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Im looking to make more power i want to make as much power as possible while still being able to grab the keys and drive to the next state over if need be. My vette is an 03 automatic, base model with the LS1. Right now im trying to plan everything out and lay the base plan so I can just pull the trigger and get to work, Now before anything ill go back and redo all the fluids and all the maintenance to make sure my car is in tip top shape before getting started. The question is can i make 500-600 to the wheel with the stock bottom end and whats the best recommended way to do so, i was thinking Heads/Cam/Intake, and ive looked into a procharger but im also not 100% sure it makes sense to procharge it on a Head/Cam build on top of will my stock bottom end reliably hold that.
It is more about your budget. You can build a reliable 2,000 hp turbo car with the right funding. How much are you willing to spend and we can chime in on how much power you can afford.
It is more about your budget. You can build a reliable 2,000 hp turbo car with the right funding. How much are you willing to spend and we can chime in on how much power you can afford.
Ten k is a tough budget because you are going to eat up much of your non in supporting mods before you buy any parts that make you substantial hp gains. honestly your best hp per dollar will be to supercharge the car and that will about completely use your budget.
if you want to stay n/a you will not be able to afford a full exhaust, heads, cam, injectors, intake, and tune especially if you are paying for labor. Heads is where your power is made but they need all the other supporting mods to work properly.
Ten k is a tough budget if you want to stay n/a you will not be able to afford a full exhaust, heads, cam, injectors, intake, and tune especially if you are paying for labor. Heads is where your power is made but they need all the other supporting mods to work properly.
In all honesty 10k was just a start number, my main goal is to have a daily drivable race car cause who doesn’t want to drive their race car. Ultimately and this is just me personally i think staying n/a is more important than anything just cause s/c’s and what not feels like im cheating lmao and i want to do as much of the labor as I possibly can that being said I can wiggle with the budget if need be
In all honesty 10k was just a start number, my main goal is to have a daily drivable race car cause who doesn’t want to drive their race car. Ultimately and this is just me personally i think staying n/a is more important than anything just cause s/c’s and what not feels like im cheating lmao and i want to do as much of the labor as I possibly can that being said I can wiggle with the budget if need be
if you want to stay n/a start at figuring out your end goal so you are not buying parts twice. For example you will choose different head’s depending on what fuel you want to run (e85 is tolerant to higher compression but not available everywhere) you may choose different header primaries depending on your end power goal. Do you want to stay on oem ecu or convert to something like a Holley.
if you want to stay n/a start at figuring out your end goal so you are not buying parts twice. For example you will choose different head’s depending on what fuel you want to run (e85 is tolerant to higher compression but not available everywhere) you may choose different header primaries depending on your end power goal. Do you want to stay on oem ecu or convert to something like a Holley.
Well my end goal is to stay on 93, i want to be at like 400-500 hp to the wheel which my guess is like 600/650 to the crank and i think being that my car is an 03 the ecu should be able to handle that
Last edited by EtrnllyTired; May 4, 2023 at 10:48 AM.
Well my end goal is to stay on 93, i want to be at like 400-500 hp to the wheel which my guess is like 600/650 to the crank and i think being that my car is an 01 the ecu should be able to handle that
your goal is attainable hp wise since you are staying on stock computer you will most likely need hp tuners. If I was in your shoes I may start with the bolt on stuff first and then go in to the bigger stuff like heads and cam later. Headers, x pipe, axle back, cold air intake, intake manifold, trunion upgrade, throttle body, injectors, and a tune will get most all of your supporting mods out of the way and will have your initial budget used up. Then you will have time to study what heads and cam you want while you prepare for the next round of mods. Remember camshaft choice is a big deal and just getting the one with the most lift and duration is almost always the wrong choice. You want the cam that will make the most torque through the whole rpm range.
