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This post is just for posterity's sake (in case anybody else is in the same boat I was...). I've been working on this '68 for over 2 years. I'm a real DIY guy, so I wanted to do absolutely everything myself - including the front clip swap (it had a '74 nose), all the body work and the paint. I'll just share my findings from the actual painting process here. The plan
I have a three car garage space (assuming I move everything else out...), so I elected to paint it in pieces all at once. The reason for doing it in pieces is that you can get the absolute best finish that way. No doing the jambs separate and having to mask and shoot multiple times - which means no possibility of lines or screwing up the multiple masks. By doing all the pieces at once, you get the best chance of having everything match (no multiple mixes or gun set-ups). There are two downsides. First, all fitment has to be done beforehand (meaning I disassembled and reassembled the car several times to get fittings and gaps set). Second, final assembly is going to be nerve-wracking with all the pretty paint. The booth
The booth took four full days to build. I hung three more fluorescent fixtures (where the garage doors go when raised) and mounted three on quickie PVC stands to shine on the lower parts. This gave me 7 two-bulb fixtures overhead and three single bulb fixtures at waist-level. For me, this was enough light. But you can never have too much.
For air flow, I took out the normal door at the rear of the garage and replaced it with an MDF board in which I had mounted two fans in plenums. I used one fan I already had and another 18" fan with shutters I bought off Amazon for about $140. I put proper paint booth filters on both since I'd read that cheap HVAC filters can allow fibers into the air. These only come in packs of 20 (meaning I still have 18...) and were about $80. I went with positive booth pressure (meaning fans blowing into the booth). On the outlet side, I again used proper paint booth outlet filters to keep the overspray contained. These only come 50 to a pack (grrr) and were also about $80. I raised both garage doors 18" and put 5 filters spaced along the floor, then sealed up the rest with cardboard. The plastic on the walls was taped around the filters and all the way to the floor (sealing the garage doors and attendant gaps outside the booth).
For the booth itself, I used a PVC frame suspended from the ceiling. I draped plastic over it, securing it along all PVC rails. I sealed up all the seams and sealed it to the floor. The key to this is lots of duct tape. Lots. Once inside for actual painting, I sealed up the seam I'd left for entry. Also, while I was at it, I sealed up the door into the house with tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no smell of paint at all inside the house while painting. Also (I suppose thanks to the outlet filters) the smell wasn't too bad even right outside the garage.
I ran small chain through the plastic (taping around it) up to hooks set in the ceiling to suspend all the parts that needed paint. This also allowed me to paint both sides at once. One painting session. One gun clean up. Nothing setting on the floor. The process
I had only done a little painting (just a Honda Odyssey ATV frame and some smaller body pieces) in the past, so this was basically a whole new thing for me. I used PPG Global base and PPG Deltron 4000 clear shot through a Sagola 4600 gun with a 1.3 tip. Doing it in pieces took a lot more paint than I expected. I used every last drop of 3 quarts of base for 2 coats (although I did waste some) and 1.5 gallons of clear for three coats. It took a LOT longer than I expected (like every other step of the process...). I was out there for six hours spraying. Part of the reason for taking so long is outlined below. The base went on great. In fact, I'd say you'd have to have things pretty far out of whack (or shoddy equipment) to screw up the base too bad. The clear went on well (except for the problem outlined below). But the clear makes an incredibly sticky mess. The floor got so sticky I was having to be careful about not stepping on light cords because I couldn't get them off my shoe - meaning I was afraid I'd knock the lights into the parts.
Of course, use proper protection. I used a whole-body Tyvek suit, a head sock, multiple pairs of goggles (kept getting cloudy), many pairs of gloves, and a proper respirator with a prefilter I changed three times. Key learnings
First problem: I could have used more air flow. I thought I had decent cfm from my inlet fans, but the filters really choked it down. I had to continually wait for the air to clear. Especially toward the end when I started needing to wait twice per cup of paint just to be able to see. The reason it got worse was problem two: the outlet filters plugged up. After the base, I couldn't see through them. I carefully knocked them clear (after the base was set), but the clear coat was so sticky that it just gummed them up. I had them sealed into the booth and couldn't replace them. I needed more air flow, more outlet filters and (since I was shooting over two gallons of material all at once) to make them replaceable. Ideally, a bigger inlet fan and 6-7 replaceable outlet filters.
Problem three: overspray. This is actually a side-effect of problem two. Since the air wasn't moving through, the clear in the air just settled back onto everything on my final coat. Below the midpoint of the car body (where the body faces downward) the clear is gorgeous. Above that, it is dull from overspray.
