C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LT-4 383 Rebuild "LOTS of Pictures"

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Old 11-05-2009, 08:14 PM
  #341  
lenbal
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great info, good luck keep us info on your progress. how are you going to fight the battle of the Optispark???

Has anyone put an LS1 or 6 in a 95 M6. any info would appreciated. that is my plan for a winter project...
Old 11-05-2009, 08:23 PM
  #342  
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Originally Posted by lenbal
great info, good luck keep us info on your progress. how are you going to fight the battle of the Optispark???

Has anyone put an LS1 or 6 in a 95 M6. any info would appreciated. that is my plan for a winter project...
It's never been done. Ever. No one on CorvetteForum has even thought of that.

Here are a bunch of threads about that topic. The search function: it works.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...rspective.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ith-4l60e.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-6-0-swap.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...o-my-85-a.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-ls1-swap.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...game-plan.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...s1-t56-c4.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...2-into-c4.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-zf-trans.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-in-a-c4.html
Old 11-07-2009, 03:18 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by BlackHarleyMan
Carl,
Just so you don't have to hurt yourself looking for it, here ya go!




Noland
I may have missed this but where did you get the valve covers??? and will they clear 1.6 rockers.. please tell me...PM post...
Old 11-07-2009, 08:28 PM
  #344  
Bluewasp
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Originally Posted by gaeecho9r
I may have missed this but where did you get the valve covers??? and will they clear 1.6 rockers.. please tell me...PM post...


I would hold off buying those valve covers. I've heard from several folks they hard to get sealed up right. Lots of oil leaks.
Old 11-07-2009, 09:09 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by Bluewasp
I would hold off buying those valve covers. I've heard from several folks they hard to get sealed up right. Lots of oil leaks.
Wasp -

You got to see that one in person, leaking like a SOB.

I finally figured out how to fix it.




gaeecho9r -

Don't waste your money (and they were a lot). I had nothing but problems out of those carbon rocker covers. I practically gave them away and was glad to see them go.

After a little modification (for altenator clearance) my current Moroso sheetmetal rocker covers have been leak free for over a year.
Will

Last edited by rklessdriver; 11-07-2009 at 09:11 PM.
Old 11-07-2009, 09:43 PM
  #346  
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Originally Posted by rklessdriver
Sorry, I didn't take any pics of the block deck surface and the shelf there before I modified it (cut the trench in it for the oil return). I guess it kinda makes it hard to see precisely what I did.

However if you take an AFR head and lay it on a bare LTx block then look down the drivers side front oil return, it will immeadiatly be aparant that its blocked off completely. I just took a sharpie (marker) and marked the deck surface where the oil return (with the head on of course), then took the head off and started cutting. Just lay the carbide bur (3/8 diam) up against the edge of that shelf at a 30*-45* angle towards the lifter valley and gradually grind a "trench" over to the mark. Once you reach your mark, lay the head back up there to check and make sure you have it big enough and far enough over. Keep grinding and checking until you do.

These pics with the die grinder in place should help.





No worries about how deep you grind there, that shelf is solid... BUT be very careful as one slip could f'up the deck surface right near the water inlet (which as you can see is right below the bur).

What else would you like to know?
Will
I see this with afr heads to me is a design mistake..I have not heard about trickflow or dart heads needing this to be done..why would they design the head were you must grind the block back for oil passage i do not understand.?? and the intake does not line up.. seems as if they perform great but require the buyer to do alot of finishing work to make them work.. for 1800 - 2000 bucks they need to be bolt on no troubles..
Old 11-09-2009, 07:59 PM
  #347  
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Originally Posted by gaeecho9r
I see this with afr heads to me is a design mistake..I have not heard about trickflow or dart heads needing this to be done..why would they design the head were you must grind the block back for oil passage i do not understand.?? and the intake does not line up.. seems as if they perform great but require the buyer to do alot of finishing work to make them work.. for 1800 - 2000 bucks they need to be bolt on no troubles..
If you look at the block you can see where the oil return on the stock cyl heads was partially blocked. Right where that entire black imprint on the deck surface is I'm grinding on... All LTX cyl heads have the problem to some degree. AFR just uses conventional SBC oil returns so that there is more meat in the casting for strength around the outer head bolt and coolant transfer hole there. Hence you have to grind the block a little. It's really not a big deal. Took me longer to take those pic's than it did to grind the bulkhead.