Well my end goal is to stay on 93, i want to be at like 400-500 hp to the wheel which my guess is like 600/650 to the crank and i think being that my car is an 01 the ecu should be able to handle that
If your "goal is to stay on 93" you may want to spend the $10k budget on relocating out of LV to a state that sells 93 octane fuel.
your goal is attainable hp wise since you are staying on stock computer you will most likely need hp tuners. If I was in your shoes I may start with the bolt on stuff first and then go in to the bigger stuff like heads and cam later. Headers, x pipe, axle back, cold air intake, intake manifold, trunion upgrade, throttle body, injectors, and a tune will get most all of your supporting mods out of the way and will have your initial budget used up. Then you will have time to study what heads and cam you want while you prepare for the next round of mods. Remember camshaft choice is a big deal and just getting the one with the most lift and duration is almost always the wrong choice. You want the cam that will make the most torque through the whole rpm range.
that’s probably the route ill take just because after doing all that i can understand what my personal car will need and not what the “best” parts are or what other cars took
Well my end goal is to stay on 93, i want to be at like 400-500 hp to the wheel which my guess is like 600/650 to the crank and i think being that my car is an 03 the ecu should be able to handle that
Closer to 400whp, you should be able to get there with your budget. Closer to 500whp, You're gonna test that budget and will need to make good decisions. Going the NA route of course. What's your end goal for how you use the car? Street warrior, daily driver, Drag car, track car?
For all of the above except track car, I would vote for a blower. Keep your internals stock and enjoy.
Closer to 400whp, you should be able to get there with your budget. Closer to 500whp, You're gonna test that budget and will need to make good decisions. Going the NA route of course. What's your end goal for how you use the car? Street warrior, daily driver, Drag car, track car?
For all of the above except track car, I would vote for a blower. Keep your internals stock and enjoy.
My end goal for use of the car is a daily driving street warrior
What is your differential ratio?
The #1 piece of data in order to spec a NA daily driver engine build for an automatic
is diff ratio & torque converter stall and if you are willing to change it.
For example going from a 2.73 to a 3.42 with a small 2800-3200 stall
or from a 3.15 to a 3.90 with a 3200-3600 stall will make your engine feel
30-40% larger in the same power band with no loss in dd for less than
1/2 of what the engine mods would cost.
That would be a great place to start along with headers, exhaust, cold/ram air intake
(like Vara-Ram) would add another 30-50 (with a tune).
You will need AT Least 3.15s and 2800 stall for a cam over ~ 225* intake duration,
and the sweet spot for a dd friendly ls1 is 225-230* maybe 232* with an auto.
Just my .02
Cam, headers, blower and torque converter will get you that (fuel upgrades obviously). you can make 500-600 all day on just 93. my procharged c5z makes 624 on just 93, no meth and isnt even tuned aggressively. its crazy reliable and gets great mpg highway. if i was you, id start with a blower kit, exhaust and go from there. theres some sponsor in the forced induction threads advertising supercharger kit installed for like $6100 or something.
I agree with the gears and converter, did an RPM 3.73 and yank 3200 last year. Car pulls harder in every gear. Stay with a 3200 stall. Even at 340 wheel horse, this combo can light street tires up. On a 50degree day, sometimes my tires will light up halfway through 2nd gear before she regains grip. And I’m running a 305 tire. A 3600 or 4000 stall, expect to have a drag radial with the power level your looking for.
Cam, headers, blower and torque converter will get you that (fuel upgrades obviously). you can make 500-600 all day on just 93. my procharged c5z makes 624 on just 93, no meth and isnt even tuned aggressively. its crazy reliable and gets great mpg highway. if i was you, id start with a blower kit, exhaust and go from there. theres some sponsor in the forced induction threads advertising supercharger kit installed for like $6100 or something.
im doing a lot of looking into A&A, but pretty much what you have going on is exactly what i want and what im shooting for
A&A kit, xpipe/headers, & tune is all you need. Maybe add the Aux pump kit from DSX. If you do a supercharger, add in the catch can.
Guaranteed 600whp.