80>60 all day long.

I’d do it.

 

I would go for the 80 gallon unit if you think you are going to use the excess capacity. You will need it if you run a DA sander or use a glass beading system. I would also bolt the compressor to a platform and secure it to the floor in a dedicated place. I use black pipe with water traps and drops in my home garage. I would hate to think what would happen if the compressor tipped over or walked around your shop while running. Don't use PVC pipe under any circumstances. I have extra 50' sections of hose I add for an air source for such things as nail guns etc. for use at distances far from the compressor. Check with the Garage Journal website for additional information. Jerry

 

What will the compressor be used for?
If you are talking about pumping up tires or using an impact wrench or blowing debris off parts, then a small compressor should suffice. If you are planning to run a sand blaster or paint gun all day, then get the larger one. I have a small contractor compressor (like one used for nail guns) that I use all the time for probably 90% of the jobs in my shop. It only has a small tank, but it pumps up to 120 PSI in less than 30 seconds. My big compressor is an 80 gallon IR that I use for sand blasting and painting.
Charles

 

 

I believe your extension cord plan will work based on that is the exact set up I use. I have a 5hp, 220V compressor on a dedicated circuit. I bolted the compressor on its original shipping base after placing 4 inch casters. Movement has not been an issue. I have used it in my restoration of my '64 including painting. The only thing I noticed is that the 60 gal has a higher CFM rating than the 80 gal. Depending on what your use is for the compressor, it may not be significant. Space permitting, I would get the 80 gal if the CFM is not an issue.

 

I had a thread on here not long ago asking about anchoring a compressor, and the overwhelming vote was it will not move a bit.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ete-floor.html

I just bought the 60-gallon version this morning and will leave it on the pallet, and will cut up an old tire and make some rubber pads to go between the pallet and the concrete floor.

I plan to make some marks on the floor, and if it shows any signs of walking around, I will anchor it.

 

 

I was going to check out the one we've been using for the last 7 months on my car. It's at a friends shop. I believe it's a 3hp 60. It's and Ingersol. It will keep up with one person and air tools fine. Blasting you have to wait on it. With multiple people you'll wait a little. I have abused it non stop. We had to replace the motor on it a few weeks back. Although it's an Ingersol the motor was made in Mexico and the compressor somewhere else I forget now. Your breaker shouldn't be run at 80% capacity all of the time. The 5hp draws 28 amps. Use a 40 amp breaker.

 

If you have a 5 horse motor or larger I suggest you incorporate a magnetic starter into your wiring scheme. DIY price for a 5 horse can be done for about $85. I have IR 60 gal with a NEW Baldor 5 horse motor. My compressor is now wired with a WEG ESWS-25V24E-RM34 mag starter. If I had initially incorporated a mag stater it may have saved me from having to buy a $475 replacement motor. Your house circuit breakers are to protect the house wiring not your motor.

couple of links for info.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...gnetic-starter

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...ad.php?t=87388

 

Elwood13,

I have a twin stage 80 gal compressor like the IR. It draws 22 amps running. The 30 amp breaker should be fine for the big twin stage 220v compressor. Keep in mind that the breaker should be sized to protect the equipment and wiring. A 25 amp would probably be better to protect the motor, but your compressor motor will come with a thermal overload to protect it and your wire is good for the 30 amp. Never put in a breaker larger than the capacity of the wire, especially for the house wiring in the wall.

Your wire is 3 conductor #10 awg SO cord. It should be good for 30 amps depending on the length. See http://www.usawire-cable.com/pdfs/nec%20ampacities.pdf for NEC capacities. The 3 conductor cord should have 4 wires, red, white, and black with a smaller green wire for the equipment ground. You need to check the wiring diagram for the compressor to see if you need the equipment ground, I recommend it as a safety concern.

The cord caps, ends on the cord are only 20 amp and should not be used with a 22 amp draw. You have to look at the wiring diagram to see what you need. I ran 10/3 with ground to my compressor, but I cannot remember if the safety ground was needed.

I have had both a 60 gal single stage and the 80 gal twin stage. I highly recommend the twin stage for air tools and painting if you are using a 1/2" impact and various air sanders. You don't have to wait for it to catch up. It works well with sand blasting the the higher pressure.

Air hose is cheap and it won't fry something or someone if it is cut. Your 220v extention cords will be a tripping hazard and possible electrical hazard. I would put the air compressor in a more or less permanent position and buy 50' or more of 3/8" hose. The extension cord length may be limited due to increased current (amp draw) of the wire. It is a PIA moving a vertical tank compressor around safely.

Just my $.02.

 

One thing I would recommend is after an initial breakin period, you should switch the oil in the compressor to a synthetic oil. AmsOil makes a synthetic specifically for compressors.


I have a small 3hp, 20 gallon, Campbell Hausfeld compressor that I have used around my garage for about 30 years. Shortly after getting it, I was using it to drive a pneumatic buffer. After about 30 minutes of almost continuous use I could actually smell it in the shop. It had gotten very warm. I realized then, I could not use it for more than 30 minutes without a cooling down period.

Later I mentioned this to my AmsOil distributor when picking up some oil for my diesel pickup (15 qts!), and he mentioned that they actually made a synthetic oil specifically for compressors. I decided to give it a try. A while later I was using the compressor to drive the high cfm buffer again and after about 45 minutes realized that I couldn't smell the compressor so decided to go check on it. When I got within a few feet I could tell it was warm, but it was running just fine and was not overheating as before. I don't believe it will make your compressor something it's not, but I am convinced it will make it live longer... regardless of how you typically use your compressor.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

As R66 says the wire is ok but your plugs are too small. And you need to know what size wire is in the wall. As he told you the breaker is only to protect the wiring. If you have too small of wire and too big a breaker your wire just becomes a fuseable link, not good. If you look at your dryer plug it more than likely is a 3 prong plug. For years everything 220 has had 3 prongs. I just wired in a heater at my buddies shop over the winter and it had a 4 prong connector. I called the electrician that wired his shop to see why. I used the 2 hot legs and the neutral and went on. If you have 8 wire in the wall I would use a 40 amp breaker. All of this is JMO.