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Didn't watch it but I'm going to suggest a "beginner" doesn't cut his teeth on a $50K or $60K car - maybe the neighbor's Volkswagon Beetle or the like...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-16-2019 at 07:55 AM.
This is clearly an advertisement for Eastwood. No mention of a Corvette, or Corvette bodywork, products, or material. Most of what is shown in this video is for a metal car.
Also, there has ALWAYS been a ton of video on youtube specifically for the DIY'er applicable to Corvettes. This is really, NOT a spectacular find, as promoted by the OP.
Last edited by mike coletta; 02-16-2019 at 07:12 AM.
Didn't watch it but I'm going to suggest a "beginner" doesn't cut his teeth o a $50K or $60K car - maybe the neighbor's Volkswagon Beetle or the like...
Lol …. … Frank, have you seen some of the Piles of Dung touted as projects recently -
This is clearly an advertisement for Eastwood. No mention of a Corvette, or Corvette bodywork, products, or material. Most of what is shown in this video is for a metal car.
Mike - The "basics" apply whether metal of fibreglass - the focus here is on the technique being applied - no negative waves, Man
Yeah but I've seen $15K basket cases turned into $140K restomods and that means stellar paint....
I loved the pictures in that link though - those cars definitely need buffed out
I used to paint all my cars myself. Last one I did was my FFR Daytona Coupe in 2004 (fiberglass) and just prior to that my 1970 Mustang convertible (this is the one I took to London in 2003 when the company gave me a 40 foot shipping container and said I could put ANYTHING in it. Later sold it for £40k cash in a transaction at a rest stop near Oxford in the M40 that would make a drug dealer proud).
Anyway, quality paints today are DANGEROUS! A chemical respirator doesn’t cut it. You need a fresh air supplied mask and to cover as much of your skin as possible. If that doesn’t scare you away, then perhaps start by painting a single panel that doesn’t require blending. The rear valance on a corvette is a good example. Buy your paint from a reputable source and have them color match it. There are several on line vendors that do a good job. My 1976 LR Series III was bronze green, but it seemed darker than the standard color. I sent a small part to an on line company so they could color match the paint and I got a call a few days later asking which color I wanted. I hadn’t noticed, but the original color was on one side. They matched the darker color and it was perfect. They also sent the part back. All this after trying to find a local vendor who would match my paint to no avail. Pay strict attention to reducer temps, mixing ratios, nozzle size, flash and recoat times, try to stick with a single “system” of primers, base, and clear, and practice setting up your gun and your technique before attempting your car and you may be successful. Oh, and try not to get overspray on the wife’s new car...that’s another story.
I've posted on this subject before. I said it then, and I'll say it again, I have a huge amount of respect for a quality body and paint man. I prepared and painted my '55 Nomad myself. I did have a good friend who provided advise, but I wanted to do it myself, so he gave me guidance whenever I needed it.
In the end the Nomad came out great! But I had over 500 hours into body prep alone. I'm sure a professional could cut that down by at least 1/2, if not down to 1/3rd of the time that I spent. None the less though is the fact that I did it.
Now that I'm working on the '63, I again have spent literally hundreds of hours getting the body ready. This one I won't paint because it's original silver blue metallic in color, and I understand that it takes a very experienced paint man to handle the gun correctly. I just don't want to put all this time and effort into the prep, only to finish up with tiger stripes.
I know many of us body men and painters have our own way of doing things....but I can say...that even if you get some of us together...we all can agree on certain aspects of doing a job should not be taken lightly. The video above ...in my opinion is just another one that will get a person in trouble if they follow it like a bible. Because it is the SMALL THINGS that will come back and bite you in the backside.
Did anyone notice how when they re-applied body filler on the door...AFTER they shot an aerosol can guide coat product....and left the guide coat still in the low areas and covered over it with body filler. Look at it at 5:34 to 5:41 in the video. The area below the door handle area to the right and the creases with the primer in them. Look at 6:02 to 6:10 Applying teh body filler on this NON CATALYZED aerosol primer. Like they think that the filler is going to stick to to this guide coat what was OBVIOUSLY not removed. But yet they striped the door all the way down to bare steel.
I do not know any good body man that use a rattle can primer and puts body filler on it. Obviously..... some feel it is good enough to put in a video. Next thing I will see is them using the old 'red cap spot putty' and say it is good to use.
Get with it....use a DRY GUIDE COAT powder and toss that rattle can.
'Some of us' know that if a person REALLY wants to do it right. The door would have had a conversion coating applied to it to keep the body filler off of the bare steel....but yet still allow the body filler to stick to it like glue. Becasue metal can rust when body filler is applied on it.....because I have seen it. All depends on the level of quality a person is expecting.
Wetsanding a basecoat is up to who ever wants to do it...but JUST MAKE SURE you allow the panel to dry very well PRIOR to applying clear. Some basecoats DO NOT like being sanded on. They gum up.
02-16-2019, 06:45 AM
How to Paint your Car - an Easy Guide
… Frank, have you seen some of the Piles of Dung touted as projects recently -
