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On the tuning note, don't expect the VE table tuning to pick up anything at the track. That snappy feeling you feel is because the ECU is faster when it already has the data from a table vs having to wait a split second for the maf to react.
12.1 AFR is pretty fat, I expect at least a 1 mph increase from going to 12.6-12.8. I am going to experiment tonight on the dyno with varying AFRs to see where the best power is. That is odd that your car only takes 20 degrees at peak torque. Are you running stock heat range plugs still?
What gears do you have in that thing?
Last edited by mchicia1; Sep 14, 2012 at 09:43 AM.
On the tuning note, don't expect the VE table tuning to pick up anything at the track. That snappy feeling you feel is because the ECU is faster when it already has the data from a table vs having to wait a split second for the maf to react.
12.1 AFR is pretty fat, I expect at least a 1 mph increase from going to 12.6-12.8. I am going to experiment tonight on the dyno with varying AFRs to see where the best power is. That is odd that your car only takes 20 degrees at peak torque. Are you running stock heat range plugs still?
What gears do you have in that thing?
Thanks for the info on the VE, I was wondering if it might 60ft just a tad better.
I have TR5 plugs in, I have some TR6 in the wings. I had them in for a bit, but was chasing a miss so put the 5's back in. Turned out to be a bad plug wire, but never tried the 6's again. So the timing is reduced chasing KR. The delivered torque seems to come up with the lower timing. AFR chamber maybe doesn't need a lot of timing?
Now that I have the roll bar in, I can run the car full out and get good data. Sometimes it's been 3 weeks between outings. CTD is doing the tweaks while I learn. Trying to tweak one thing at a time.
I really need to make sure to get out tonight, then analyze and go back Sat with the 6's in the car. We are lucky to have a great facility and usually only 20 cars running......
Gears are 3.42
Too bad I can't post a log here, they are quite interesting.
The car has come a long way since this time last year when it ran 13.05 @ 106!
Ron
Thanks for the info on the VE, I was wondering if it might 60ft just a tad better.
I have TR5 plugs in, I have some TR6 in the wings. I had them in for a bit, but was chasing a miss so put the 5's back in. Turned out to be a bad plug wire, but never tried the 6's again. So the timing is reduced chasing KR. The delivered torque seems to come up with the lower timing. AFR chamber maybe doesn't need a lot of timing?
Now that I have the roll bar in, I can run the car full out and get good data. Sometimes it's been 3 weeks between outings. CTD is doing the tweaks while I learn. Trying to tweak one thing at a time.
I really need to make sure to get out tonight, then analyze and go back Sat with the 6's in the car. We are lucky to have a great facility and usually only 20 cars running......
Gears are 3.42
Too bad I can't post a log here, they are quite interesting.
The car has come a long way since this time last year when it ran 13.05 @ 106!
Ron
My WOT timing below and I make around 460 rwhp and trap 125+ on street tires. I started off with the stock C5Z curve, and added and subtracted where I needed. This was also tuned in 100 degree weather (best time to tune timing IMO) and not one shred of KR.
1600: 19.0
1800: 22.0
2000: 26.0
2200: 28.0
2400: 30.0
2800: 30.0
3200: 31.0
3600: 30.0
4000: 26.0
4400: 25.0
4800: 25.0
5200: 25.0
5600: 27.0
6000: 28.0
6400: 28.0
Now, what is better more timing and colder plugs or less timing and a hotter plug? I have no idea, power wise, what would be better. All I know is I have never gotten KR with TR6s, but in my old cammed GTO I would get KR all the time running the TR5s.
3.42s??
Stock ones??? Getting 1.60's without breaking? HOW? TEACH ME! I was going to drop 2 grand on gears so I can put some tires on without worrying about breaking.
Last edited by mchicia1; Sep 14, 2012 at 10:41 AM.
3 rib diff with 140K miles on it. I bought it here on the forum and rebuilt the posi with the C6 stuff from DTE. I also bit the bullet and bought the 4340 shafts.......
Also, the car is a A4.....so easier on the parts.
Ron
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I'm also fat @ 12.1 so I'm hoping a little tweak will help me out.
I think the converter is holding you back, its just too tight....Seems real tight for a 3600...
I would really expect low 1.50 60's from your combo, the converter is the wild card. Ofcourse its not easy to change converters on these so you will probably live with it but.... I think a converter swap with more flash and better shift recovery and you'll go 10.90s in good air.
You may play around with the AFR at the strip and see what it wants...hell it may want more fuel....you never know.
I have owned a set of Z06 motorsports and they are VERY heavy... I have a stock set of 18x10.5 speedlines in the garage right now and I am amazed at how light they are with no tires....freakishly light.
I bet your Z06 replica/265 radial is an easy 60lbs per wheel.. if not more. Skinnies would net you 2-3 mph.... Just sayin...

