Need Help With Rewiring
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Need Help With Rewiring
I have replaced my alt. with a three wire 140 amp Powermaster, and have used larger wire everywhere.
I have a 2 gauge battery cable going from the alt., to the positive battery post, and a 1/0 gauge from the positive post to the starter lug. From the starter lug, I have a 2 gauge battery cable going to a terminal block on the firewall.
My question is what (if any), protection should I have on the 2 gauge battery cable from the alt., to the battery? A very large fuse-able link? Circuit Breaker?
Aside from that, does anyone see anything I've done that I should correct?
I have a 2 gauge battery cable going from the alt., to the positive battery post, and a 1/0 gauge from the positive post to the starter lug. From the starter lug, I have a 2 gauge battery cable going to a terminal block on the firewall.
My question is what (if any), protection should I have on the 2 gauge battery cable from the alt., to the battery? A very large fuse-able link? Circuit Breaker?
Aside from that, does anyone see anything I've done that I should correct?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
I have replaced my alt. with a three wire 140 amp Powermaster, and have used larger wire everywhere.
I have a 2 gauge battery cable going from the alt., to the positive battery post, and a 1/0 gauge from the positive post to the starter lug. From the starter lug, I have a 2 gauge battery cable going to a terminal block on the firewall.
My question is what (if any), protection should I have on the 2 gauge battery cable from the alt., to the battery? A very large fuse-able link? Circuit Breaker?
Aside from that, does anyone see anything I've done that I should correct?
I have a 2 gauge battery cable going from the alt., to the positive battery post, and a 1/0 gauge from the positive post to the starter lug. From the starter lug, I have a 2 gauge battery cable going to a terminal block on the firewall.
My question is what (if any), protection should I have on the 2 gauge battery cable from the alt., to the battery? A very large fuse-able link? Circuit Breaker?
Aside from that, does anyone see anything I've done that I should correct?
Yes it should have protection either with a fuse link or a more modern "anl" fuse. If using links you can run more than one in parallel.
If using anl, size the fuse at the actual "Fuse Blow Point"
I don't know why you ran straight to the battery. I would have used 0 ga from the bat to starter (no measureable voltage drop) and used the solenoid as a junction just like oem. The adequate charge wire to the terminal block and to solenoid.
In automotive dc wiring, always try and keep your high draw wiring as short as possible.
You may want to redo all the underhood ground wiring, it's very small oem. You can consider your car frame a a big ground buss, so that will save on some ground wire.
You can just use regular "in line" fuse of your choice for the fans, just for easy replacement, no need for links.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Thanks Noonie!
I have no idea what an 'anl' fuse is, but I will find out and put one in. I also don't know what or how to size the actual fuse blow point. I ran the 2 gauge battery cable all the way to the battery, because that is where it was routed originally. It was a pain because it travels thru the frame. It didn't occur to me to run it to the starter.
I suppose I also need to put an 'anl' fuse on my 2 gauge cable from the starter lug, to the terminal block, as it also is unprotected from a short.
I will take your advice and up-size the ground wires under the dash. That also never occurred to me.
I used a 5 post terminal block from an S-10 that already had the fuse-able links in the correct sizes, so I just soldered those in, instead of in line fuses.
Thanks-Again for your help!
I have no idea what an 'anl' fuse is, but I will find out and put one in. I also don't know what or how to size the actual fuse blow point. I ran the 2 gauge battery cable all the way to the battery, because that is where it was routed originally. It was a pain because it travels thru the frame. It didn't occur to me to run it to the starter.
I suppose I also need to put an 'anl' fuse on my 2 gauge cable from the starter lug, to the terminal block, as it also is unprotected from a short.
I will take your advice and up-size the ground wires under the dash. That also never occurred to me.
I used a 5 post terminal block from an S-10 that already had the fuse-able links in the correct sizes, so I just soldered those in, instead of in line fuses.
Thanks-Again for your help!
Last edited by tonyv123; Jun 26, 2011 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Forgot somthing
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Thanks Noonie!
I have no idea what an 'anl' fuse is, but I will find out and put one in. I also don't know what or how to size the actual fuse blow point. I ran the 2 gauge battery cable all the way to the battery, because that is where it was routed originally. It was a pain because it travels thru the frame. It didn't occur to me to run it to the starter.
I suppose I also need to put an 'anl' fuse on my 2 gauge cable from the starter lug, to the terminal block, as it also is unprotected from a short.
I will take your advice and up-size the ground wires under the dash. That also never occurred to me.
