Adhesive recommendation
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 273
From: Collierville Tennessee
Adhesive recommendation
I am replacing the inner/outer rockers and the rusted out rocker steel in my 58 - see pictures.
I have seen several products mentioned, and I am asking if someone can recommend an adhesive that has at least a 30 minute "work" time and that can be used to glue fiberglass to fiberglass and fiberglass to steel. I plan to rivet the steel to the fiberglass, but I would like to glue it. I am working by myself, so I need a little extra work time to install this. Thanks in advance for your suggestions/help.
Ricky
I have seen several products mentioned, and I am asking if someone can recommend an adhesive that has at least a 30 minute "work" time and that can be used to glue fiberglass to fiberglass and fiberglass to steel. I plan to rivet the steel to the fiberglass, but I would like to glue it. I am working by myself, so I need a little extra work time to install this. Thanks in advance for your suggestions/help.
Ricky
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
Ricky,
I would contact SEM.....or LORD FUSOR.
From what I can see from your photos...you are sectioning in a panel. And the seams where you are going to join in the new panel to the original body. I know I would add a bonding strip. And then use Vette panel adhesive to get that seam filled in and shaped correctly....and NOT rely on the adhesive you used to bond the fiberglas to steel.
These new age adhesives work great...but more times than not...they are applied on the underside of a panel where it is not going to be seen. THUS....it will not get any solvents from primer on it and cause it to swell....thus effecting a seam that is seen and painted on top of.
And not that you asked...but I would just suggest that when you go to do this...I know if you were working for me and doing this....I would tell you to get the car back on the ground. Because I would not want a problem that when it did go back on the ground the body was actually flexing and when it was set back down on the ground it effected what was just done when it was being supported. Such as bad buckle in the rocker area.
The good thing about me giving advice and suggestion is that if they are or are not followed...I do not have to worry about having to do something all over again when someone chooses to do it their way which is fine by me. Because....I have had to do things all over again because I did not do something that I should have done. I have paid my dues from the 'school of hard knocks'...and I assume NOTHING any more.
DUB
I would contact SEM.....or LORD FUSOR.
From what I can see from your photos...you are sectioning in a panel. And the seams where you are going to join in the new panel to the original body. I know I would add a bonding strip. And then use Vette panel adhesive to get that seam filled in and shaped correctly....and NOT rely on the adhesive you used to bond the fiberglas to steel.
These new age adhesives work great...but more times than not...they are applied on the underside of a panel where it is not going to be seen. THUS....it will not get any solvents from primer on it and cause it to swell....thus effecting a seam that is seen and painted on top of.
And not that you asked...but I would just suggest that when you go to do this...I know if you were working for me and doing this....I would tell you to get the car back on the ground. Because I would not want a problem that when it did go back on the ground the body was actually flexing and when it was set back down on the ground it effected what was just done when it was being supported. Such as bad buckle in the rocker area.
The good thing about me giving advice and suggestion is that if they are or are not followed...I do not have to worry about having to do something all over again when someone chooses to do it their way which is fine by me. Because....I have had to do things all over again because I did not do something that I should have done. I have paid my dues from the 'school of hard knocks'...and I assume NOTHING any more.
DUB
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 273
From: Collierville Tennessee
DUB,
Thanks for your advice. I have used SEM 39747 on another project some time ago. I pulled the spec sheet earlier this evening and it looks like it will work just fine - and I still have the manual mixing gun! My plan is put the rear wheel back on before I mock up the inner fiberglass rocker and the steel rocker. I will then glue up the inner rocker/steel rocker to the door sill. I will not put the outer rocker on until I have the car bolted back to the frame and installed the door. Removing the old parts was more involved (and slow) than I had hoped.
Ricky
Thanks for your advice. I have used SEM 39747 on another project some time ago. I pulled the spec sheet earlier this evening and it looks like it will work just fine - and I still have the manual mixing gun! My plan is put the rear wheel back on before I mock up the inner fiberglass rocker and the steel rocker. I will then glue up the inner rocker/steel rocker to the door sill. I will not put the outer rocker on until I have the car bolted back to the frame and installed the door. Removing the old parts was more involved (and slow) than I had hoped.
Ricky