Where did you see the intake manifold not line up?? The ports lined up perfectly with very little port matching. I did have to grind the top of the outside of the manifold becasue the cyl heads V/C rail was touching it. That is most likely becasue I decked the bock a good bit to get the pistons where I wanted them. Nothing lines up perfectly after you have altered the blocks deck height.

Very minor stuff for me to correct. I was actually amazed, I didn't have to do more fitting.
Will

Last edited by rklessdriver; 11-09-2009 at 08:02 PM.
Old 07-06-2010, 10:51 PM
  #348  
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any sugestions for a new build up? I would like 500 rwhp on a 94 coupe / auto . I keep hearing " go with a 396 " but I think a 383 would be more streetable motor than a 396..

These vettes deserve much more power ... i guess back on the mid 90's , having 300 hp was amazing ha?

please , I am open to sugestions and I dont have a lot of money,
Old 07-18-2010, 08:39 PM
  #349  
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just a quick questions if you dont mind me asking ...... more less how much was a brew of this magnitude?

I am trying to put together a build up and a budget, but I dont want to run short or over spend where there is no need.

I thank you in advance for your reply.

ciao
Old 07-18-2010, 09:43 PM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by ZR1 NABE
just a quick questions if you dont mind me asking ...... more less how much was a brew of this magnitude?

I am trying to put together a build up and a budget, but I dont want to run short or over spend where there is no need.

I thank you in advance for your reply.

ciao
I built a similar engine. $10k in round numbers for parts and machine work. The heads are over $2k by themselves.

383 build

You won't see 500rwhp with a 383 LT1/auto (or manual for that matter) that is "streetable" unless you go forced induction or use juice. By streetable I mean drive it every day to work, rain or shine, idle at 800rpm, pass emissions, etc.

Last edited by 96GS#007; 07-18-2010 at 09:46 PM.
Old 07-18-2010, 11:55 PM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by ZR1 NABE
just a quick questions if you dont mind me asking ...... more less how much was a brew of this magnitude?

I am trying to put together a build up and a budget, but I dont want to run short or over spend where there is no need.

I thank you in advance for your reply.

ciao
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
I built a similar engine. $10k in round numbers for parts and machine work. The heads are over $2k by themselves.

383 build

You won't see 500rwhp with a 383 LT1/auto (or manual for that matter) that is "streetable" unless you go forced induction or use juice. By streetable I mean drive it every day to work, rain or shine, idle at 800rpm, pass emissions, etc.

Jim's thread helped me on my LT4 project.

Again, Thanks Jim
Old 01-17-2011, 12:02 PM
  #352  
Bill Mays
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Default Building a c-4 w ls3

This is my first entry. I have a c-4 frame and a 61 body. I am puting in a LS3/4L85-e. the frame was intended for a LT1. How can I find the mounting specs for a LT1 to LS3 conversion?
Old 01-17-2011, 01:21 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Bill Mays
This is my first entry. I have a c-4 frame and a 61 body. I am puting in a LS3/4L85-e. the frame was intended for a LT1. How can I find the mounting specs for a LT1 to LS3 conversion?
Here are a bunch of threads about that topic.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...rspective.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ith-4l60e.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-6-0-swap.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...o-my-85-a.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-ls1-swap.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...game-plan.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...s1-t56-c4.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...2-into-c4.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-zf-trans.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-in-a-c4.html[/QUOTE]

Using an auto should be easier than a T56.
Old 01-22-2011, 12:25 PM
  #354  
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Noland, curious to see a full dyno once you get the gremlins fixed. I'm curious to check out the power curve on the top end. I'm looking to rebuild and am looking to compare some different cam's power curves. More specifically, I'm curious to see where power starts to peak and how it drops off.

