I am poised, ready to purchase some Hooker 2151 headers for my 94 LT1 6 speed. Down to deciding if the ceramic coating is worth the extra $400. What do you guys think?

 

Probably a good question.

I bought Stainless Works headers a while back and did not get the coating. A lot said I would notice a big increase in cabin temp without it. I can't tell one bit of difference over the stock manifolds in there. IMHO though I think if you have the jack go ahead and get it. I didn't so I skipped it. I suppose it probably cuts down on engine bay heat so sensors and wires would probably last longer.

 

http://www.engineceramics.com/coating_exhaust.htm

Here's Some Good Info.

 

any coating going to last a few years of "abuse" but it does keep the temps down a bit for race prepped motors (stock one wont see the difference).

If it were me, I'd get the coating because it keeps the pipes looking nice. I recently had my 2149's re-coated for just that reason.

It ir were me and I didnt have a $$ issue, I'd go with 12guage or thicker stainless steel headers. no coating needed for SS pipes.

I would not get the 2151 simply because they are not coated and will be rusty looking fairly quickly.

 

Stainless can rust over time. It all depends on the qualty of the stainless and its percentage of nickel etc. I had a set of JBA's when they were new to the market and there build quality wasn't the greatest and they surface rusted to the point I painted them with Eastwoods stainless exhaust paint. Just my 2 cents!

 

I just spoke to my buddy that owns a local speed shop (www.instantkarmaracing.com) who said pretty much what you guys have. In a mostly street car application you won't see a huge difference in performance over non coated but where you will notice it underhood temps and longevity of the good looks. He also said he can get the headers coated inside and out for about $275 to $300 so it's cheaper for me to buy the uncoated headers, get any O2 bungs welded in, and have Dave send the off to get them coated.

Next step is finding some cats. I was hoping for some universal, header mount high flow cats to bolt right to the header but it's looking more like I might need to buy a set of stainless high flows and have a shop make the cats fit up to the headers and a set of pipes to hook up to my Corsa system.

Please don't tell me to skip the cats, I don't like running without them. Every car out there not running cats is one stone on the path to having to go back to annual E-checks.

 

I would love to have a set of good quality stainless headers but my budget for this upgrade is $1,000 for headers, cats, pipes, and labor. Anything left over is money towards a Hot Cam, Edlebrock intake and XT heads this summer after I sell my C5 I'm dropping a motor in.

 

This information spot on.

Temperatures will be lower in the engine bay and cabin.

Flow is improved and improved more if coated inside.

I would recommend finding a local Jet Hot applier and buying un-coated headers.

TJM

 

If you have time, buy the Hookers uncoated and have them done by a company that specializes in coating. The ceramic coating that Hooker uses is ok on the outside, but very thin on the inside and the tubes will eventually rust from the inside. That is why I'm on my second set; the weld area between the primary tubes and the collectors failed.

 

Extra $400????? WOW... Give me a call or send me a PM and I can save you a BUNDLE!!!!

 

 

Buy the painted ones then have the coating done somewhere else. Most ceramic coating places that I've dealt with offer a choice of "Black" or "silver" ceramic coating. Both color choices hold up about the same here in FL climate....they all will rust/start to rust eventually though.

 

Will Jet-Hot coating be (seriously) damaged if headers are installed on a NEW motor? Are there any tricks to prevent peeling/dulling problems until motor is broke in? (Don't really want to use stock/alternative headers until break-in)

 

There is no direct yes or no answer to your questions. To be honest we never recommend a break in or a dyno test/tune with coated headers as you have a lot of margin for error. IF you have no other choice then I recommend doing your homework on the engine set up to make sure that you are as close to perfect as you can get with the tune. Watch the headers close as you begin the break in. IF you even see a hint of red glow shut her down in a hurry! The worse that can happen is you smoke the coating right off the headers, the other possible issue is a flat gray dull look as the metallic in the coating is cooked out, or nothing at all and they still look perfect.

I have done many builds and gone both ways. I have had 50/50 luck with mine but it’s always something I didn’t set right or looked over when doing the build. My issue is always running fat on the start up and I suffer the after burn in the headers, or my timing is a hair off.

 

A while back I was given an estimate by Jet-Hot via their site to recoat a set of Hooker 2151's. The price was more than what the headers cost me new already ceramic coated (not cheap) and there was still shipping to and from. On 2151's the ceramic option (2151-1) was only about $100 more when I bought them from Summit, definately not $400. I could hold my hand directly on the header just shortly after driving the car for any amount of time, and it would just be a little warm. Didn't even need a starter heat shield.

After 8 years, I now have them sitting here completely cleaned up. I blasted them clean in a blasting cabinet, then hot tank, and are now ready to recoat.

Since I already have access to a compressor and several air brushes, and I can have my cousin bake them at work, I'm considering this inexpensive DIY ceramic kit made by Tech Line Coatings that Eastwood carries for under $50:

http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm

So why am I having to redo them you ask. When I first got the car I had no choice but to constantly drive it in the rain since it was my only car at the time. Water remains trapped in the nooks between the primary tubes at the collector, allowing rust to begin in this area after years of this. The rest of the headers where still fine, but I wanted to correct this before the rust ate through the pipes.

 

how much more to jet coat some headers? maybe we can get a few guys interested and u can give us a bit of a deal?

 

We can do either new or used. Just let me know what you have and I will pm you a price OR let me know what you would like to order and I will pm a price. We have a group purchase going on at the moment for the Headers and Sidepipes although I know those won’t work for everyone but feel free to give me some ideas on what you guys are looking for and I’ll get working on another group discount!!! Keep in mind you will always receive a 15% for being a forum member.

 

I went with Random Technologies universal cats. They are 3" ID on the inlet and 3" OD on the outlets. They slip over the header and clamped them with wide stainless exhaust clamps (they provided).

I had a muffler shop bend me some stainless to go from the back of the cats to my Corsa system (LT1 system). They expanded the end that slips inside the cat outlet a little so it was a snug fit. Cost me $150.

I feel the same about the cats as you. Plus, it's fun to roll into the annual safety check and they look under the car and see the cats (as well as at the track). Why bother to pull and replace every year? Today's high-flow cats are like they aren't even there!

 

x10

Worth it.
Dont think it will add a bit of power but sure helps with ease of working on it and saves those wires. Wouldnt go back to uncoated.

Run the motor for a few minutes, shut off let cool. Do that a few times, if youre lucky it will take a set and the coating wont dull. Last time I bought a set my timiing was way retarded and I got the headers red hot lol. They dulled some but big deal most do. Doesnt affect the coatings ability to do their job though.

 

i have hooker 2149's. they were coated from the factory, but starting to get a little ruster near the bottom. all in all they are in good shape but i am picky.