Problem four: dirt. I spent hours and hours cleaning the car and the booth, but had two issues. First, a floor seal let go partway through (which I didn't notice until I was almost done), allowing dust into the booth. Second, my masking in the rear vents and gas filler hole let go under the air pressure, meaning all the dirt in there made it into the air... and into the paint.
I was really upset when I finished and the paint looked like crap from overspray and dust. In fact, I wanted to just chuck the whole thing in frustration. But the next day (yesterday), I took one of the headlight doors which looked terrible and wet sanded, compounded, and polished it. It looks absolutely perfect. That Deltron buffs incredibly well. I'm using 800 grit on the worst parts. Then the whole car is getting 1000 wet, 1500 wet (lightly), 3000 wet, compound and polish. After a few hours on the hood surround, I think it's going to turn out very well. I screwed it up, but it's fixable so I'm happy.
I'll put a few pictures of the set up in the next post. Overall, I'd say I'll probably never do this again. It was exactly one year ago this week when I started the body work. Vacation time, every weekend and most nights. Then an entire week off work to build the booth and do the painting. Now another couple months of nights and weekends for wet sanding and assembly. I'd like to say it saved me huge money, but I still have almost $3000 in materials (body work stuff, primer, paint - the clear alone is $450 a gallon - and sandpaper). Plus another $1000 in equipment (which I don't really include in the cost). Plus another $500 for the booth. So it was expensive and really slow.
But it's been a lifelong goal to do a complete restoration by myself and I'm nearly done. So I'm glad I did it just for the experience.
Last edited by E.Murray; Sep 11, 2017 at 12:22 PM.
A couple pictures to show the color. It's the original 983 British Green (but, obviously, in a urethane base/clear). I had never seen the color and completely love it. I was surprised how modern it looks with the metal flake and black/green flop.
This is your thread and how you did it. I might add few things that may help others.
Originally Posted by E.Murray
This post is just for posterity's sake (in case anybody else is in the same boat I was...). I've been working on this '68 for over 2 years. I'm a real DIY guy, so I wanted to do absolutely everything myself - including the front clip swap (it had a '74 nose), all the body work and the paint. I'll just share my findings from the actual painting process here.
I CAN APPRECIATE a person like yourself willing to do it all. Not everyone can do this due to not having a place to do it or the time or has the desire to do it..so it is great that oyu did it. You should be really proud of yourself!
Originally Posted by E.Murray
The plan
I have a three car garage space (assuming I move everything else out...), so I elected to paint it in pieces all at once. The reason for doing it in pieces is that you can get the absolute best finish that way. No doing the jambs separate and having to mask and shoot multiple times - which means no possibility of lines or screwing up the multiple masks. By doing all the pieces at once, you get the best chance of having everything match (no multiple mixes or gun set-ups). There are two downsides. First, all fitment has to be done beforehand (meaning I disassembled and reassembled the car several times to get fittings and gaps set). Second, final assembly is going to be nerve-wracking with all the pretty paint.
All of the parts painted the same day and I install and remove parts during the paint job temporary to make sure the metallics/pearls all match...which can make painting the car an all day scenario if a person is wanting it done correctly...in my opinion.
Lots of masking tape to edges of panels so no damage occurs when the clear has had enough time to cure well and not be impressionable.
Originally Posted by E.Murray
The booth
The booth took four full days to build. I hung three more fluorescent fixtures (where the garage doors go when raised) and mounted three on quickie PVC stands to shine on the lower parts. This gave me 7 two-bulb fixtures overhead and three single bulb fixtures at waist-level. For me, this was enough light. But you can never have too much.
For air flow, I took out the normal door at the rear of the garage and replaced it with an MDF board in which I had mounted two fans in plenums. I used one fan I already had and another 18" fan with shutters I bought off Amazon for about $140. I put proper paint booth filters on both since I'd read that cheap HVAC filters can allow fibers into the air. These only come in packs of 20 (meaning I still have 18...) and were about $80. I went with positive booth pressure (meaning fans blowing into the booth). On the outlet side, I again used proper paint booth outlet filters to keep the overspray contained. These only come 50 to a pack (grrr) and were also about $80. I raised both garage doors 18" and put 5 filters spaced along the floor, then sealed up the rest with cardboard. The plastic on the walls was taped around the filters and all the way to the floor (sealing the garage doors and attendant gaps outside the booth).
