I called Mr Gasket hurst's parent company and they said not to use the hurst line lock on my Z06. Guess I will us the Cartek unit even if the unit is made by hurst. I like the idea that i can just bolt something in place and not have to bend my own brake lines. Peter

 

How much is the Cartek kit? I don't see it on their website. I was going to go with the Hurst until the post above says that Hurst says you shouldn't.

 

The Cartek kit is about 200 bucks and worth every dime. It does not show up on their web site, you'll have to give them a call.


Not having to bend or flare brake lines and having them the correct length, and made of to OEM standards is worth the savings in hassle you will realize when you go to install your line lock.

 

This looks GREAT !! I like the location of line lock button. I hate cluttering up the interior.

 

How is the cartek kit on instructions? pretty straight forward?

 

I might just relocate my button!! I paid $250 back in 01!

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Just another idea for the button. This is from B&M however Hurst makes the same thing.

 

Thanks

 

What does a line lock do? THanks,

Jim K.

 

A line lock locks the front brakes without engaging the rear brakes. Since the rear wheels will now spin freely, it makes burnouts a lot easier. It is a convenient way to heat up the rear tires and make them sticky for drag racing. Assuming that they are soft compound tires.

It is engaged by pressing and holding the brake pedal. Then pushing and holding the line lock button. Releasing the brake pedal while still holding the button. Now the front brakes are engaged but not the rears. Now if you at this point get on the gas, while holding the button, the rear wheels will spin and smoke up/heat up/ become sticky if you are running soft compound tires.

Release the button and the car will roll ahead normally but with hotter, stickier rear tires. This of course helps to improve traction.

 

Ahhhh Haaaa, that explains how those guys were burning thru the rubber at the track. Interesting. Thanks for the info EB.

Jim K.

 

...or you can just pop your clutch in second gear to do your burnout while gently applying enough brake to keep the car from rolling forward. That is what I do. Still trying to decide if I want to drop the 2 bones for a lock. The burnout would be a little prettier but still not sure if it is worth it to me.

 

It's pretty easy to do a burnout w/o the line lock, but I will say that it probably does save you some rear brake pad wear...
Ron

 

and thats why I went with a line lock. Your rear brake pads are going to wear a bit more if you do burnouts w/o the line lock.

 

Take it from someone who knows...GET A LINELOCK! I'm having to replace my entire differential, due to burn-outs while braking, at the track!
The rear gears are whining way above what is normal, due to damage incurred while doing burnouts w/o a line lock. This, per DTE appraisal of damage. Now I have to buy ANOTHER stg. 2, 3:73 diff. and line lock, just to get rid of what is the loudest whining I have ever heard from a C5 differential! Take heed!!!

 

Is there instruction on how to install Cartek line lock?

 

FYI for those interested...

From our experience in building over 500 of these units to date, the greatest cause of differential clutch pack failure is due to the extreme overheating of the sintered bronze clutch discs within the clutch pack assy. while doing an aggressive water-box burnout (or any type of burnout for that matter) while the brakes are applied.

Often times, the rear brakes do not apply the same holding force from side-to-side when applied in a burnout scenario, which causes one wheel to spin at a faster rate than the other; therefore forcing the differentiating assy./clutch pack/spider gear assy. to operate at elevated torsional loads due to the excessive wheel-to-wheel speed differentiation.

Excessive, uncontrolled heat rapidly ensues within the clutch pack assy. which not only cokes/burns the lubricant almost immediately, but partially welds/seers the clutch pack discs together. All of the additional metal particulate from this severe overheating/wearing event has to go somewhere, so the now-burned lubricant carries it throughout the differential assy- plugging the oiling passages, severely damaging the bearings, races, internal differentiating assy. and ultimately the gear set. Once the lubricant is coked/burned, it effectively loses its ability to provide proper lubricity properties, cleaning effects and of course, cooling ability.

This very reason is why we STRONGLY recommend high performance synthetic lubricants for ALL those who do *any* type of racing, as the O.E. lubricant absolutely does NOT have the ability to withstand elevated differential temperatures typically encountered with racing use...period. It's bad enough that these units barely hold enough lubricant in the sump to do its job, let alone partially handicapping it even further by using poor O.E. lubricant that was never intended to be used in this manner.

We've seen this type of differential failure all too often manyyyyyy times before....



Best Regards,
DTE

 

What type of rear end fluid do you recommend if not the factory fill?
Thanks
Bob

 

We've had outstanding success with Redline 75/90w in all of our HP differentials.

Best Regards,
DTE