Fuel Line Repair

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Mar 29, 2014 | 08:07 PM

68vxm

Thread Starter

Intermediate

Joined: Jul 2010

Posts: 37

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From: Crowley Texas

Fuel Line Repair

My ’68 small block has damage to the hard fuel line just prior to the fuel pump. Looks like the line was bent then reshaped, leaving a kink. It’s been this way since I bought the car, and it’s not been a problem. However, I can’t shake the thought of a weak spot in the line that may leak. Also, I have a high RPM detonation problem I’ve been chasing, and lacking an ignition issue, I’m wondering if this damage is causing a lean condition at high RPM.

So I’m considering repair options. I understand this line is pretty much impossible to replace back to the tank without lifting the body. I’m hoping to avoid that approach. My car is a driver, and I would not be concerned if a repair were not stock. I’m going for safety and proper performance.

I could cut the line behind the damage and use a slightly longer rubber line to the pump, however I’m not convinced that I will be able to successfully maneuver a flaring tool to create the correct flare with the line on the car. I think I’m just going to give it a try, as any repair will require a flare. Unless you gents have another idea.

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Mar 29, 2014 | 08:38 PM

MakoJoe

Burning Brakes

Joined: Apr 2013

Posts: 926

Likes: 2

From: Castle Rock CO

Many of the sponsors of this site will sell you a new fuel line to replace the beat up one you have

Normally links work but take this and copy and paste it into your browser and it will show you a prefabricated fuel line. Unfornitally it requires the body off the frame to install. But you could buy the line and cut it then use a compression fitting to install it as far back as you can without removing the body from the frame. The other option is buying a plumbing line bender tool and flaring tool from a local auto supply store in your area then mold the line yourself. I generally buy this kind of stuff from Harbor Freight tools since they inexpensive and you only really need them once or twice.

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={196c1a4b-9d99-4e6b-abc5-e0991b428a80}&gid={f274c392-bdfa-4b61-a108-7e38ad391ae8}&GroupName=Fuel+Lines+-+Tank+to+Pump&pname=68+Gas+Tank+to+Fuel+ Pump+Frame+Line&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&

Last edited by MakoJoe; Mar 29, 2014 at 08:56 PM.

Mar 29, 2014 | 09:49 PM

Roco71

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 3,264

Likes: 3

From: Vero Beach FL

You are correct about replacing the entire line. The problem with a longer rubber line is that the one going to the fuel pump is shaped (molded) into a "S" shape to keep it from kinking. Some years ago I used compression fittings to repair a brake line on another old car and when I sold the car ten years later it was still working. Others here may have a better (another) solution.

Mar 30, 2014 | 12:59 AM

7T1vette

Team Owner

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 37,637

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From: Crossville TN

Just cut it off a bit before the damage and run a longer flex hose to the pump. You should be able to find hose with a braided jacket that won't kink. Or use the same "S" hose and put a small lenth of hard line and a small jumper hose in between it and the hard line. Since the fuel isn't pressurized at that point, what you do to the line is no big deal.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 30, 2014 at 01:05 AM.

Mar 30, 2014 | 10:35 AM

c69vete

Drifting

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 1,695

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From: Kissimmee fl

Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified

2017 C3 of Year Finalist

Cruise-In VIII Veteran

St. Jude Donor '07

Here are a couple of tricks I use and have posted before. If you need to cut the line back, that would mean cutting the swell that was there to prevent the hose from slipping off. To replace the "swell" install a compression fitting on the end of the line, tighten as you would to squeeze the ferrul onto the tube. Then remove the body of the fitting, slide the nut back a bit, then cut the nut off, leaving the ferrul on the line to hold the new hose.
Anothe trick I like to use is to shape a piece of steel line to whatever shape needed, deburr the outside, grease, it outside and slide the rubber hose over the tube. The tube holds the shape, leave about 1 !/2 to 2 in. of hose longer than the tubing for connecting to the other piping.
Granted, you could just form the tubing and connect with hose from both ends, but that gives two more places with a chance to leak.

Last edited by c69vete; Mar 30, 2014 at 10:53 PM.