corvet786c

Happen to back out and the door caught the garage door. what do I need to do thanks.

Dave Tracy

I bet you wish you had that to do over again! Too bad it happened. It appears that the SMC has been crushed and broken. You may have some additional cracking toward the front of the door. It looks like you will have to remove the crushed/loose material, sand the area beyond the repaired area, use EPOXY resin and mat to build the area up, use a thin covering of VPA, sand, prime and paint. The paint match might be difficult. I'm sure DUB will give you better directions. Good luck and sorry for your incident.

DUB

Nope...Dave you said it all...and could have not stated it better myself.

DUB

corvet786c

ok Thanks alot.

Torch FRC

corvet786c

I just ordered mil yellow touch up paint from the dealer, should come in next week. supposed to be exact.

DUB

Due to color variants through the model year. Hopefully your color matches.

And as for the cost...which can vary from shop to shop due to shop hourly rates across the country vary... but I do see it getting close to $1000. And that is also blending paint into the rear quarter panel to make the color blend and match.

ALSO...it DEPENDS on the internal flange damage to the door also.

DUB

gowenfast

Don't beat yourself up too badly. I was in a hurry taking out our Camaro Pace Car convertible out of the garage last week, and caught the right front fender on the door track of the garage. The good news (for me) is the Camaro is metal, and a paintless dent removal guy got out the dent. I felt like sh** for 3 days, slapping myself for being in too much of a hurry. My advice is don't short cut the repair. Get it done 100% correctly, so you can enjoy the car again with out moaning over an amateur/poor repair. IMHO

corvet786c

Actually my neighbor helped me alot and actually fixed it with resin and fiberglass fibers. It looks alot better. He restores older vehicles and has experience with these types of repaires. I just finished it, but have to resand the surface again because I forgot to sand off the primer causing a deeper shade than before. As far as the dent goes it is gone and straight and smooth.

derekd8915

DUB

Clearly. you are on a roll with your posts....and..you are not aware of how VPA (Vette Panel Adhesive) is used or how it works. It can be used to fill on top of SMC. which oddly enough takes WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin to repair. Because I do not suggest or advise using polyester resin on any SMC repair that was cracked.

So explain to me why it is okay to use epoxy resin on polyester fiberglass and it bonds...but you can not use a polyester body filler on top of an epoxy resin. Funny how even WEST SYSTEMS says it is okay to use a polyester filler on top of their resin when it has cured and prepped correctly.

​​​​​​​I have so many repairs out on the road that have lasted for decades and not one problem. So I really do not understand you comments when clearly that they can be disputed. Heck...the WEST SYSTEMS resin and carbon fiber I used on a Nitro Funny car body that I maintained had VPA applied to it. It lasted and it NEVER came apart or cracked. And that body was put under more stress and abuse than any Corvette body I have done that is on the street. Have you ever seen what happens to those bodies when the car get tire shake???

​​​​​​​DUB

derekd8915

derekd8915

DUB

Obviously you can not answer questions like what was asked in the second paragraph of POST#11. No explanation on that to back up what you say is 'how it is'.

WELL...thanks for joining the forum and you can take over answering ALL of the body repair questions. ...seeing how I doubt you have not really done any serious Corvette repair that has been seen and won awards or has lasted any length of time...so this will be interesting.....but yet.... you are still a 'ghost' and none knows who you really are. I know you have ten years in doing this type of work which is fine...so it will be interesting on how you want everybody to fix everything.

I read what you posted but I KNOW all that...so nothing new. IT has EVERYTHING to do with where the repair is at and the amount of stress that the area will undergo. So I guess you called to WEST SYSTEMS and asked them if VPA or any polyester product can not be used....because I did and IT CAN...so you article is bogus. Unless you feel that WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin is a 'budget builder" product to use.

I know about tooling resins and laminating resins and how to make plugs and molds and all that stuff....and just because a product is far superior than that of another product. Does not mean that each and every repair has to be done using the best product out there due to it ALL DEPENDS on where the damage is at. And THAT is where experience comes into play.

DUB

derekd8915

derekd8915

DUB

Getting off track?. You are side skirting the question I asked you to answer and you are still dodging it. Second paragraph in POST #11.