I'm like you though, I want to run it how I drive it, with big heavies all around..
I hear ya on the converter. But it is loose enough on the street, I wouldnt like a 4000 even though the car might.
I agree on the AF ratio, same with the timing, need to figure out what the car likes on the track. it is a painfully slow process! If I could build a fire under Ed, I'd have vE to add to the MAF tune and get to a solid baseline. Not there yet! And we are running out of summer.
It took over a year of rubbing on the Nova to shave 3 tenths off, so I'm realistic about the process. And this is new to me.
Besides, wouldn't be any different if it ran 10.90 out of the box, I'd be looking for 10.60's!

The 17" thin spokes with the Hoosiers are flyweight compared to the motorsports and Continentals. While driving with the street tires on, you can tell they are heavy as heck when you his small bumps and the tires hop over them. I'm half tempted to find 4 of the 18" thin spokes and replace the motorsports wheels even though I would have 9.5" on the rear. Or, real Z06 wheels. I think the car would like that a lot. But.......
Skinnies are a possibility, not a ton of money, and I just gots to know.
Always appreciate your comments Alan. When does the Z hit the streets?
Ron
I hear ya on the converter. But it is loose enough on the street, I wouldnt like a 4000 even though the car might.
I agree on the AF ratio, same with the timing, need to figure out what the car likes on the track. it is a painfully slow process! If I could build a fire under Ed, I'd have vE to add to the MAF tune and get to a solid baseline. Not there yet! And we are running out of summer.
It took over a year of rubbing on the Nova to shave 3 tenths off, so I'm realistic about the process. And this is new to me.
Besides, wouldn't be any different if it ran 10.90 out of the box, I'd be looking for 10.60's!

The 17" thin spokes with the Hoosiers are flyweight compared to the motorsports and Continentals. While driving with the street tires on, you can tell they are heavy as heck when you his small bumps and the tires hop over them. I'm half tempted to find 4 of the 18" thin spokes and replace the motorsports wheels even though I would have 9.5" on the rear. Or, real Z06 wheels. I think the car would like that a lot. But.......
Skinnies are a possibility, not a ton of money, and I just gots to know.
Always appreciate your comments Alan. When does the Z hit the streets?
Ron
If you changed all four you might gain 1 tenth, 1-2 mph maybe..... Might not be worth the money but... If you get hungry for ET, there is some.
My 71' with the steel ralleys and 245/60 BFGs up front are 55lbs per wheel/tire combo. Just switching the fronts out to some Weld Magnums and heavy hooser 165 radials (28lbs each) knocks off 1 tenth and gains 2 mph. I did this swap at the track last time out and it instantly gained 2 mph... only about 45lbs in reduction but its spinning weight and less meat in the wind...
We should be starting my Z06 up in the next week or two... It has been a long road... Lots of custom stuff. Still needs a lot of final touches and tuning but..... Its getting closer.





A/F is good on my car from the logs....it's a tad rich, but that's okay I'd rather be a little fat & safe.
Problem ended up being false knock.....instead of 16 degrees of advance at the upper RPM ranges, I was only getting 9 to 9.5 degrees of timing.
The baseline pull was 484 RWHP @ 5741 RPM, 474 RWTQ @ 4916
After the tune was "tweaked" the car layed down 507 RWHP @ 5720, 486 RWTQ @ 4670
Back to the track now.
















