Ok everyone, on my recently purchased 91 I noticed that someone must have smacked something large under the car at one point. On the drivers side where your feet are there is a metal plate on the outside which I’m guessing is to help with small impacts in that area. This is creased and the damage above it is a bunch of cracks. The cracks extend to the front seat support (which is slightly bent up).

There are no real missing pieces but I’d like to know how to approach this. I searched some here but a lot of the pictures are taken down by Photobucket.

The cracks are uneven and can’t easily be pushed back down together. Listen, this car is not and will never be a show car so that wouldn’t bother me, however I’d like the repair to be structurally sound. Do I need to grind the cracks down so their flush? Speaking of grinding/sanding, do I have to remove enough material so that everything is all white? There are a lot of cracks so maybe I have to sand the entire floor up front?

Im assuming both sides have to be grounded the same? The bottom has what appears an undercoat.

I also have some Bondo brand fiberglass cloth that I had laying around and never used. I see that it’s not recommended to use cloth but I think it’s more for cosmetics? Again, it’s the floor and this is just a driver so that wouldn’t bother me. I have a can of Bondo resin but I see that is not recommended either. Will this not bond as well?

I have done steel floors, quarter panels, other steel body parts but this is my FIRST fiberglass car. It’s making me nervous! I wish I could just weld it all back together!

Any help, and especially pictures of the process would be very much appreciated. Of if anyone is local and wants to make a few bucks I wouldn’t object! Haha.

 

crack under the clutch pedal

Also along the side

Prepped area with acetone and sanding. Mat and resin both sides of floor and pulled the mat edges so I did not have a straight line showing.

Finished product drying!

 

Thank you for the pictures. I’m guessing your car is older than a c4? My floor is black. Maybe some kind of coating? I don’t know if I have to sand just the cracks to the fiber material or go out an inch or so on each side of the cracks or farther? Anyone know if any part of the repair can touch the black part or does it all have to be brought to the fiberglass material? Sorry for the stupid questions. I just want to get it right the first time.

Here are some pictures of mine. I hit it quickly with a sander to highlight the damage.


Trans tunnel

Drivers seat

Left side

Under pedals

 

I would grind back at least 1 to 1-1/2 inches each side of the crack, top and bottom, with the grinding tapering to wafer thin at the crack. be sure and saturate the mat with resin. After you lay the mat in place take the brush you applied the resin with and "poke" the mat to be sure there are NO air bubbles. You don't have to do it all at once, take your time and see how it goes.

 

Ok that’s what I’ll do. Is the SMC stuff a necessity or will the regular resin work?

 

SMC resin is better, but I don't think 4x the price better.

 

That’s kind of what I was thinking however I’m new to these cars. Thanks again.

 

Use epoxy resin-not polyester resin.

 

I’m assuming the bondo brand stuff I have is polyester? If so, you’re saying that shouldn’t be used?

ok looked it up and the bondo brand is in fact polyester resin. What’s the reason not to use this? Will it not bond? I don’t mind buying another brand but only if there’s a reason to, not just because it might be better or it costs more. Please don’t take this as an attack. I’m all ears and honestly want to know.

 

Ok I’ve been reading non stop about this and it seems epoxy is the way to “be sure” it’ll stick to SMC. I also heard back from a local corvette shop that they could fix my floor for $500.

Its a lot of cash but not too much to not consider. They use SMC compatible products.

Doing the repair myself maybe I’ll have $100 give or take into it along with time. I’ve never worked with fiberglass period so I’m on the fence on what to do. It doesn’t look like the affected area is structural so that helps.

Decisions, decisions

 

Wanted to update that I straightened the floor back together as good as I could and fixed it up on the inside. I’ll attack the outside in spring as I’ll put it up on a lift at that point. The car will be down all winter anyway with getting the interior back together and the engine running properly. Thanks for the help and it wasn’t hard at all. Oh yeah, I used the west systems kit with the pumps. I worked great!