CALL the number on the can of WEST SYTEMS 105 resin and ask them THEY make it.
.
I HAVE called several times to make sure and the reply has always been the same as like I wrote.

VPA is NOT a polyester putty. In the 'world' of bodywork. There are putties and then there are fillers and adhesives. Because if you way of thinking is like that. Then I guess Elmers glue is a glue but a crash adhesive that is approved for repairing a vehicles structure is also a glue....BUT they are NOT the same type of 'glue'. Putties in the automotive body repair industry have a limited usage and can generally only go on so thick due to their chemical structure and how they were formulated by chemists. But yet...a filler/adhesive can go on much thicker. Now I have seen guys use the glazing putties as body filler but they do as they was and if they want to push the limits of what a product and do...that is up to them. It does not matter to me due to I do not use ANY glazing putties when I repair the Corvette bodies to remove surface imperfections like I have clearly written in other threads. I use the VPA for all surface repairs when dealing with polyester adn SMC body panels.

DUB

c1nicole

Not sure if your intent was to be "helpful" or to start a debate, in either case......

Having found this forum knowing little about working with corvettes, as my late father restored mostly classic Mustangs/Jag's. This forum has countless people that FREELY and generously offer help and advise that is priceless.

DUB specifically has ALWAYS been available to call and talk to or review pictures to get clarification on the best way to approach a project on our beloved cars. I have never seen someone so passionate about offering help to others in this way!

Without hesitation, I can say that DUB is one of the most accessible, selfless, KNOWLEDGEABLE people on this forum.

So again, to offer a topic for debate or to give solid input on something you have learned.... great! Otherwise, choosing to douche-bag out on someone in this forum that has earned immeasurable respect and appreciation from so many, is not a well thought out decision.

derekd8915

DUB

STILL.... no answer to the second paragraph in POST #11 and diverting the thread. HOW IS IT that epoxy resin can go on a polyester resin based product. and BOND...but yet you feel and some others that a polyester product can not go on epoxy resin??? HOW does the chemical link change??? EXPLAIN...I am ALL EARS...because I have stated that those that felt that way can feel that way but I feel they are full of it due to I have done it and it WORKS...even in the most stressful of situations.

I DO NOT need 'micro balloons' in my repairs. You may..so be it. AS for adding substances to resins and the tricks I have learned ..I DO that..

Once again...you HAVE NO CLUE on what VPA can do and seem to be a person who reads what is written as the GOSPEL TRUTH. But you can not comprehend that VPA can be applied on SMC..

Are you AWARE that people apply epoxy primer on car and then a polyester based primer and it ADHERES with NO signs if of it delaminating or wanting not shear off in sheets.

While people like me ( and others) have REAL WORLD experience and I DO NOT steer anyone down a wrong path of a repair for their Corvette when they post a thread with a specific repair, Unlike you...I have been doing body repair for decades adn I KNOW what works. And YES...I KNOW there are other ways of doing it but when I have found a process and products that give me awesome results....why change 'just because' the industry has come out with a new product.

Dealing with THIS THRAED and the damage at the back edge of the door...the strength in that edge and how the inner and outer panels are joined DOES NOT require a major undertaking to get this area repaired and have to be STOUT. Being a bodyman...I know this to be true.

Running between applying VPA and this forum...I am back off to working on an intense 68 Corvette project I have applied some VPA on and let it set up so I can block it. Which will be much more fun than dealing with this 'back and forth' with you.

YES...some people actually TRUST me in knowing that I do the BEST for their Corvette and I will spare no expense in delivering the best possible end result. Regardless in what you think about it when you have very little to no experience in body repair.. Because in your thread....show me ANYWHERE in the automotive world where a car company has laminated a resin to steel and expect it to hold. NO WHERE. There is reason WHY they do not do it. Because it does not hold... and in time...YES...in time...it can fail.and more than likely will due to how steel and fiberglass expand and contract at different rates and I am only saying this is because I have seen it more times that I care to remember when people do this. HECK...even when people try to bond on their fiberglass bumpers they can have ghost line appear and they are dealing with fiberglass/SMC. Like I CLEARLY showed in the LINGENFELTER thread where the steel had rusted and the fiberglass just fell off...so it did not bond...and if it did...it did it only it for a while. And who is the 'budget builder' now like you kindly referred me to being in a another thread.

DUB