Will, get that thread going! I'd definately be reading.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:52 PM
  #355  
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OK, So this is where I am at with this car..............Drove the CRAP out of it (~15K miles) since this adventure. I kept having a problem burning up Plug wires, but other than that runs very strong. The lesson learned with the wires on the LT motor for me is to ALWAYS use the stock wire looms and dont' worry about after market solutions. It appears that stock works best!...............I also understand that there is ALWAYS an exception or exceptions to the rule. I also had issues and still do on this car and the 91 of making the Composite valve covers work on AFR heads, AFR heads are not very Composite Valve cover friendly IMHO and I wish there was a common matting surface for them or an adapter of some type that would make this transision more seamless to the end users, rather than modifying the valve covers and retaining bolt modifications.

Moving forward, I had an issue with my 91 Vette (White One) about three years ago coming back from Corvette's a Carlisle in where I blew a head gasket. After sitting up for two years, Clif (Will's Brother) Built a 383 Super Ram motor with the parts that I had (Will Spec'd out the motor for him) and it's a nice smoke machine. (Just got it back up here from GA about three weeks ago).

AND NOW!............I bought Grand Sport #091 which is a Red Gut Convertible and I've allowed both Will AND Clif to talk me into putting this motor in the GS. SO, The GS is down in GA getting completely disassembled for paint. The stock GS Paint got beat up pretty good in the Hot Florida Sun, but after all new paint, powder coating, top, seals, badges, stripes and "What Not"...........Clif is going to drop this 383 in the car and I'll probably just part out the rest of it on here.

SO, Not to be completely long winded, I could take the LT4 to the track for a run down south, but I'm more focused no the GS getting done by March, April at the latest. And THAT Car, will go to the track for a run down the 1/4 if Will decides that he'll do that for me.

As always, thanks and I'll see if I can get some info up on the Super Ram 383 in the 91. Clif had a local guy who owns a Land and Sea Dyno in GA put the car up right after he finished the motor. I don't have the Dyno sheet but he said that it made 336 HP and 400 TQ at the rear.

R/Noland Smith, Jr.
STSC(SS) USN Ret.
Old 01-24-2011, 10:13 AM
  #356  
Bill Mays
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Using an auto should be easier than a T56.[/QUOTE]
Mojave: Wow it took me a week to read all the treads and I copied the real meat to an email. I am now doing a search for the best prices and will order the products this or next week. I also picked up some tips for AC, wireing, etc.

Also went to the local Vet dealer amd saw a 2011 LS9 with 680 hp, wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. 124k list price!!!!!!!!!!
Old 01-24-2011, 10:25 AM
  #357  
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Using an auto should be easier than a T56.[/QUOTE]
PS... Mounting will not be to dificult. I am going to get a plastic replica Eng/Trans and have a local speed guy do my welding. I will post when I get to the next step.

Thanks for the great input, this is a vast help in learning.

PSS.. My restored 64 Yellow Riviera, Best of Show 2010 PA is in the Hemminings Classic Car, March2010 issue pages 60-65.. Now we build a street machine of the year 2015!!!!

Bill
Old 01-24-2011, 11:27 AM
  #358  
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Originally Posted by Bill Mays
Mojave: Wow it took me a week to read all the treads and I copied the real meat to an email. I am now doing a search for the best prices and will order the products this or next week. I also picked up some tips for AC, wireing, etc.

Also went to the local Vet dealer amd saw a 2011 LS9 with 680 hp, wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. 124k list price!!!!!!!!!!
Glad those helped out. Post a build thread of your project, it sounds really cool!
Old 01-24-2011, 12:40 PM
  #359  
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How do you do a build thread?



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