Dub, I'm confused.My door gaps are a 1/16" to 3/32" to wide. Do I use Evercoat 994 or 870 to narrow the gaps? Thanks

 

The 994 (which has been recently discontinued) is an adhesive only.'

So...the Vette Panel Adhesive is what I use.

Do not build out on your door edge unless you have ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER option. I always build on the fenders and quarters to get my door gaps correct. On some cars....and it is rare that it happens where someone ground on the edge so much that they ground the outer skin all the way down to the edge of the metal inner structure. When that occurs...the procedure completely changes.

Obviously. the VPA can be used to repair some minor issues on the edges of the door if needed ...but without knowing what year you are working on...thew VPA may not be the correct product initially on the door skin.

This is due to the composite that GM used for the doors changed....so a door skin on a 1969 is not the same composite as that of a door skin on a 1982.

Also keep this in mind...and many member's who I talk with about this have the 'light bulb come on' in their head and they say. "You know...that makes a lot of sense."

When you are setting your gaps to a specific width. I do the same thing.,.,.but what I have working for me is I have a process of applying gelcoat or polyester primer or both...along with a sealer and basecoat and clearcoat. So I know how much material I am applying on the car. Thus...I am also very conscience and aware when I am apply product to the edges of panels so I know that if my gaps seem to be a bit wide when it is in the body stage...but when it is all painted and done..the gaps are perfect because I have tested and know how many mils of product I am applying to the car.

So..do not be surprised that if you are applying a lot more product than what GM applied and then find out your gaps seem to be a tad bit too close.....because...when I have to paint a tri-stage / candy job..I am figuring in a the excessive amount of clear I am applying that will close up headlight gaps and can actually cause the paint to scrub off when the headlgith go up due to the excessive amount of paint/clear that was applied.

SO...shoot a test panel and find out....or don't... and find out if you taking that chance was worth it or not. Not knowing what you are using it is hard to tell if what I just wrote applies.

DUB

 

Thanks Dub

 

I assume what I wrote in my last post made sense.

DUB

 

Why would you want to narrow a door gap that is 1/16"? I shoot for around .120" (about 1/8")

 

edtekk wrote "a 1/16" to 3/32" to wide", but he meant to write "a 1/16" to 3/32" too wide".
The gaps were not 1/16".

 

Not that this matters because people are going to do what they want to do....so...

I shoot for some gaps (mainly the headlight doors on a 1968-1982) to be at or slightly above 1/8".....but the rest of the gaps they are wider and I favor more towards 3/16" if not slightly under that.

And those measurements are when the car is painted an assembled....so when I am doing the bodywork....the gaps are actually wider and when I gelcoat,prime or whatever...I know that when I am done how much I am adding to these edges to close up the gaps.

The gaps width can change depending on what the car is having done to it...in regards to the type of paint being applied. Becasue if the car is being painted in candy apple with metal flakes...those gaps better be wider than what I wrote due to the film build of all the paint that will be applied in doing paint job like that...will definitely close in the gaps.

DUB

 

Great info DUB! What would you try to get your hood gaps at for a 71? Do you build up the hood or the fenders/nose if needed?

 

Dub is right on
Try to add to the main body vs the door/hood/trunk.

If I have to build up - I build up to the hood, door or trunk
Why
If you open the door/hood or trunk - you can look at the thickness of the panel from a side view and you can tell if it has been added to.....

 

Makes sense. I actually have two hoods that I need to fit. The factory hood which likely doesn't need much but I haven't tried it on yet and, an aftermarket L88 style hood that I plan to use with my current engine combo. I plan to fit and paint both hoods so I can easily go back to factory if and when I get the numbers matching 454 rebuild and installed. I assume the thing to do would be fit the factory hood and then build out the L88 hood to match? The L88 hood seams to be a bit small and need to have material added to the sides to close the gaps.

 

Your assumption is correct. I would get the factory hood to perfection....THAN...deal with the aftermarket hood.

And not that this matters... BUT it can happen because I have seen it first hand.

I have painted and fitted two different types of hoods for Corvettes several times and they were done for the same reason you have thought of.

BUT...due to how long the car was driven and put out in the sun and with the custom aftermarket hood on it and if teh owner stayed on top of it in regards to applying polish When the original hood was put on it....it did not match any longer.....BUT it obviously matched due to being painted the same day as the aftermarket hood.

SO...fading can occur. And obviously this has to do with the color and the pigments/toners in it ad how the color can either fade darker or lighter.

Not saying it will happen all the time...but it can happen.

DUB

 

Here are a few pictures of the back taping and some VPA which as Dub mentioned had to go on both the front clip and door to align things properly. All tutored with Dub since I am a novice!
RVZIO






You get the idea.................................... ..

 

VERY nice!

 

The look of the glitter can depend on how thick was laid the last base coat.

 

I think you posted this on a the wrong thread due to it makes no sense here.

DUB