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Just finished up getting a Lingenfelter Lpc-2000 installed. Havent been able to street test due to weather but will take it for a spin tomorrow. The install was very easy once I sorted out where to run the wires and how to rig the on off switch. The car sounds really cool now as well. Even shoots a little fire out as well. Anybody else tried a 2 step on their car? I am curious how this will work out at the track.
Just finished up getting a Lingenfelter Lpc-2000 installed. Havent been able to street test due to weather but will take it for a spin tomorrow. The install was very easy once I sorted out where to run the wires and how to rig the on off switch. The car sounds really cool now as well. Even shoots a little fire out as well. Anybody else tried a 2 step on their car? I am curious how this will work out at the track.
Great for competition racing; however, it will destroy cats and widebands dumping all of that raw fuel.
Did you have any issue with it blowing through off the initial WOT. When testing while in park as I would go wot the rpm would get to 2200 for a brief second then drop down to my preset.
No but mine is an old Harlan 2-step. Possibly something flaky with the trigger? It should not exceed the target. Mine is wired thru the brake pedal and a manual switch, with RPM set right before I push thru the brakes. If it exceeds, I would roll out and red light.
I wired it off the brake lights and put it through a switch. I have it set low as I have some traction issues if I try to launch at 2400. Since it is so low(1700) for testing I figured maybe it just had enough fuel and spark to spin up a few hundred rpm after it start cutting spark. When watching it on the volt meter it dosent seem to be be missing losing power at any time
Wired off the clutch pedal. Will allow rpm down to 2200 rpm. (Have attempted to set it lower but that is its lower limit.) Makes it much easier to focus on the tree and not worry about breaking parts due to excessive rpm.
Wired off the clutch pedal. Will allow rpm down to 2200 rpm. (Have attempted to set it lower but that is its lower limit.) Makes it much easier to focus on the tree and not worry about breaking parts due to excessive rpm.
Getting a lot of delay coming off the brake. Might not work with the wiring on the brake light. I also had to set the box to 2000 to get it to cut out at 1500. This setup might not work out.
Wired off the clutch pedal. Will allow rpm down to 2200 rpm. (Have attempted to set it lower but that is its lower limit.) Makes it much easier to focus on the tree and not worry about breaking parts due to excessive rpm.
I understand what a two-step does with a clutch and I use mine to pull timing if I intend to spray with my automatic.
I'm just curious here but, what are you using the two-step for?
I will be adding some spray and need the box to pull timing. I wanted to play with the two step to get a little better consistency in my launches when bracket racing. Looks like I will be adding a line lock and running the set up off a button in the mean time.
Thanks Gary but I am trying to understand how a N/A automatic will use it for launch control ... I find the N/A automatic is an almost instant throttle response (no spooling) so where is the 2-step come in to help an auto launch?
A trans brake would be my perferance but I still couldn't justify it ...
** edit
I just re-read this OP - I don't know what size your converter is but a simpler way of setting your rpms while on the converter is to have a shift light installed at a specific launch rpm, I have one set up in the 04. Are you going DEEP when running brackets, if so, how are you working a button into it? Also, I assumed if you were already running brackets that you had a line-lok, heating the tires IMHO is a key to consistency.
Last edited by Rob Petyo; Feb 27, 2014 at 04:45 PM.
3600 stall. I can go to 2400 on the brake but traction is an issue above 2000. I do not stage deep. I trip the beams as slightly as possible. The car does not have a line lock yet. If I did I would have it wired with a momentary switch. As of now I am wired off the brake light to a toggle switch. When it is armed the 2 step is activated anytime the brake is applied. I just flip the switch off after leaving. Not sure if the delay I am feeling is from the step being set low( been playing with it at 1500 for now) or if the delay is from the brake light activation.
It also feels like the car dosent load up the suspension when using the step, maybe I just need to find the point where it is going o push through the brakes and try it there.
As far as the line lock and burn outs go, the brakes and rotors were shot when I got the car, just going to keep wearing them out and will replace when I put the line lock on.
The car is consistent and is competitive against the full on racecars. The track here dosent have a DOT class so most of the 60+ car field are didicated bracket cars. I just wanted I play with the set up and try something new. Need the 2step/retard box for when I add a small dry shot any way.
Why is traction an issue above 2000?
Sounds like you could lower the pressure a half lb at a time until it hooks... Have you tried this?
I have no idea why you're getting a delay and cannot understand the benefit of using a two step in an auto when you are foot-braking. How would you 'bump' deep?
You would have a more consistent launch with these three things:
1. line lock and heating the tires up
2. keeping the pressure adjusted
3. going deep on the tree.
Last edited by Rob Petyo; Mar 3, 2014 at 07:28 PM.
Traction is an issue because of the narrow tire getting into its 3rd season. I have played with the pressure and have that good. Getting high 1.5 60s. Burnouts are always done the same for consistency. Not sure I follow you with the deep staging, I always stage as shallow as i can to make sure the car is at the same point every time.
Part of the reason for trying this set up is because my track started allowing trans brakes and 2steps to run in foot brake. Wanted to try it out and see if it had any advantage and I was putting a timing box on the car anyway. I know of some guys running the two step box with a line lock setup with sucess. Figured I could pull it off still using the brake pedal instead of a button. I have 3 more weeks at work but when I get home I will try and get some testing done at the track.
Did you ever get this sorted out? I have a LNC-2000 I plan to use for the same purpose and setup off the brake lights (and my line lock off a momentary switch). Did the same thing in my last car and made for consistent .030 lights or better everytime.
I wired it off the brake lights and put it through a switch. I have it set low as I have some traction issues if I try to launch at 2400. Since it is so low(1700) for testing I figured maybe it just had enough fuel and spark to spin up a few hundred rpm after it start cutting spark. When watching it on the volt meter it dosent seem to be be missing losing power at any time
That's pretty much how I hooked up my MSD 2 step. Off the brake light switch. As soon as I leave , I flip the toggle switch in the arm rest so I don't activate it on deceleration.