For the booth itself, I used a PVC frame suspended from the ceiling. I draped plastic over it, securing it along all PVC rails. I sealed up all the seams and sealed it to the floor. The key to this is lots of duct tape. Lots. Once inside for actual painting, I sealed up the seam I'd left for entry. Also, while I was at it, I sealed up the door into the house with tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no smell of paint at all inside the house while painting. Also (I suppose thanks to the outlet filters) the smell wasn't too bad even right outside the garage.
I ran small chain through the plastic (taping around it) up to hooks set in the ceiling to suspend all the parts that needed paint. This also allowed me to paint both sides at once. One painting session. One gun clean up. Nothing setting on the floor.
I can appreciate your willingness to spare no expense on those components that are so important when painting a car...regarding the correct filters. No need to go cheap when a person gets to this stage...once again...in my opinion.
Originally Posted by E.Murray
The process
I had only done a little painting (just a Honda Odyssey ATV frame and some smaller body pieces) in the past, so this was basically a whole new thing for me. I used PPG Global base and PPG Deltron 4000 clear shot through a Sagola 4600 gun with a 1.3 tip. Doing it in pieces took a lot more paint than I expected. I used every last drop of 3 quarts of base for 2 coats (although I did waste some) and 1.5 gallons of clear for three coats. It took a LOT longer than I expected (like every other step of the process...). I was out there for six hours spraying. Part of the reason for taking so long is outlined below. The base went on great. In fact, I'd say you'd have to have things pretty far out of whack (or shoddy equipment) to screw up the base too bad. The clear went on well (except for the problem outlined below). But the clear makes an incredibly sticky mess. The floor got so sticky I was having to be careful about not stepping on light cords because I couldn't get them off my shoe - meaning I was afraid I'd knock the lights into the parts.
Of course, use proper protection. I used a whole-body Tyvek suit, a head sock, multiple pairs of goggles (kept getting cloudy), many pairs of gloves, and a proper respirator with a prefilter I changed three times.
Sounds like you had a lot of fun doing it and it came out well. All goes well until it is time to apply the clear...and I can say that when I am clearing a Corvette in my approved booth....I have to change out the some of the exhaust filters before the clearing stage of the paint job or after the first coat of clear has been applied and the booth is free of overspray fog due to the new current exhaust filters have to pass the EPA 6H ruling and they can get plugged up fast. So..when I am feeling that I am painting in a foggy environment because the overspray fog is lingering and not gettign out as fast as I like it to....and that is even with my HVLP gravity feed gun...I change out the filters when the booth goes clean so NO overspray mist gets to the outside.
6 hours sounds about right...as I wrote above...you should feel proud.
Originally Posted by E.Murray
Key learnings
First problem: I could have used more air flow. I thought I had decent cfm from my inlet fans, but the filters really choked it down. I had to continually wait for the air to clear. Especially toward the end when I started needing to wait twice per cup of paint just to be able to see. The reason it got worse was problem two: the outlet filters plugged up. After the base, I couldn't see through them. I carefully knocked them clear (after the base was set), but the clear coat was so sticky that it just gummed them up. I had them sealed into the booth and couldn't replace them. I needed more air flow, more outlet filters and (since I was shooting over two gallons of material all at once) to make them replaceable. Ideally, a bigger inlet fan and 6-7 replaceable outlet filters.
Problem three: overspray. This is actually a side-effect of problem two. Since the air wasn't moving through, the clear in the air just settled back onto everything on my final coat. Below the midpoint of the car body (where the body faces downward) the clear is gorgeous. Above that, it is dull from overspray.
Problem four: dirt. I spent hours and hours cleaning the car and the booth, but had two issues. First, a floor seal let go partway through (which I didn't notice until I was almost done), allowing dust into the booth. Second, my masking in the rear vents and gas filler hole let go under the air pressure, meaning all the dirt in there made it into the air... and into the paint.
I was really upset when I finished and the paint looked like crap from overspray and dust. In fact, I wanted to just chuck the whole thing in frustration. But the next day (yesterday), I took one of the headlight doors which looked terrible and wet sanded, compounded, and polished it. It looks absolutely perfect. That Deltron buffs incredibly well. I'm using 800 grit on the worst parts. Then the whole car is getting 1000 wet, 1500 wet (lightly), 3000 wet, compound and polish. After a few hours on the hood surround, I think it's going to turn out very well. I screwed it up, but it's fixable so I'm happy.
