I figured I should post something here as am working on figuring out how far down the rabbit hole I personally want to go with paint and body work. Side note: If you are a reasonable capable body guy in the Omaha area let me know.

My thread can be located under the C3 section.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-general/3773807-john-s-1968-convertible-restoration.html

its going to need fiberglass repair in a few places. But the first job is undoing what was done previously. I want to make sure I'm starting on a solid foundation.

I started sanding with 220, a small primed area to see what's there.




So what am I looking at? Two layers of blue paint? You can definitely tell somebody has been here before with the varying consistency of sanding. This all has to go to ensure a solid foundation. Am I right?

 

heat gun and razor blade time. all of that needs to come off.

 

I kind of figured that's how I was going to have to approach it. But my thoughts are probably sand off this crappy primer then heat gun razorblade the following layers. sounds like some work.

 

Here's some picture of overall what I'm dealing with. I'm still considering using aircraft stripper. Start in small area to get a feel for it and get moving.

 

I assume what I'm seeing here is bare fiberglass some newer fiberglass resin for a repair and possibly VPA to fill the rest of it?

Is there a way to tell the difference between an appropriate VPA and just regular body feeling that some goob shouldn't have used?

 

I can tell you that that light pink looking 'bondo' is NOT Vette Panel Adhesive (VPA)

YES..from what I can see it does look like someone applied more mat and resin for some type of repair.

DO NOT be surprised if in the future I HIGHLY recommend that you dig into it rather well to verify that who ever did it...applied the resin correctly. Leaving body work that someone else did is taking a big chance that it actually is correct....regardless if it has been on the car for 20 years (for example).

IF you are planning on using the Aircraft Stripper from Klean-Strip..and you have never used it before ON FIBERGLASS...and you have searched the Corvette Forum and have not found where it has been written out how to correctly use it...PM me and I will be glad to give you a verbal tutorial over the phone.

DUB

 

thank you for the Reply. I was able to call you about a month or so ago. You laid out pretty well how to work with the aircraft stripper appropriately. I'll still look on the form to find a step-by-step.

As far as the bad body work, that's why we're doing this in the first place is it haha. I don't really trust with somebody else did and while I'm redoing it might as well redo it all. I still may be they pay someone to do it guy. But I'd at least like to know what I'm looking at and what to expect so I'm as knowledgeable as possible when working with the body guy.

 

Glad that you took the time to call me and hopefully what I mentioned to you about the stripper is still in your memory. IF NOT...feel free to call again.

As for your body work...IF you plan on doing it yourself..all you have to to do is ask for help if you need it.

DUB

 

Since it seems I have Bondo on my car. I wonder does aircraft stripper take that stuff down or is that a sanding only situation?

 

It is pointless to attempt to use Aircraft Stripper to soften 'bondo' and get it to fall out. It will do it but...it will take so long..as like I wrote...it is pointless.

Knowing that if there is 'bondo' in your car.,..grinding it out is what I would do because you know you are going to have to repair it again anyway.

SO...sanding and grinding it the best method.

DUB

 

Hahaha called a shop in the Omaha area that said it could do fiberglass today. I asked them what their General how early labor cost was. The guy want to know part of my car and just threw a $125.00 an hour at me. Clearly the search continues.

 

Red Alert. Wife not excited I'm using aircraft stripper. She thinks I'll get cancer from it. (I won't). What options does that leave me? sandpaper and razorblades and paying a guy right?

Also I found more Bondo.

 

Use the aircraft stripper and set up a tent in the backyard to live in for an indeterminate period. The dust from sanding is not the best for you to breathe and the "dog mask" filters are not 100%.

 

I'll probably end up sanding and taking my chances with a mask.

General sanding thoughts processes?

Can I use 80 on a long foam sanding block to follow body contours till I get close to the SMC? then 120? For more intricate areas using sand paper held by hand is acceptable?

Other than avoiding edges how do you keep yourself from rounding out angled pieces near wheel wells and door jambs?

 

i stopped using stripper in the late 70's. i much prefer a razor blade and heat gun . no mess or fumes . once you get the hang of it you can peel it in a couple of weekends . i now blast everything. sanding it just way too much work .

 

They do sell the correct gloves that make it so you do not get any on you. And as for the fumes.... a respirator will take care of that or make sure you are in a well ventilated area...which is why most people complain about the smell...they are not in a well ventilated area....even though... I DO have to admit...if you get a whiff of it...it will let you know you just smelled it.

By correctly sanding it. Keeping your sanding block flat against flat surfaces and where they begin to make contours..that is when you have to become inventive. Sections of radiator hoses and so on can help.

I understand that you can not use chemical...just be AWARE of the dusts that get on your clothes do not get dragged into your house...that is worse than the fumes off the chemical stripper.

By sanding your car down just also be aware that it will greatly increase your time and effort needed. Not saying that is a bad thing...just letting you know that you will soon find muscles that you never knew you had. AND...do not be surprised that you may come across areas of your car that attempting to sand the paint off and out of the tight 'nooks and crannies'...you will wish you can chemically strip it or use a media blaster to get those areas clean....because those areas are very important and should not be overlooked.

And if you think that using rough steel wool and automotive grade lacquer thinner is a better method...honestly the fumes off of it will give you a headache like none you have ever experienced...especially if you are using it in a confined space with improper ventilation. And the mixture of solvents that make up 'lacquer thinner' are wickedly bad for you also IF you abuse it. Actually...just about EVERY chemical product or material that is used in the paint and body industry is hazardous to humans in one way shape,form or another.

I hope your sanding process goes well and take your time and work up to it. And any other bit of advice I can give you is to FOCUS on on an area and get it completed ...then move to the next area.

I use razor blades as much as I can to get off as much as I can quickly IF the paint will allow it.

DUB

 

I found a spot on the passenger side quarter that would let me use a razorblade. I didn't have a heat gun but the primer was loose.



I worked on it towards the back where I knew a repair was.





My novice assessment? From the top layer down: I've got crappy primer.
Then the black is some sort of sealer.
Then some white filler (probably Bondo)
Then original blue paint (if it's there)
Then red oxide primer (if it's there)
Then fiber glass.

I'll get a heat gun to speed the process and make sure I don't gouge the fiberglass. But there's definitely some work to be done and done right this time.

Razorblade method is theraputic and kinda still makes me feel like I'm making progress. Even if it is a sliver at a time.

 

the paint will likely not release over filler. just go around those spots. every panel will go faster as you get the hang of it .

 

I don't necessarily like everything that I'm finding under here. But that I'm sure as the cost of doing business. I'm finding on the back tail piece a lot of Bondo or some sort of filler to build up the area. I guess the thing to always consider is what's the cost to repair panel verse the cost to replace a panel.



Rear lip. Pass side

 

YES...The cost of buying new panel...getting it shipped in...then installing it...VERSUS...repairing what is wrong with that specific panel is an ongoing battle I encounter often encounter

THEN...what also has to be taken into consideration is the overall integrity of the panel when it does get repaired. Because I HAVE TO warranty my work. So.. I have to worry about potential cracks and problems that I would have to deal with in the future.

Depending on where the damage is located ...often times will dictate to me if I need to replace a panel or repair it.

And for what it is worth. IF you go and want to remove the clips that were used to hold your rear vents in your upper body panel....be careful becasue they can grab well enough and break the ear off the fiberglas and that will need to be repaired. I take them off...but I am careful when doing this.

DUB