Our 2006 arrived the other day with two key fobs. Because of the wear and tear it was obvious which one was original.

I tried the replacement fob today, nothing. Replaced the battery with a new on, still nothing.

When I place it in the glovebox slot, "Fob Not Detected".

Found this thread...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html

Car is off, drivers window down, truck open, m6 in reverse. When I do the 5 turns in the trunklock, nothing.

I tried passenger window up/down, no difference. It's a vert, does the top need to be up??

(I don't know if it matters, but both fobs have are # 1)

Thanks!

 

Doesn't matter, only thing that matters is what fob number the fob is programmed to the car as. Going to be your problem knowing which one is which for the car once both have been programmed for the car.

Many who had a problem with the programming instructions were not getting a full turn of the key in the lock all 5 times.

 

Trust me when I say, I'm not shy about cranking on that key!! Still nothing.

 

Got some experts here on the subject. They should be along after awhile.

 

27 pages read... My eyes are burning!!

It does look like getting the car into programming mode is the most frequent problem though. I don't feel so alone!

 

Your car may have already had too many fobs programmed to it so it won’t accept any more fobs. You may need to erase all the programmed fobs and start over with the 2 that you now have.

 

This was my first thought as I was reading the OP. If so, they only way to have two fobs programmed to the car is to do the long programming process.

 

So that leads to my next question. Would having too many fobs programmed stop the DIC from activating??

 

No. It should still go to program mode in case you wanted to erase them all and start from scratch. I've read about your problem a lot. Usually try and try again solves it. I can imagine how frustrating it is.

 

There are some great suggestions on this site, but I was having no success. I would follow the steps; car off, window down, hatch open, glovebox open, but could not get the 5th step to occur, (entering programming on the DIC) after 5 turns of the key.

After several tries I was ready to stand on one foot with a finger in my ear while blowing kisses at my car (I always close my garage door so the neighbors don't talk) when I decided to try the suggestion to spray a little WD40 into the lock. THAT WORKED. Some suggested the car had to be in reverse(M6) which I did this time.

Thanks to all.
John

 

Update - I tried the WD40, hopped on one foot, had two people help just in case I took a stupid pill and still no luck activating the DIC with the key turns in the trunk...

I found out at our Supercar Saturday event that a fellow owner has a Tech 2 and is willing to help out.

That will solve the fob issue, but I still want to see what is causing the 5 turns of the key in 5 seconds to not activate the DIC.

 

The only thing I can think of is the electronic connection must be disconnected from the lock cylinder in the back somewhere.

 

Maybe I'll pop off some of the covers and take a look!

 

Or problem with the interior relay switch in the cylinder Mech.

Hence the key cylinder part to unlock the latch is a cable part to latch, but there is a relay latch in the cylinder mech to send the signal back to the BCM as well (for key programming).

https://www.smcautoparts.com/2586547...472-axx001.htm

So to check the relay, disconnect the electric connector, put a multi meter set to ohms on the connector prongs, and cycle the key all the way to see if you get a ohm reading on the wires/relay. If you do, the problem is not at the cyclinder connector/wires, but up line in the wiring instead.

Also to point out, if the car is an export (BCM set to anything but USA), you can not use the rear key latch to get the car into to fob relearn mode. You have to use a tech II to get the car into relearn mode using SPS security programming, and will have a 10 min wait timer as well.
Note in a usa car, Tech II can be used without needing to use SPS, and there is no wait timer. Better yet, you don't have to play the long procedure game having to program fobs in one at a time in the correct order, and you can learn a fob into any RCDLR programming position direct replacement instead. Hence if you are programming a replacement fob back into RCDLR position one, you program it into position one directly, and the fob is postion 2,3,4 stay programmed into their postions without having to be relearned. Same goes for it the new fob needs to be programmed into say slot 2, and it a direct program without having to reprogram the rest of the fobs back in.

If the car goes into fob relearn mode, but does not see the fob in the glove box slot to program it in, bank that the glove box slot antenna fell out of its keeper and you will need to clip it back in.

Antenna is #12 and snaps into into the side slot of #13

 

^^Right. But first I'd get the simple part out of the way and make sure this connector has something plugged into it.

 

Agreed, and if the female connector is connected to the male connector, disconnect it, put a ohm meter on the pin ends, and make sure that you get a ohm reading when you turn the key all the way.

If you do, then clean both male and remale connector, reconnect the connector and see if you can get the car in to fob mode using the key.

If you don't get an ohm reading with the key turned all the way over, then the assembly can be pulled apart to fix the contactor points.

The alternative is to buy a new cylinder assembly, take it a lock smith to have the cylinder re-pinned to match your Vin number key, and then install the new one back in place.

 

Wish you guys lived closer, I can wrench, but outside of screwing a bulb in, I'm not the electrical whiz...

 

Trust me, your not alone on the feeling.

Hence what take me days of topic replays and even phone calls, I could have solve in an hour with someone just bringing their vet over to the house for me to correct in person isntead.

So although the forum is very good help to point you in the correct direction, it does not hurt to have a few buddies local that know the vet well, to give you a helping hand in person when needed instead.

The vet looks complex to begin with, but after you have stripped the car to a pile a parts and put it back together a few times, it's a walk in the park from that point forward.

 

same problem for me with no dic message after 5 turns + wd 40+ beer etc. 2nd fob i got with car will lock,unlock, and start up, open doors, trunk, lock all etc. but DIC says "no options available" with the options button pressed. Since everything I need it to do works, any problem just leaving things alone?? I am getting that the trunk unlock button should work ( did intermittently for a while and not at all now)if the 5 turns key thing is to work (electricity and all...), but since fob 1 (which actually is programmed as #2) is ok, I think just go with that and leave the 2nd fob as the spare like all my previous cars for emergency use. I'm the only driver so driver 1 or 2 mox nix, same features programmed into both.

R

(the C3's and C4's, even the 5 I had were all easier- but then again...KEYS.. no pushbuttons. and I was a lot younger too)