For Dub or others with experience in waterborne paint. The last time that I shot water based paint it was a Dupont product and it was a few years ago. My experience was that the final sanding before the base coat was with 600-800 grit and you really need to make sure that any scratches are gone. Is that still true with the Aquabase and Envirobase today? I am just trying to estimate how far I am away from shooting color.

Thanks,

Doc

 

YES...you are sanding in the grit grande that I use. i use 500. And i also will many times apply a sealer so the sealer will fill in any issues.

BUT then again...when I am doing my final CHECK...I am wiping the car down with my wax and grease remover and drying it and looking at the reflection in the lights in the paint booth so I can pick up any weird things that sometimes can get by. This final check...NOTHING gets by.

I will give a call to someone I know to verify NOTHING has changed with the Aquabase. NOT going to be checking up the Envirobase. Will get back with 100% confirmation tomorrow. Right now...I am at 99.75% correct. Just want to be absolutely sure.

OR...if you want to...call 1-800-647-6050 and get to the tech line and ask about the NEXA Aquabase. They may give you a number to a local rep because the main guy I called passed away recently and he was the GURU on the ICI/NEXA stuff when I had questions about any changes or his tricks he has found that work. Sometimes talking with the reps in the field will allow you to get REAL WORLD info that 'sometimes' the bulletins do not mention.

ALSO>>>They can also FAX or possibly e-nail you with the Product Information bulletins so you can read it and these papers will tell you everything you need to know about Aquabase and any products needed prior to it.

DUB

 

Thanks, I will give them a call.

Doc

 

Doc,

If you are NOT using a sealer...then sand with 600 grit ...and I would not go finer than 800 grit.

Make sure you obtain the correct/approved sealer for waterborne paint IF you plan on using it. I can get you the number if needed.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB, I am planning to use a sealer and I would welcome your advice. I was talking with my local paint store and they threw me a curve today. It turns out that they have Envirobase not Aquabase. The guy said that he thought they were the same. I showed him the PPG web site and he was amazed. That did not build a lot of confidence in his advice. In your opinion, is the Aquabase better and is it worth it to track it down?

Thanks again,

Doc

 

YES. I am a 'weird' person and I can 'say' that about myself and the lengths I will go to get what I WANT (regardless of the cost) and NOT what 'others' tell me what I should use because it is 'the same' (in their opinion).

I talked with a couple of GOOD painters that I know and also someone else today about this...and 'they' say that their is a difference. They have shot both. I have only shot the Aquabase....because I am not going to try out the Envirobase to see about it because for me...it would be a waste of time and money. Maybe one day I will when I feel like it.

Kinda funny on how 'they' did not even know until you showed them...which is what I expected because keeping Aquabase out of the mainstream market...makes it easier to push another product.
I myself would go through whatever lengths I need to go through to get it....but ..I can get it down the street. Aquabase that is.

If you DO want it...and have problems ...let me know. I know people....who can help you not settle for anything less than what you want....if your heart is set on this product.

DUB

 

The sealer for the NEXA products is P565-3145. Low VOC sealer. The guy I talked with said that he LOVES it and uses a SATA 100B-RP gun with a 1.4 nozzle/needle. Shoots it at full trigger and at 24 psi. NOW..I have not done this ..so if you do this.... TEST IT FIRST...but he said the product will go in a bit grainy but will level out SLICK and go flat/dull.

http://www.nedsautobodysupply.com/PP...49C-1_1_10.pdf



On another note....which kinda shocked me...is that I RARELY shoot paint at full trigger. I always set my fluid to about 2 to 2- 1/2 turns out. But that is just me. Because if I get some of this stuff in...I am going to test it his way (full trigger) and then my way. That way I can verify the mil thickness when I am done shooting it.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB, I will do a test as well. On another note, just when I was ready to commit to waterborne paint; I ran into a local painter with another suggestion. He has a shop and a lot of experience in custom cars. He suggested Sikkens single stage paint. He said that it will really make the red "pop" as opposed to a base coat clear coat. I asked him about durability and fade problems and he said that they are not an issue with Sikkens. Given that my car is not a daily driver, lives indoors, and I am getting old, that got my interest. He offered to order up some rally red and shoot a test panel for me. Do you have any opinions on today's single stage paints?

Thanks,

Doc

 

I look at it like this. IF the car is painted in a single stage paint...so NO clear is applied. THEN...they is no type of 'buffer zone' for the paint when it comes to scuffs and little things that can happen. AND...when the car is being detailed and buffed...the actual color will come off when doing so.

I am aware of and have shot Sikkens and I have nothing bad to say about it...it is just different than what I shoot. And just becasue it is Sikkens 'red' single stage means nothing at all.

I DO DISAGREE with his views that the single stage red will POP more than a basecoat /clearcoat. THAT is a bunch of....crap.

I could shoot up a test panel of single stage and then a BC/CC one and I can create DEPTH with the clearcoat that the single stage will not have.

A custom shop??? I wonder if he also paints a single stage metallic??? Not knocking him at all. To each his/her own as I always say. We all have the right to do what we want.... and get good at what we do... and use products that allow us to do just that.

I know that there is more than one way to do something.....but for the life of me...The only place I would shoot a single stage ( solid or metallic) is on something I would not care about...such as my work truck. Apply the single stage white and move on with it. Single stage paint has its place....and I KNOW some still think that it needs to be put on the cars that ONLY had that back in the day. Like I wrote...to each his/her own.

I have done so many custom paint jobs ( candies, metalflakes , graphics, flames and airbrushing, etc)...that getting used to using clearcoat has become second nature and I would not go back to the type of paint used BEFORE the basecoat/clearcoat paints came out.

I am NOT trying to force feed you what I think...so take the time to make decision on what you want. And just to clarify...blending in a basecoat/clearcoat paint is NOT that hard to do. Just in case someone wants to say that blending in a single stage is easier than basecoat....it still requires the basic same process to hide the line or edge where the paint stops. UNLESS it is single stage lacquer.

DUB

 

Thanks as always DUB, I think I will stick with the original plan. The guy that was going to paint the car in the first place likes Envirobase. From what I hear, there is nothing wrong with that and it is what he is used to shooting. I will do a test panel for the sealer and for the paint.

Thanks,

Doc

 

NOT a problem at all. I am quite sure you will get it the way you want it and if your painter knows the Envirobase...then go with that.

Actually shooting a test panel from beginning to end so you can see what your car will look like it ONE of the best things you can do to make sure you are HAPPY with your decision.

DUB