does the weatherstripping need to be in place to get the gap? if so,any tricks to hold rubber in place [not having any luck with tape] I want to remove the weatherstrip after door gap is correct to allow for painting jamb.

 

NOT knowing the YEAR you are talking about.....and not knowing what gap you are referring to. I am blind on what to tell you.

Weatherstripping does not need to be on to do a door gap (I generally do not ahve it on...but it depends)...but...I have no idea on what you are doing.

I NEED photos.

DUB

 

Working on 66 coupe,The gap is at the door/ body.Just got the body mounted and read someplace about weatherstripping had to be in place,which would need to be removed at painting and that seemed like duplicating my steps.Tks.

 

Thanks ...always need to know the year.

That is not a good answer....Becasue the door HAS TO meet and fit with the body. WHERE??? At the hinge post area??? Across the top at the roof line???? OR the rear quarter panel?????...Or the entire door itself???

Thew only way I can respond to this is this. When I do Corvettes I do not care if the weatherstrip is installed or not. I set the door to where it needs to be. I CAREFULLY CHECK the solid aluminum rivets that are used to hold the steel inner structure of the door to the fiberglass shell. IF these rivets are loose and beginning to eat away at the fiberglass AROUND the rivets thus allowing the door SHELL to have movement. WHICH IS BAD!!!!! I correct this problem BEFORE I do anything about the door gap and panels being flush I get it how I want it and paint the car.

IF the steel inner structure of your door is NOT secured to the fiberglass inner and outer panel...then it can move....and DEPENDING on the weatherstrip you buy...ad how dense it is CAN cause the door to be COMPLETELY DIFFERENT than when it was adjusted and set with NO weatherstrips on it.

And I personally/professionally DO NOT set a door to what the weatherstrips cause it to do.....becasue in time...the weatherstrips will settle can compress....or I modify the weatherstrips....or make sure that I am using the softest ones possible.

And YES....there are several areas where you may find that you have to duplicate steps....just no way around it. OFF, ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON.

DUB

 

good info. thinking I would attempt gap at entire door,when time comes.installing fnt.clip will be my next step,maybe in next 30-45 days Tks. again

 

forgot to ask-I found some body repair at rear. Can VPA be applied over existing fill or does it need removed. Tks,Larry

 

Without a photo...I can not answer that with 100% certainty.. The only filler...so-to-speak... that I apply VPA on is the factory adhesive that is used to bond the panels at the bonding seams. I do not put VPA on ANYBODIES PREVIOUS body filler.

Without seeing the repair...it is still subjective. I need to see it.

DUB