seam work..i would block it to where it needed it instead of trying to grind the backside of the panel to make it flush. Whatever you do...if the panel is that thick....do not clamp it so tight...( because you are concerned about the panel thickness) and clamp it to where you have squeezed out all of the adhesive between the new quarter and the bonding strip. That would be a bad thing!!!!!!!!!!
Dub
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Need to know HOW you want it to look like when painted. Black semi-gloss...or glossy...or flat...etc?
Also..I do not know where you live. Due to you have not filled your public profile ...so I do not know if you live in the United Sates or overseas. You do not ahve to be specific if you do not wan to...but in cases as telling you what product to by...it can be a waste of my time to tell you something ...only to find out you can not get it due to living in some other country where that product is not available.
DUB
Also..I do not know where you live. Due to you have not filled your public profile ...so I do not know if you live in the United Sates or overseas. You do not ahve to be specific if you do not wan to...but in cases as telling you what product to by...it can be a waste of my time to tell you something ...only to find out you can not get it due to living in some other country where that product is not available.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Jan 3, 2016 at 05:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 26
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From: longmont colorado
[QUOTE=DUB;1591243334]Need to know HOW you want it to look like when painted. Black semi-gloss...or glossy...or flat...etc?
Also..I do not know where you live. Due to you have not filled your public profile ...so I do not know if you live in the United Sates or overseas. You do not ahve to be specific if you do not wan to...but in cases as telling you what product to by...it can be a waste of my time to tell you something ...only to find out you can not get it due to living in some other country where that product is not available.
DUB[/QUOTE
SemiGloss and black
live in Colorado
Also..I do not know where you live. Due to you have not filled your public profile ...so I do not know if you live in the United Sates or overseas. You do not ahve to be specific if you do not wan to...but in cases as telling you what product to by...it can be a waste of my time to tell you something ...only to find out you can not get it due to living in some other country where that product is not available.
DUB[/QUOTE
SemiGloss and black
live in Colorado
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Do you have an air compressor??
If you don't...then you are going to have to use aerosol cans.
I like using the commercial grade of epoxy primer PPG sells which is the old designed stuff. It comes in gallons....so that would be a total waste for you. SO...you can use the DP90LF epoxy primer from PPG and the 401 hardener with it and shoot it.
Being in Colorado and now knowing your shop conditions....the surface temp is kinda important. It is best to try to get it to ambient air temp (70-85F). AND....you can use some of the DT860 or DT870 and slightly reduce this primer to get it to lay down flatter ( surface texture) than if you mix it the 2:1 ratio as suggested. Get the product information bulletin that goes with this product so you can see what you need to do with it...BECAUSE if you use the 401 hardener...it MUST induct for at least 30 minutes before you shoot it. I do not like using the 402 hardener...which is a 'mix and go' hardener. I prefer to wait.
Due to moisture and humidity and air temps...the black epoxy can slightly blush out and turn and seem to have a gray cast to it.
Perform a test to make sure before you go and paint it.
And for what it is worth...the firewall needs to be REALLY CLEAN before you spray it...depending on how nice you want it to look when completed.
DUB
If you don't...then you are going to have to use aerosol cans.
I like using the commercial grade of epoxy primer PPG sells which is the old designed stuff. It comes in gallons....so that would be a total waste for you. SO...you can use the DP90LF epoxy primer from PPG and the 401 hardener with it and shoot it.
Being in Colorado and now knowing your shop conditions....the surface temp is kinda important. It is best to try to get it to ambient air temp (70-85F). AND....you can use some of the DT860 or DT870 and slightly reduce this primer to get it to lay down flatter ( surface texture) than if you mix it the 2:1 ratio as suggested. Get the product information bulletin that goes with this product so you can see what you need to do with it...BECAUSE if you use the 401 hardener...it MUST induct for at least 30 minutes before you shoot it. I do not like using the 402 hardener...which is a 'mix and go' hardener. I prefer to wait.
Due to moisture and humidity and air temps...the black epoxy can slightly blush out and turn and seem to have a gray cast to it.
Perform a test to make sure before you go and paint it.
And for what it is worth...the firewall needs to be REALLY CLEAN before you spray it...depending on how nice you want it to look when completed.
DUB
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: longmont colorado
Do you have an air compressor??
If you don't...then you are going to have to use aerosol cans.
I like using the commercial grade of epoxy primer PPG sells which is the old designed stuff. It comes in gallons....so that would be a total waste for you. SO...you can use the DP90LF epoxy primer from PPG and the 401 hardener with it and shoot it.
Being in Colorado and now knowing your shop conditions....the surface temp is kinda important. It is best to try to get it to ambient air temp (70-85F). AND....you can use some of the DT860 or DT870 and slightly reduce this primer to get it to lay down flatter ( surface texture) than if you mix it the 2:1 ratio as suggested. Get the product information bulletin that goes with this product so you can see what you need to do with it...BECAUSE if you use the 401 hardener...it MUST induct for at least 30 minutes before you shoot it. I do not like using the 402 hardener...which is a 'mix and go' hardener. I prefer to wait.
Due to moisture and humidity and air temps...the black epoxy can slightly blush out and turn and seem to have a gray cast to it.
Perform a test to make sure before you go and paint it.
And for what it is worth...the firewall needs to be REALLY CLEAN before you spray it...depending on how nice you want it to look when completed.
DUB
If you don't...then you are going to have to use aerosol cans.
I like using the commercial grade of epoxy primer PPG sells which is the old designed stuff. It comes in gallons....so that would be a total waste for you. SO...you can use the DP90LF epoxy primer from PPG and the 401 hardener with it and shoot it.
Being in Colorado and now knowing your shop conditions....the surface temp is kinda important. It is best to try to get it to ambient air temp (70-85F). AND....you can use some of the DT860 or DT870 and slightly reduce this primer to get it to lay down flatter ( surface texture) than if you mix it the 2:1 ratio as suggested. Get the product information bulletin that goes with this product so you can see what you need to do with it...BECAUSE if you use the 401 hardener...it MUST induct for at least 30 minutes before you shoot it. I do not like using the 402 hardener...which is a 'mix and go' hardener. I prefer to wait.
Due to moisture and humidity and air temps...the black epoxy can slightly blush out and turn and seem to have a gray cast to it.
Perform a test to make sure before you go and paint it.
And for what it is worth...the firewall needs to be REALLY CLEAN before you spray it...depending on how nice you want it to look when completed.
DUB
lm I correct in thinking the DP90LF will work as the top coat
your info has been a great help,much appreciated
THANKS
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
And it can be topcoated if you choose to do so.
You can call PPG at 1-800-647-6050 and get into the phone system and ask the tech dept if you have any concerns and they may suggest something also.
ALSO..I know 'porchdog' here on the forum uses the SPI products...but I do not know if what he uses is a stand alone product. Just an option.
VERIFY ALL of this before you go out and buy products....meaning CALL PPG. Things can change without notice....so it is worth a phone call. And even ask some body guys in your town also if they use the PPG product line. People that use it all the time sometimes can give you tricks that can help you out...even though it is NOT written in the product information bulletin.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Jan 5, 2016 at 06:23 PM.