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I also do not use gloves when I am using the razor blade method because normally I do not use heat...but sometimes I will.
. I was more concerned that you did get the correct chemical resistant gloves when using the chemical stripper and lacquer thinner.
I would start a new thread due to the subject matter is changing.. You can also put a link to this thread at the beginning of that thread ..so people can see how you go to this point.
When you get the new thread started....advice/suggestions will commence from there.
I am trying to keep as much primer on the car as possible so I will have something to block off. I know this is a Corvette, but the bodies are far from perfect and the prime will let me know where the problem areas are.
Have you considered using guide coat? And how will you avoid blocking through the original primer into the SMC if you don't build up some extra primer first? I find it hard to tell when I'm going too far with the blocking if I don't apply an extra coat of primer in a different colour, so that I can see when I'm about to break through it.
Have you considered using guide coat? And how will you avoid blocking through the original primer into the SMC if you don't build up some extra primer first? I find it hard to tell when I'm going too far with the blocking if I don't apply an extra coat of primer in a different colour, so that I can see when I'm about to break through it.
He is using the original primer as a 'guide coat'....so-to-speak. Because he is blocking it all off.
****PROFESIONAL OPINION******
I remove ALL of GM's primer when I do an all over paint job such as this thread is all about. Now what other people choose to do in regards to this primer...is entirely up to them.
When I am blocking a Corvette. I am not too concerned about how much I am blocking on the body. Simply because I can 'feel' where I have problems and KNOW....that if the area in question is too low. I cannot block it out and STOP and prep it so I can apply some Vette Panel Adhesive on that area. THIS is when your sense of 'feel' is utilized. The FEAR of getting the body too thin is just not a concern of mine. On many areas of the body I can block out abnormalities with no fear of ruining the body structure.
Generally this FEAR is unwarranted because I would bet that those that spread this FEAR...have not sat down with 80 grit on a block and sanded a piece of scrap body panel and see actually how long it takes to do any severe damage to it. And if they use 180 grit...the same applies for that also. One a person KNOWS how many strokes it takes to thin out the panel to reduce it by 25 or 50% ...because they also measured it...then they know what the limit is. BUT...in the same breath....using high rpm power sanders can do damage REALLY fast if the person operating that tool has no clue on what they are doing it and just running it across a panel for the heck of it...and the grit of sandpaper on that tool also.
Using the factory primer as a 'guide coat' is helpful in allowing me to see where the low spots and high spots are. But I still will need my sense of feel...regardless on how much guide coat powder I use.
On the Corvettes I block that have NO primer on them to use as a 'guide coat'. I use my sense of feel which has never let me down.
Also knowing what I am going to spray on the body for a gelcoat or primer. I also know that I do not ALWAYS have to get the body perfect before I do this due to the gelcoat and or polyester primer will fill in any minor abnormalities.
Now many people have the misconception that they have to get the body so perfect that can blow a coat of aerosol primer on it and it is perfect. WELL....they can do that if they wish. But often times they might find out ...after the fact...that they spent a lot of time getting the body so prefect that they could have stopped and used the primer as it is designed and intended to be used for.
And I can tell you that on some of the Corvettes I do....where the bodies are really rough. Depending if it is an SMC car or a polyester fiberglass bodied car. On the SMC cars I will sometimes apply my polyester primer...block it....and then prime it again and get the body so darn near perfect that it would shock some of you. So...there is nothing wrong with priming it...blocking it...and reapplying the primer again. Which goes right back to how much time and worry does a person spend in getting the body perfect in the prep stage prior to gelcoating/priming it.
i block with 100 grit before i begin applying anything . first step in getting them straight . unless you are grinding on an edge or body line your not likely to do any damage. after blasting a 60 year old car the surface is going to be rough so blocking takes care of most of that .
Well once again summer is closing us out here in the Pacific Northwest. My plan was to have the Corvette gel coated and painted by summers end. Didn’t make it. I did however manage to get the old paint completely stripped down to the polyester prime. I can now say with confidence my preferred method of removing old paint from a Corvette is using a razor blade.
Glad that the gold is completely gone. To each his own, Riverside just didn’t do it for me. Since its going to be a while for paint, I had to do something to protect the body and not to mention my Corvette was looking pretty rough. No bueno. Here is a picture of the car in Summit brand epoxy sealer. I asked Summit to send me a water base sealer, and when I received the order I just put it on the shelf. Five months later, I pull it out only to find not what I ordered. My fault!!! Once I figured out what product I had, it worked well. No reducer, only activator. Satin finish. Should block off easily.
MAN...I hope there was some of the factory primer or whatever left on the car when you shot this stuff. Having to go back in and take it all of may go easy especially if it can be removed with lacquer thinner and steel wool.
Gotta say it does look pretty cool in the photo though.
Started out using chemical stripper on rear deck but not having much luck with the stuff from Lowe’s, so trying the razor blade method with better results of removing the Maaco paint job. There will be nicks and scratches and not sure how to deal with those.
use a heat gun to help stop the nicks . also stops the chips from flying . CAUTION ! THOSE CHIPS CAN SEVERLY DAMAGE YOUR EYE !
the heat gun will let it come off in strips .
Took your advice and got out the heat gun, goes twice as fast but switched to a sharpened putty knife with wooden handle, fingers couldn’t handle the hot razor blades.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
