DUB, 68 body panel replacement Qs
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 78
From: montague michigan
C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
DUB, 68 body panel replacement Qs
DUB! I JUST GOT ANOTHER PROJECT! i picked up a 68 427 4spd roadster that is in need of some body repairs...i know with my 65 you told me too use the corvette image bonding adhesive that is just like original. but i think c3 panel adhesive may be different?.. i found all the NOS GM pieces to fix it. my question is:
what is recommended for panel glue on the 68 panels?
i am assuming it involves the same prep work on the panels as the 65?
36 grit wheel, clean and ruff both surfaces.
give me your insight DUB on anything i might need or run into...thanks for all your help... troy
what is recommended for panel glue on the 68 panels?
i am assuming it involves the same prep work on the panels as the 65?
36 grit wheel, clean and ruff both surfaces.
give me your insight DUB on anything i might need or run into...thanks for all your help... troy
Last edited by 20round; Aug 18, 2018 at 04:24 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
VPA can be used as long as it is still creamy and not thick. Also you can get red hardener and use it and it comes out looking very close the the color of the factory adhesive GM used. BUT...when you grind down the seams to fill them in withe VPA...USE BLUE HARDENER THERE.
Yes your prep is just like the 1965. A good rough grind that you know is CLEAN. Also when applying the VPA you want to mash it into your prepped areas and then add more on top of it so you know you worked it into your grind marks,
They KEY THING when using the VPA is to make sure you have tested and KNOW how much hardener it takes to ALLOW you to apply the amount of VPA you plan on applying. So...if the air temps are HOT where you are. You might want to back off on the hardener if you plan on applying a large volume of it.
You DO NOT want to 'dilly-dally' while mixing the VPA when the air temps are HOT due to it will want to harden much faster than if you tried to do this during winter when you shop temps may be 50 degrees F.
I use it an have no problems in it working for me. I figure out how much I need and kind of knwo teh volume due to paying attention to the gaps in the bonding area and the panels so I do not over mix it and waste it and thus...allows me to have better control on how I get the panel(s) on in stages.
Now I can say that there is an option of using the SEM 39747 if you want to due to it can give you a lot of working time. I can use the VPA becasue I can figure out how to get the panel fitted up and marked and how long it takes me ...by myself to mix and apply the VPA and get the panel on and clamped and not have ti set up because I TESTED how much hardener it takes to make the VPA get hard in a the time I need to get it on and clamped.
PLEASE if you have any questions.>CALL ME.
DUB
Yes your prep is just like the 1965. A good rough grind that you know is CLEAN. Also when applying the VPA you want to mash it into your prepped areas and then add more on top of it so you know you worked it into your grind marks,
They KEY THING when using the VPA is to make sure you have tested and KNOW how much hardener it takes to ALLOW you to apply the amount of VPA you plan on applying. So...if the air temps are HOT where you are. You might want to back off on the hardener if you plan on applying a large volume of it.
You DO NOT want to 'dilly-dally' while mixing the VPA when the air temps are HOT due to it will want to harden much faster than if you tried to do this during winter when you shop temps may be 50 degrees F.
I use it an have no problems in it working for me. I figure out how much I need and kind of knwo teh volume due to paying attention to the gaps in the bonding area and the panels so I do not over mix it and waste it and thus...allows me to have better control on how I get the panel(s) on in stages.
Now I can say that there is an option of using the SEM 39747 if you want to due to it can give you a lot of working time. I can use the VPA becasue I can figure out how to get the panel fitted up and marked and how long it takes me ...by myself to mix and apply the VPA and get the panel on and clamped and not have ti set up because I TESTED how much hardener it takes to make the VPA get hard in a the time I need to get it on and clamped.
PLEASE if you have any questions.>CALL ME.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Such as me actually making a video of it??? And you are aware that there are several different body styles and thus I would need to do a video for each design change of importance so I would not leave anyone's body style out..
I could talk with you about this if you want.
DUB
I could talk with you about this if you want.
DUB
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 78
From: montague michigan
C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
Such as me actually making a video of it??? And you are aware that there are several different body styles and thus I would need to do a video for each design change of importance so I would not leave anyone's body style out..
I could talk with you about this if you want.
DUB
I could talk with you about this if you want.
DUB
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 78
From: montague michigan
C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
thank you DUB! VPA, i still have some left over. i will check the age before i use it...as far as clamping go's i bought some cheap C-clamp vise-grips from harbor freight. i cut the jaw ends off and extended them by 2ft so that i could reach up a fender to clamp the strip area. and unfortunately i used small self taper screws were i could not clamp. then i went back and filled in the hole on both sides. i would LOVE too see how you clamp a fender and quarter panel on a 68-69 if you have any pics? thanks again... troy
Keeping an eye on this thread.
