After skimming through some of the fast list build threads I have a question. Who still has there T56 in their cars ??
So...whos running 10.50's or faster with a real T56 ?? No pro shifted, dog ringed, faceplated, slippers or TR6060 conversions.
Whos really going fast with factory 6 speed ?? M6 or M12 ?? And of course.....if it needed beefed up thats fine....but I would also like to know what you have done to make it live.

Thanks.....just fyi, I'm ECS brace, 3 rib 4.10 ECS stage 2 diff and a BC2 clutch. And roughly 500na and a little spray.


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I own PRAYS old Z06 and will not go auto even though at the hp level I have it would be quicker. I'm hoping (praying) for a solid 9 sec et.

I've had the fast auto cars before but rowing gears and getting there first is the best

 

I still have my T56 in my car

best up to date is 10.1@143.7 60ft 1.63 lack of traction on 26" tires

it´s MN6 only thing done to it is new syncroms, billet keys and bronze fork pads.
last summer i broke my pinion carrier in the diff and the mainshaft, so i upgraded to Gforce 9310 mainshaft. (this didn´t happen at track tough just few days later after a 10.3@140 run )

SPEC 3+ clutch steel Flwh + Tick master
Diff is stock housing whith C6 Z guts ECS brace and stock gears 3.42

but my driveline is a ticking timebomb...
bigger tires and more juice to come....

I´M GOING AUTO

i think T56 is good up to 700 maby 800rwhp whith hardened mainshaft but then the diff is already a trouble, you could get away whith t56 and a C6 diff conversion on that powerlevel for some time maby but after that a TR6060 and built C6 Z diff is the only way to go in a stick car

good luck
Baezi

 

Thanks guys.....it seems there are very few true T56's left. Damn....thats not a good sign for me . O'well...we will see what parts puke out.....

Clemonsdave...what trans are you running your 9.97 with ??



Thanks.......

 

Been using the T-56 with hardened shafts etc. No real issues with it, best pass has been 10.28 at 138. I run a dual disc McLeod clutch.

 

Yes and good clutch setup is offcourse very imortant when people are pushing it specially on higher horsepower levels....

Mcleod dual is a good clutch also i´ve seen people who run RPS are very glad whith it...

Baezi

 

Stock untouched trans.
Stock untouched 3.42 rear (well, hardened output shafts).
McLeod RXT Twin
Zero broken parts, but I didn't abuse it

It would be much faster with gears, but I like keeping it stock.

 

From my experience, it's not the T56 that's the weak link but it's the diff. The main output shaft breaks when the diff goes and not the other way around. If you build the T56 with 30 splined shaft and run the C6 Z06 diff, I think that should be good to 10.0 to 9.80. If you want to go faster, TR6060 is a must.

 

I just went right to the TR6060 now that I'm making a little power. Didn't wanna hope the old stuff held up.

 

Hey Rick or Tsab.....is it a pretty in-depth process to R&R the main output shaft ?? I would assume so.....and I just had that **** out doing the BC2 clutch, ECS brace and ECS stg 2 4.10 diff ..... The reason I dicided to not touch the trans was my plan for a T.M. faceplate it in the spring..with a slipper of course. But depending on which way the wind blows I may change my mind again . Im still not sure if the slipper/faceplate is right for me. Like I said...depends on which way the wind is blowing. And I want to see first hand how far I can push the T56...I have some personal goals in mind that I'm looking to do with the car and maybe after that I can do the "full C6Z cradle, diff and trans deal".

Im so ready to get this beotch to the track its not funny. You guys would fn shoot me if I told you the circus that I've caused myself...haha....example...same heads have been on and off twice....and never fired...haha...now they are on there way back to B.T.'s for some chamber softening and "extra" massaging. But she should produce...and that will be well worth the 6 months shes been down.

*****...I could ramble all night about the resoning behind the indecisions...haha....

Thanks for the feedback guys.....can I get in on some....."best section in the forum" statements. Haha....after I heckled that Canadian...haha....

 

What is you setup btw. ? how much are you gona spray ?
When are you gona hit the track?
are you still running stock C5´s outputshaft´s ?
what tires will you be running ?

Baezi

 

Well...'04Z
1)with the drag pack she weights 2840lbs or 3010lb with me
2)346 SBE with worked 243's, cam and manifold~500ish-rwhp (n/a)
3)N. Outlet direct port with stand alone fuel system (not sure on how much....just chasing an ET...so what ever it takes....and I run with some of the best n2o guys in the country ....to help with the tune)
4)stock t56, RPS/BC2, ECS 4.10 with harded shafts and brace

the two things that will be on the car before she down the track is the LG drag spindle and QA1's on all corners.

And about the tires.....on the n2o it will be a M/T slick (28x10.5/15). Hoping the sidewall will help....a lot.

And dragging it to Texas for the initial n/a tune (this week or the week after newyears) and will hit the concrete palace !! And drive it 4 hours home...because it is a real pump gas ZO6 street car.

Thanks.....


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It´s light weigt.....

that 4.10 gears on 28inch and N2o will be awesome,

post some results when you go

good luck

Baezi

 

Good luck with it and keep us posted.

 

Thanks guys....I'm hoping the 15" slick will help the rear....and trans hold together. When I weighted the two different set ups (15x10 prostars w/28" M/T slicks vs C4 GS knockoffs with Hoosier 315 DR's) it was 17lbs lighter per side with the 15"ers. Some I hoping that the rotating weight and the sidewall helpout a bunch.

Thanks......anybody have back to back data on the 17" vs 15" ?? Arun ??..basically interested in 60' and mph differences between the two.

 

We ran a similar set up in Kyles street car . Head /Cam /200 shot /t56/410- 10.00 all day long. We used a Tex 0z700 and a 16 inch slick 1.41 60 ft
The 15 inch tire should help .w We lost a few ring and pinions and some main shafts it got expensive, swapped to the Rpm TR6060 kit and never looked back. Added a 402 CI and went 9.25 @155 banging gears no faceplate or slipper clutch ,stock weight plus the cage ...

 

 

That's when racing was fun .... Now .... lol

 

You guys better start cleaning your pm boxes out now....cuz I'm going to be filling them up with launch videos so you guys can give me pointers .

On a side note...since the car is weeks away from firing.....thought I'd indulge in a little bench race (theory). With the M12 1st gear being so steep (2.97) I've been running the numbers on a possible second gear launch (2.07).....remeber I'm 4.10 rear. Picture this...stage the car in second...which would let me leave on more spray and would eliminate one shift...aka..one less time the n2o turns off. So a three shift 1/4 mile pass. And with less "torque multiplacation" on the line and more n20 I should 60' quicker...in theory. So the progressive box would look something like this...50% off the line and 7 tenths 100% of a 150 jet. Thats kind of how I have my 66 Nova setup...but it a glide and a whole different ball of wax.

But I do understand that is a lot of "load" on the driveline....and I will be losing the mechanical multiplication factor. But from my experiance....less gear more "jug" off the line...and vise versa.


Thanks...and Gary...what kind of numbers does a bolt-on C6Z put to the tire ?? And with that torque curve...I imagine shift recovery is second to none. And who thinks I'm crazy to think I'll make 440ftlbs from this 346 at the tire ??