I just got a good laugh out of that. My dad recently started a repower on our sportfish adding a pair of 450c cummins and new transmissions. When getting ready to pay for it he casually told me how he was happy I was too dumb for college. He was obviously joking but I thought it was funny.

What cam you looking at? When it was all said and done i spent about 1700 for my cam swap not including tuning. Since I have such a high mile motor I replaced everything I could while inside. Springs, seals, trunion upgrade, oil pump, timing set lifters, trays, pushrods, and a new crank pully. I can tell you now the power steering on the c5 makes the cam swap a real pita.

With the economy as bad as it is right now my car isn't getting anything changed for the 2016 season. I have set up plans to pull the drive line out this time next year. Rebuild the motor wile retaining most of what it has now. Just all new bearings, rods and pistons. Addin head and header studs as well for future mods. Replace torque tube bearings and coupler, have the converter brought up to 4400-4600( I think I have 1-2 tenths to be gained there) Full racetras build by circle D and rebuilding the dif with C5Z shafts and putting a spool in it. It's a fair bit if money but will be nice to have fresh equipment for the first time.
The transmission is the biggest part of it.

 

I kill a bit of the gear with a tall 27.2' tire. If the street r would have been out when I bought tires I would have gotten them in a 28 and tried to make them fit. I know it slows the car down compared to a 275 but being a bracket car I had to prioritize traction.

 

I kick myself for not putting a 4.10 gear in ours. We run a 3.90 with a 295/50/16 Hoosier DR which IIRC is just shy of 28". Car consistently will 60' 1.5x as long as the track isn't junk. We put the 3.90 in when we were driving it on the street more which we seldom do now.

Yes, cam changes are a blast on these cars. We have done one already when we put in the stock lift/stock duration cam from Bullet thinking we would run IHRA Stock Eliminator (Pure Stock). The car is fast for that class and would the quickest B/PS but we don't want to travel or potentially play the "tear down" game. Not that we aren't legal (cam is actually too SMALL ... long story) but I don't carry enough tools to a race to pull a head and/or piston/rod and have no interest in doing that at the track.

I've researched cams and have concluded that there is NOT one magic stick and many will be fine. It kind of depends who you ask and what day of the week it is. Martin at Tick Performance has been very good to me putting up with my emails and phone calls; customer service is a big deal to me. I plan to go with the SNS torqueMAX Stage 3 along with BTR springs, Morel lifters, FAST 92, LS2 TB, FAST 36 lb. injectors, new oil pump and timing chain, etc. I've calculated everything to be around $2500 but I'll be able to recoup some of my cost by selling my LS6 intake and Bullet cam hopefully. If I come in at $2K I'll be happy.

Eventually then if we don't meet our goals we'll call Brian for a set of heads. I know it makes sense to do it all at once but if we can run a 10.9x with the stock 241 heads (and good springs) and then spray our way into the 9s I'll be happy and save over $2300.

Scott

 

Any rubbing with the 28'? When this set wears out I plan on running a similar size tire.

I can't blame you on not wanting to deal with class racing. I would love to run a stocker but the cost are out of controll and there is no way I am tearing down a engine at a race. I am continent running Footbrake. I do run with the electronic cars if its a 1 day race just for the extra passes. Surprisingly I win a round every once in a while against them. If I don't go back to work before this Saturday and the DA gets at or below 1000' I am going to HMP to try my hand at 7.0 index. Any higher on the da and the car will be too slow to be compatible.

I forgot about the injectors. I was caught off guard after the cam swap. Injectors maxed out around 360whp. The 2000 model c5 had the small 26lb injectors. The shop only had a old set of ford Svo red tops that came out of the owners old car, so I ended up buying them so I didn't have to make another trip to the tuner.

One thing I didnt do when I did the cam swap, and I kick myself for not doing it was to install some .040 cometic head gaskets. Might have only been good for 5hp but I didnt do it and kick myself. That and I should have installed head studs for easier head swaps down the road.

 

While I don't want to derail this thread, it seems it's already taken a turn down that road...

Scott, you need a new converter. If you're not staying class racing, changing the cam would be a good thing too... But, you need a new converter. Your car should be a lot quicker than it is.

I'm a big fan of Yank, but something is off on that converter. Call Dave and get him to rework it.

 

I completely agree and am not opposed to pulling it out to get it restalled. What do you think it needs reworked to? The converter was the very first thing I bought when we decided to drop off the deep end and begin the endless modding process. It was a very low mileage unit and I got a great deal on it. IIRC it took a second off the ET along with the 3.90 gears and a set of BFG DRs.

Scott

 

No rubbing at all. Although we have removed the stock inner fender liners. The car is also lowered on stock bolts; no fitment issues at all.

Where are you located and where do you race? My wife and I are always up for a road trip and love to race at different places.

Scott

 

Nice run. I have similar hp but no gears and no stall. but that's my next step.

 

I agree with Pete, Scott. My heavy truck was pulling 1.53 sixty foot times with a tight Yank 3600 Pro (big azz converter). I switched to the SS 3600 which is loose, and still pulling the same sixty foot times.
A 4000 should be hitting hard....not that a 1.50 sixty is a joke. You should be able to get her in the mid to low 1.4's at least.

 

Great run