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I painted my first car yesterday after almost 2 years of prep and it went pretty well. All except I noticed this run in the clear coat and am not sure how to take care of it. I used Nason base and Nason 258-0 clear coat, I have 3 coats of clear on the car as it sits now. Asking for idea's on how to get rid of this run. Can I sand it and re-shoot the clear or sand and polish it out later, I have no idea what a proper method would be. Any help would be greatly appreciated .
first off it will take the sag much longer to cure. mess with it too much and it will pull a chunk out. i set them in the sun for a few days. i use 2 in tape. get a small block and use 320 wet to block through the tape. you may need to reapply the tape . once you get through it you can switch to 600 then on to finish work. the point is you want to only cut the sag , not the surrounding area . i have used this method for many years and it has served me well ..
the area just above the sag is very thin . this is where you will usually burn through. the hope is the tape will protect it until the sag is leveled off a little . i have a collection of small wooden blocks to use in different areas . take your time and try to protect the surrounding area .
Having 3 coats of clear may be working for you. I guess that this run began on the third coat....so you have two good coats under it.
What 'porchdog' wrote is what I also do to get runs out. the main thing is to take you time and be patient.
I would comment with a trick I use with a razor blade that saves on wet sanding time ...but I won't....because if you are really careful you can really screw stuff up. And my method with a razor has masking tape applied to it... so it gets a good majority of the run out.
Thanks Dub, I don't mind the extra time it will take to sand it out. Razor blades make me nervous.
Taking you time is what you should do and ONLY do what you are comfortable with doing.
SO do not beat yourself up ...just in case you are...DON"T!
I 'learned' the razor blade method decades ago when I started shooting a different type of clear and when I walked out of the booth....the car was perfect...but the clear would 'walk' for hours after me shooting it...and I had what you had and MUCH WORSE all over the car until I got the clear and my gun dialed in.
Back then..at my shop we called runs like what you have 'signatures'. And in some of those HORRIFIC paint jobs that had SO MANY runs in them...we began calling them the "Declaration of Independence" due to all of the SIGNATURES I put in it. I can laugh now...but I still remember that it was ROUGH. But the GOOD PART...once I got the gun and clear 'dialed in'...I could lay it out really slick....always taking it to the EDGE of just wanting to begin to run...but not running.
it didn't go so well, I sanded through the clear coat in a couple of spots so I guess my only option now is to re-shoot the door. Can I get away with just reshooting the clear or should I re-shoot the base too?
I can only ASSUME from you photo that it appears to be painted black....with no pearls or metallics in it.
If it is s solid black....you can pull it out in the sun and take your water hose and have running water sheet over where you painted it and sanded through the clear and see if you can see where you broke through the clear. You can also use good wax and grease remover and wet it out...quickly check it and then DRY the wax and grease remover off the panel. DO NOT let the wax and grease remover dry by itself. Make sure you dry it off.
Because you have FRESH paint here...and the fact that you broke through the clear layer. IF you go and apply basecoat again to blend it and hide the sand though area....the solvents can possible attack the edge of the exposed clear and cause it to lift or swell. SO...if you do base it...do not get it super wet...which also depends greatly on the paint system and the grade of reducer/thinner you used in the basecoat. AND if you are thinking to mix up some more paint and use a faster grade of reducer...once again...depending on the paint system...using a faster grade of reducer that allow the base to flash off faster can also possible cause the black paint to blush and not match because what you used initially allowed the black basecoat to stay wetter longer...thus allowing any moisture in the paint to get out before the basecoat totally flashed off.
AND if you painted the car during good weather...do not paint it in any serve conditions that are not like what you painted it in....especially if you are painting in an environment that you are at the mercy of the weather and NOT being in a controlled paint booth where you can set temperatures to shoot at.
Dub, would it be better to scuff and re base and clear the whole panel or should I just apply base to the break through area?
Prep the ENTIRE panel....even though you may not cover the entire panel in base color...you need to apply the clear all the way to the edge of the panel so you do not have a 'ghost' line where the clear may show up.....even though the clear is really fresh....I would clear the entire panel...and that does NOT mean that the ends of this panel where it meets with an adjacent panel that you have to re-apply 3 coats of clear again. BECAUSE this might cause for an issue due to the adjacent panel ONLY has 3 coats of clear on it...but now this repaired panel has 6 coats of clear...and on some colors it can change everything in regards to a match.
I would apply a coat of clear over my blend area....then the next coat it again but go out a bit further...and then the last coat I would do the entire panel.....OR..,.on the second coat...I would coat the entire panel but NOT soak it down. I would get a good light wet coat.....then coat it again for the third coat.
This way...you have enough clear at the edges to you know you should not have any issues in sanding and buffing.
JUST MAKE SURE that where you sanded out these runs...you REALLY GOT them all the way out BEFORE you paint this. What MAY appear to be perfect..once you apply paint or clear and look along the side angle shows up ripples or distortion...do not be fooled. Just 'saying'.
04-24-2016, 08:50 AM
Help with this run
Taking you time is what you should do and ONLY do what you are comfortable with doing. 