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Just thought I would post my slips for analytics and/or roasting.
Its a 99 FRC with TSP heads and 224R cam, LS6 manifold, full exhaust with long tubes, 275/40R17 M/T Street S/S. The rest is pretty much stock.
Obviously I need more practice launching. But I really didn't want to kill the clutch or break anything.
4th pass was my best 60f and ET, but on that pass and the 5th pass the trans really did not want to shift at 6500. I am guessing it's a clutch hydraulic issue.
Bright spot I see is the 30mph gain in the top 1/8th for the earlier passes.
Let me know your thoughts.
Thank you.
Going to be hard to get much faster in the 60 without a the risk of breaking as long as you're on a radial and being careful. A bias ply can easily get you into the 1.7s which would probably be worth a full second of ET or more in this case. What altitude are you at? I would expect a heads/cam car to have more mph than that, even with a little cam like a 224R
Thank you.
Track altitude is about 350ft. DA is in the sheet above.
Yeah I suspect it is a little slow. I am not sure how much the delay in shifting has to do with that, if it all.
Thank you.
Track altitude is about 350ft. DA is in the sheet above.
Yeah I suspect it is a little slow. I am not sure how much the delay in shifting has to do with that, if it all.
You would be surprised how shift speed can and does affect both trap speed and ET.
Originally Posted by INSTIG8R
Going to be hard to get much faster in the 60 without a the risk of breaking as long as you're on a radial and being careful. A bias ply can easily get you into the 1.7s which would probably be worth a full second of ET or more in this case. What altitude are you at? I would expect a heads/cam car to have more mph than that, even with a little cam like a 224R
I agree that there is always a chance of breakage whenever the car is raced; especially if you get into wheel hop. The stock clutch is usually pretty safe and slips instead of biting hard. With that said, I have found that the original GY SC tires on the Zs were capable of mid 1.7s to low 1.8s with a lot of practice utilizing the correct launch technique. A DR is capable of more but can be safely launched fairly easily into the 1.7s; again, using proper technique. If using a bias ply slick, OP would need a skinny up front to mitigate the death wobble. The bias ply tire is very forgiving, and I agree that it's the safest way to go and produce the best 60's.
You would be surprised how shift speed can and does affect both trap speed and ET.
Good to know. Before and after the day at the track I changed as much hydraulic fluid as I could. I don't have a bleeder installed but I pulled a vacuum on the system and got a few bubbles out. There is a small improvement, but still not great. I have a Tick master cylinder I will be putting over the winter or if I run out of things to do some weekend. Hopefully that will help.
Originally Posted by GARY2004Z06
I agree that there is always a chance of breakage whenever the car is raced; especially if you get into wheel hop. The stock clutch is usually pretty safe and slips instead of biting hard. With that said, I have found that the original GY SC tires on the Zs were capable of mid 1.7s to low 1.8s with a lot of practice utilizing the correct launch technique. A DR is capable of more but can be safely launched fairly easily into the 1.7s; again, using proper technique. If using a bias ply slick, OP would need a skinny up front to mitigate the death wobble. The bias ply tire is very forgiving, and I agree that it's the safest way to go and produce the best 60's.
Coming from the FWD world, I do know all about how destructive wheel hop can be, and the advantage of a bias ply over a radial, especially with a manual trans. I was just running what I had and didn't want to trailer it. I would definitely invest in some QuickTimes or similar if I were going to be racing more. I knew it wouldn't 60ft great. Was just hoping for bit better with the upgrades. Maybe a high 12 @115-117. Maybe when it doesn't shift like a dump truck I can get there lol. Was also thinking about changing the rear gears since the trans is leaking at the diff. Maybe that might help me lauch it easy without bogging it hard like I have been.
Make sure to check the diff for cracks while you are looking at it.
Although unlikely, they do crack.
FWIW, I would always swap out the 3.42 gears to 4.10s when doing any N/A build.
You'll still need to mitigate the bog by a controlled slip of the clutch, but the torque multiplication will definitely help.
You will also stay in the engine's powerband longer by using 4th gear.
When going to a Tick Master, you should get a pedal stop to control clutch throw.
The addition of a remote bleeder is worth its weight in gold.
Make sure to check the diff for cracks while you are looking at it.
Although unlikely, they do crack.
FWIW, I would always swap out the 3.42 gears to 4.10s when doing any N/A build.
You'll still need to mitigate the bog by a controlled slip of the clutch, but the torque multiplication will definitely help.
You will also stay in the engine's powerband longer by using 4th gear.
When going to a Tick Master, you should get a pedal stop to control clutch throw.
The addition of a remote bleeder is worth its weight in gold.
Thank you for the additional info, Gary. I'll look into the pedal stop. When the time comes for a clutch, it will definitely get the remote bleeder.
Time and mph seem low for what you have. First off, im in IL, my c5 is an auto, bolt ons only, headers, air intake, exhaust, 3.73 gears, 3200 stall. On street tires,
Best run ever.
60 foot 1.97
1/8 mile 8.0 @87 mph
1/4 mile 12.5 @ 111
I think you need more seat time with that manual.
Last edited by Beast; Sep 21, 2024 at 08:32 AM.
Reason: Added content
First Time out with new top end
