Well from what I can tell, YOUR RIGHT! I called ES and asked about the Poly MM's and they said still in development. Not quite done.............I even went to where I KNEW I saw Solid motor mounts for C4 Corvettes:

http://www.lmperformance.com/18885/25.html

Check and see what it says:
> Home > Corvette C4 1984-1992 > Suspension > Spohn 998 - Spohn Solid Motor Mounts - SBC / BBC (pair) 1982-92 F-Body, 1978-87 G-Body. So it takes you to a 92 Vette, then back to an F and G body after you get to motor mounts.

Here's my last peice of crap to all of this:
Spohn Solid Motor Mounts - SBC / BBC (pair) 1982-92 F-Body, 1978-87 G-Body 0018885 $65.00 Corvette C4 1984-1992

It just doesn't make any sense........Sorry Dude! Goodluck and I"ll keep looking.

Noland

 

I just fabbed up solid mounts for my '96. The design is pretty simple for a solid. about 1-2 hours of work, a cuttoff wheel, grinder, welder, some 3/16 plate steel and 1/2" ID steel bushing stock was all it took (sounds worse than it was).

 

I thought about making some solids, but that will make it harder to stab the trans if the engine won't tilt back.


I think I found some solid rubber ones at OReilly's. They are on order, and I'll post up if I get them.

 

You're right -- I just instaled my trans a week ago and it was a little harder than normal because of the angle. I had to loosen the lower (vertical) mount bolt to get the proper tilt.

 

Just a few pics of some of the preliminary block work.

Before I hot tank the block it is always easier to get the rod clearancing, the oil returns enlarged and the rear main cap oil galley feed enlarged/radiusing out of the way. I still have to tap and plug the small oil returns over the camshaft.









Because some folks might not know... When you use AFR cyl heads on an GEN II LTX, the front drivers side cyl heads oil return gets blocked off completely because of a shelf (its actually a casting support for the waterpump bolt) that is cast in to the GEN II blocks (not there in a regular SBC). So we don't have any problems I modify that shelf so, oil will drain out of the front of the head properly. Most people who are having or had problems with AFR's on LTX motors don't even know this is a big part of their problem....





I have started port matching the stock LT4 intake. The intake port opening is small on the AFR 195 Elims. There was more work in getting the cross sectional taper the correct size in the intake ports than fixing the actual opening (The casting quality was horrid on this particular LT4 intake). A stock LT4 intake gasket was actually the correct size to make the intake a smidgen smaller than the AFR 195 Elim cyl head port and still have the port allignment correct. The TB opening was opend up for a Monoblade (if he ever decides to try one) but will still work with any current TB oversize. I still have to go and do my final polishing o put the correct surface texture/finish in the intake ports but I'm out of 120gr cartridge rolls...







More pics will follow after I get it cleaned, decked and bored/honed.
Will

 

Will, any new updates on the intake or block?......I'm VERY excited about and interested in knowing how the work on the intake is going. Also, what holes do you have to plug? And why are the holes on the front of the block near the cam opened up larger?

N

 

Update yes, but not on the intake.

The holes I needed to tap in the block are the small ones directly between and slightly above the lifter bores. I have completed tapping them (1/4NPT).

The reason the 4 corner oil returns are enlarged so much is 2 fold. It goes hand in hand with plugging the small holes between/above the lifter bores.

1)It reduces windage in the crank case. As desgined from GM returning oil runs down those small holes between the lifter bores and drops back down on the spinning camshaft. It then gets slug around the underside of the block (cam tunnel) and so forth, creating a very fine oil mist (know as windage) that when combined with the windage created from the spinning crankshaft and rods (just below it) creates a lot of parasitic drag, hurting HP output in a race engine.

2)Since oil is no longer getting slung around in the cam tunnel it can actually make its way back to the oil sump. The fastest and most direct way there is the 4 corner holes, so I enlarge them and shape them to aid this as much as possible. That oil is much more useful to the brgs under pressure from the pump than getting slung around in the rotating assy...

Keeping windage in check in a high performance engine never gets the attention it deserves from most engine builders. Probally because it is very labor intensive and the gains are minimal (combined with a good pan its worth about 6HP or so on a 650ish HP engine). BTW when I say labor intensive, I mean there is about 6hrs worth or work, just in lifter valley of your block. However the more HP you make, the more RPM you turn, the more important this work becomes. This is why only top tier engine builders (or former top tier engine builders ) even bother to do it. Most people have never competed on a level where 6HP is the difference between qualifying number 1 and not even making the show.
Will

 

Good stuff reckless, keep it coming. Good to see others possessed in going above and beyond the usual build steps. Youll never get that type of stuff with a "crate" motor.

Had a bright idea awhile back myself, black boogers for a week.

 

Thanks for posting that.

I've just bought some AFR heads and didn't know that.

Do you have more details?

 

Well, 8 days later and I finally got some. OReillys came through and found a pair of solid rubber mounts. They look identical to a factory, oil filled mount, except no oil!

Brand: Anchor
Part number: 2902SR

I'm not sure how they will perform, but I have high hopes.

 

Sorry, I didn't take any pics of the block deck surface and the shelf there before I modified it (cut the trench in it for the oil return). I guess it kinda makes it hard to see precisely what I did.

However if you take an AFR head and lay it on a bare LTx block then look down the drivers side front oil return, it will immeadiatly be aparant that its blocked off completely. I just took a sharpie (marker) and marked the deck surface where the oil return (with the head on of course), then took the head off and started cutting. Just lay the carbide bur (3/8 diam) up against the edge of that shelf at a 30*-45* angle towards the lifter valley and gradually grind a "trench" over to the mark. Once you reach your mark, lay the head back up there to check and make sure you have it big enough and far enough over. Keep grinding and checking until you do.

These pics with the die grinder in place should help.





No worries about how deep you grind there, that shelf is solid... BUT be very careful as one slip could f'up the deck surface right near the water inlet (which as you can see is right below the bur).

What else would you like to know?
Will

 

Nice looking job and while you are grinding lay your head gasket on the deck and you will see there are 7 places near the water holes that have to be matched to the head gasket.

 

Here are some interestings pics of a Dart Little-M block one of customers wanted lightened and by time we bore it to 4.135, decked to 9.000, lifter bores .875 and machined the cam tunnel for 50MM roller cam bearings it was almost 40 pounds lighter from where is started at 210 pounds.

 

Holy cr4p BLOCKMAN.

 

I think I need some alone-time...

 

Me Too

 

There are some guys we do work for that really **** over weight.

 

Ron I sent you a PM

Here is a pic that will show how much grinding that will have to be done on the decks as the 3 lower water holes will have to touched up the center one is the worst and the upper center one needs grinding on both sides of the hole and the 2 holes on the rear just need just a little touch up.

It really sucks that Dart does no publisize this in there instructions but it has to be done.

 

Thanks rklessdriver!

I would have found out about that the hard way out on a road course.

I put a post up in the road racing section, just to let people know
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2057541


WOW

 

A few other things to look for on Dart blocks is the lifter bores are sometimes 2 or 3 tenths under the low side of the GM spec and we have found the main lines to under the low side as well more so after the bolts are relubed and torqued.

Good luck with your build Carl