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Port matching intake. Need suggestions

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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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Default Port matching intake. Need suggestions

I have about 3/16" to take out across the bottom of the port. It needs to go all the way back to the floor of the intake. I am using a dremal but it is slow going. Used 6 bits to do the first port and it took about 45 minutes. Any better options out there? I don't have access to machine shop tools but have pretty much all basic hand tools.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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What type of bits?
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Air/electric die grinder is much better. Summit Automotive has a kit for die grinders with everything you need for porting/polishing.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Any hardware store will have ball grinders of various types. Chuck one up in a high speed air grinder and you're set. Here is one from Ace Hardware:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...archId=1259453
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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if you have air harbor fright has die grinders for like 10$ , you"d be way ahead of the game with a die grinder !
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 04:38 PM
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I'll also agree on the die grinder being the best option Kev. Even if it's an electric one!! W.W. Grainger has numerous coarse to fine cut 4" to 6" long burr's that are tailor made for porting aluminum. Summit & Jegs also offer porting burr kits if your so inclined.
Grind away my friend...
Eddie
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
Any hardware store will have ball grinders of various types. Chuck one up in a high speed air grinder and you're set. Here is one from Ace Hardware:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...archId=1259453
Yup...using the 1/4 shank rotary files and one of these electric die grinders you can pocket port heads and port match anything you want.
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...nder&Submit=Go

It seems they were recently on sale for $29.99, but they keep the prices bouncing around. I wait and buy when the price is so low I can't afford not to have the item. I bought one at $29 as a back-up to my old Craftsman unit. The air die grinders make too much noise for me.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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I just recently managed using a dremel bit, the cutter type that looks like a cylinder with two sharp blades sticking out and quarter inch diameter. I only went back an inch and a half though. Still had to emery smooth everything.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 08:16 PM
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Keep some wax on the cutter and the aluminum wont stick to it. Makes it a lot easier.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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You can use the above mentioned cutting tool in a electric drill motor if you don't have or don't want to buy a die grinder. It would be a little slower, but will work.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by redwingvette
Keep some wax on the cutter and the aluminum wont stick to it. Makes it a lot easier.
Aluminum cutting bits have much larger flukes
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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Die grinder works like a charm

And something like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3745

Last edited by Yellow73SB; Feb 16, 2007 at 11:42 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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What you need is an electric or air die grinder and a carbide burr designed for aluminum. It will take you only minutes to do what it took you hours to do with a dremel tool. Where googles / safety glasses as the chips will fly!
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 01:00 AM
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I got to thinking, were are all telling what is needed. But what we are failing is to tell you that you might be dorking up a good intake. For intakes to work, that is have any tuned ram effect has to get consistatly smaller all the way to the intake valve.

Going from small intake track to larger head causes fuel/air sepparation.

3/16ths is alot of mismatch.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I got to thinking, were are all telling what is needed. But what we are failing is to tell you that you might be dorking up a good intake. For intakes to work, that is have any tuned ram effect has to get consistatly smaller all the way to the intake valve.

Going from small intake track to larger head causes fuel/air sepparation.

3/16ths is alot of mismatch.
The intake is an Offenhauser 360 split single plane tripower. The runners are short, equal distance and go into a chamber that is accessed by all three carbs. There is a center plenum separating the right and left sides but there are also openings machined in the plenum to tie the two sides together. I am only taking enough material out of the floor of the port to match with the head intake port. They are AFR 190 heads so I should still maintain good port velocity. Should be more efficient with matched ports than a restriction 3/16 high at the entance to the head. There is a lot of meat around the port of the intake, seems like this is designed this way to allow port matching.

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 17, 2007 at 01:39 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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I used my Makita 25,000 rpm die grinder for years. I also bought an air die grinder. Much cheaper if you have air tools. You can buy aluminum or iron cutting bits with shafts 6 inches long. My favorite aluminum bit is a one inch long conical in shape.

The bits are what cost all the money. Trying to use sand stone is stupid
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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And don't forget...the port opening has to be blended smoothly 1.5" up the runner. Here's a great article for those thinking about doing it.
http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...cid=5&scccid=5
Good luck Kevin.
Eddie
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To Port matching intake. Need suggestions

Old Feb 17, 2007 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Edzred72
And don't forget...the port opening has to be blended smoothly 1.5" up the runner. Here's a great article for those thinking about doing it.
http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...cid=5&scccid=5
Good luck Kevin.
Eddie
Thanks Eddie! Good read. My ports look almost exactly like the ports in picture 2. Same amount of material to remove at the bottom. The intake has really short runners that open as they go toward the plenum so it will be a piece of cake to blend. When is the dyno run? Let me know, if it works with my schedule, I would like to see it. I have had intakes port matched on previous builds but always at the machine shop. Figured I would do this one myself since my build costs have gone way over budget!!
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Thanks Eddie! Good read. ..... When is the dyno run? Let me know, if it works with my schedule, I would like to see it...... Figured I would do this one myself since my build costs have gone way over budget!!
My pleasure Kevin.
Engine was prepped yesterday and the Dyno Run is @ noon today. Just found out yesterday. I am going there is an hour or so to watch a few pulls. Very nervous....hope it doesn't blow up You'll be the FIRST to know the results.
UH...whats that word you used in your post..."BUDGET" ??????
Does that mean "out the door"...."through the roof"...."down the drain"

Eddie
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Edzred72
My pleasure Kevin.
Engine was prepped yesterday and the Dyno Run is @ noon today. Just found out yesterday. I am going there is an hour or so to watch a few pulls. Very nervous....hope it doesn't blow up You'll be the FIRST to know the results.
UH...whats that word you used in your post..."BUDGET" ??????
Does that mean "out the door"...."through the roof"...."down the drain"

Eddie
Some shots of the ports. Before and after. Bought the right fluted bits and a new 2 amp dremel. Worked pretty good!
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