I used a 5 post terminal block from an S-10 that already had the fuse-able links in the correct sizes, so I just soldered those in, instead of in line fuses.
Thanks-Again for your help!
I have no idea what an 'anl' fuse is, but I will find out and put one in. I also don't know what or how to size the actual fuse blow point. I ran the 2 gauge battery cable all the way to the battery, because that is where it was routed originally. It was a pain because it travels thru the frame. It didn't occur to me to run it to the starter.
I suppose I also need to put an 'anl' fuse on my 2 gauge cable from the starter lug, to the terminal block, as it also is unprotected from a short.
I will take your advice and up-size the ground wires under the dash. That also never occurred to me.
I used a 5 post terminal block from an S-10 that already had the fuse-able links in the correct sizes, so I just soldered those in, instead of in line fuses.
Thanks-Again for your help!
Specifically:
alt to starter mount
harness to blower motor
harness to headlites
rocker channel to inside A pillar
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Right On!
I was so stoked about getting everything else pretty much right, that I mis-read underhood.
I've got enough day left to start on the [I]underhood[I] grounds. I'm also going to find a source for 0 gauge for the battery to starter as you recommended. Summit only had 1/0 gauge Taylor brand kits. I think the local welding supply store can help.
Summit also carries the anl fuses. Since I have a 140 amp alt., should I get the 150 amp fuse like this one?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSS-ANN150/
I was so stoked about getting everything else pretty much right, that I mis-read underhood.
I've got enough day left to start on the [I]underhood[I] grounds. I'm also going to find a source for 0 gauge for the battery to starter as you recommended. Summit only had 1/0 gauge Taylor brand kits. I think the local welding supply store can help.
Summit also carries the anl fuses. Since I have a 140 amp alt., should I get the 150 amp fuse like this one?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSS-ANN150/
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Look for a wafer fuse- at your local stereo shop... Fusable links are what the guys used 40 years ago...AND will actually limit current flow...
If you have a problem w/ the device (fan /headlights) the relay will usually torch up first.
However- I don't think you need any more protection - if all the wires are protected physically and not moving around.
Running the large gu wire to the battery is the best way to do it- at idle -usually when the fans kick on- the battery will keep the voltage up and minimize surges in your electrical system plus the battery filters the AC left over from the Alt - and your MSD will like that!!!
If you look at the upper end euro cars (where in the alt is capable of 140+ amps- and some are water cooled!!!) - they have been wiring like this since the mid eighties.
Noonie-is totally correct on the grounding- remember these cars were never designed to handle these large amounts of current.
Richard
At 150 amps- if you pull more than that- a blown fuse will be the least of your problems
If you have a problem w/ the device (fan /headlights) the relay will usually torch up first.
However- I don't think you need any more protection - if all the wires are protected physically and not moving around.
Running the large gu wire to the battery is the best way to do it- at idle -usually when the fans kick on- the battery will keep the voltage up and minimize surges in your electrical system plus the battery filters the AC left over from the Alt - and your MSD will like that!!!
If you look at the upper end euro cars (where in the alt is capable of 140+ amps- and some are water cooled!!!) - they have been wiring like this since the mid eighties.
Noonie-is totally correct on the grounding- remember these cars were never designed to handle these large amounts of current.
Richard
At 150 amps- if you pull more than that- a blown fuse will be the least of your problems
Last edited by Richard454; Jun 26, 2011 at 07:08 PM. Reason: read last comment
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Here is welding cable and their ends (better than automotive), with the ends crimped and soldered. Best bang for the buck. You can smear with silicone when done and add heatshrink too.
You can get the anl fuses and mounts at NAPA or any boat supply.
It's best to fuse all high amp power wires. Battery cables are about the only ones that never are.
Here is a crude wire sizing calculator. Check the difference between 0 and 1 ga with the cable at 8foot.
http://www.supercircuits.com/resourc...ls/voltageDrop
Here is a chart for sizing anl fuses.
You can get the anl fuses and mounts at NAPA or any boat supply.
It's best to fuse all high amp power wires. Battery cables are about the only ones that never are.
Here is a crude wire sizing calculator. Check the difference between 0 and 1 ga with the cable at 8foot.
http://www.supercircuits.com/resourc...ls/voltageDrop
Here is a chart for sizing anl fuses.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 59
From: Emerald Isle NC
I'm with Noonie, give those ground wires big attention. Good ground is essential in DC. Also, make sure to use wire with a high strand count, not some off the shelf crap. More strands =more surface area=less resistance=less voltage drop, which is severe in DC. The welding cable will address all of this, and you can drop the wire gauge a little...
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