I'll put a few pictures of the set up in the next post. Overall, I'd say I'll probably never do this again. It was exactly one year ago this week when I started the body work. Vacation time, every weekend and most nights. Then an entire week off work to build the booth and do the painting. Now another couple months of nights and weekends for wet sanding and assembly. I'd like to say it saved me huge money, but I still have almost $3000 in materials (body work stuff, primer, paint - the clear alone is $450 a gallon - and sandpaper). Plus another $1000 in equipment (which I don't really include in the cost). Plus another $500 for the booth. So it was expensive and really slow.
But it's been a lifelong goal to do a complete restoration by myself and I'm nearly done. So I'm glad I did it just for the experience.
As it has been written...100 things can go wrong during a paint job. And glad to read that what you had go funky on you was not catastrophic and the paint looks great when you are done buffing/polishing it.
Spent some time cutting and buffing and I think it's going to work! First is a pic of the rear deck. You can't see all the trash in it but, trust me, it's there. Second is the finished product on the driver's fender. As near perfect as a guy in his garage can get (just a couple specks if you know where to look). Overall, you can do it if you're willing to keep at it.
Last edited by E.Murray; Sep 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM.
Looks very nice, garage painting definitely can have issues., i once forgot to clean the overhead lights.. Talk about trash in paint. That fog that lingers has always been a nemesis to me also.
That's definitely a paint job to be proud of man.
TRUST ME...I understand about the micro specks that YOU can see...but I seriously doubt that no one ever will..... especially when you get it outside.
When I am cutting and buffing and checking my paint work...I have such an 'eagle eye' looking at it I can find the smallest things that most people would take hours to find...if they can find them at all.
In POST#6...that photo of the fender is SWEET!!!! All I can write is HELL YEAH!!!!!! And I know you know that is a compliment.
Good read,
I have been tooling up for the past year + prepping for painting my C4...
I also believe I have the same air compressor (Quincy QT54?).
I have a neighbor whom is an HVAC tech, he donated about 60 feet of 1in industrial grade copper hvac lines for the primary run from my compressor.
From there it's necked down to 3/4in and 1/2in hvac lines with a bunch of ups and downs to get the water to separate from the air.
So far it's working quite well just using air tools and blow off guns...
So far I have painted a 19ft aluminum boat (starcraft cuddy/cabin type) using a harbor freight spray gun and a very old 20gallon air compressor.
It did ok... not great but good enough for a fishing boat...
Now I have a 3M palm sander, and a 3M Accuspray with a full selection of tips...
I plan on getting to know the spray gun before I try painting the vette, and I'm not totally comfortable with the palm sander yet...
Good read,
I have been tooling up for the past year + prepping for painting my C4...
I also believe I have the same air compressor (Quincy QT54?).
I have a neighbor whom is an HVAC tech, he donated about 60 feet of 1in industrial grade copper hvac lines for the primary run from my compressor.
From there it's necked down to 3/4in and 1/2in hvac lines with a bunch of ups and downs to get the water to separate from the air.
So far it's working quite well just using air tools and blow off guns...
So far I have painted a 19ft aluminum boat (starcraft cuddy/cabin type) using a harbor freight spray gun and a very old 20gallon air compressor.
It did ok... not great but good enough for a fishing boat...
Now I have a 3M palm sander, and a 3M Accuspray with a full selection of tips...
I plan on getting to know the spray gun before I try painting the vette, and I'm not totally comfortable with the palm sander yet...
The Quincy is a great compressor. I got it in used, but like new, condition and have been very happy with it. I also got a Devilbiss QC3 desiccant unit to keep the water out (I have about 20' of pvc with 2 drains). Worked great.
As far as the sander, are you using that for body work? I didn't use any power sander on the finished paint. Waaaayyy to easy to burn through. Then you're screwed . I have a Makita 9227C I love for compound and polish, but did all the sanding by hand. Slow, yes. Painful, yes. But I only removed exactly the amount I wanted to. I know a lot of guys go at it with power, but I know the limits of my abilities. I'd nod off and... whoops! repaint!
If I had to give advice, it would be to buy decent materials, take no shortcuts whatsoever, and let 'er fly. Even 6 months later, I still smile every time I walk into the garage. The car still isn't done (crap, it takes a lot of fitment to get everything together!), but it's so much more fun to work on something shiny than something ugly.
Full repaint - my method
All of the parts painted the same day and I install and remove parts during the paint job temporary to make sure the metallics/pearls all match...which can make painting the car an all day scenario if a person is wanting it done correctly...in my opinion.
. I have a Makita 9227C I love for compound and polish, but did all the sanding by hand. Slow, yes. Painful, yes. But I only removed exactly the amount I wanted to. I know a lot of guys go at it with power, but I know the limits of my abilities. I'd nod off and... whoops! repaint!