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My old fuel pump is leaking like a sieve, so I'm doing some research before getting a replacement and I see on a video (not exact to my year) there's a bolt in the engine a small way up from the fuel pump. Is this present on all C3's or certain years? I have a '75 L48 I do not see the bolt present. I've included a picture from the video of the bolt I'm referencing. If it is supposed to be present, the video mentions it's a 9/16, can anyone point me in the direction of a part number, part name, or the correct bolt size?
I was lucky as my pump bolt fit to hold rod, there is a hole to hold the pushrod to change pump..also put at tdc when you start..
not for sure if yours is the same but it SHOULD have a shorter bolt in that hole...but caution not long enough to hit pump rod..
also fyi do not buy a carter pump...mine ticked..and replacement at first is great (same pump) but i think i hear it coming back, not for sure yet..
forever i looked..corvette central tells me picture accurate..i just ordered.. https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...d%26q%3d353155
you can also hold it up with the dipstick while slipping fuel pump in below the dipstick. in ALL cases, turn the engine over until the fuel pump drive rod is up in the block. if sticking down, you will never get the pump in.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
From a post I have done earlier:
Here is what you need to do:
Find the #1 plug wire on your distributor cap and make note of the position of the #1 tower.
Pop the distributor cap off and then "bump" the engine over (using the starter) until the rotor points to the #1 tower position.
Put the cap back on
Remove the old fuel pump
Remove the plug bolt from the front of the engine block for the fuel pump pushrod hole location. All small block Chevys have this bolt:
Using your fingers, needle nosed pliers, or a screwdriver, push the fuel pump pushrod upwards until it hits the camshaft eccentric. It should move upwards about an inch from its current "dropped-down" position. Hold it there.
Install a fully-threaded 2" long bolt into the hole that you pulled the plug bolt out of. Tighten the bolt until you feel it hitting and jamming the pushrod.
Install your new fuel pump and snug it down.
Remove the 2" long jam bolt and re-install the stock plug bolt.
Thank you everyone for your replies, immense amount of help and knowledge. I will take everyone's advice on getting to TDC so the rod is retracted and using the long bolt from the fuel pump to lodge the rod.
The main issue I have at this point is the shorter bolt that SHOULD be in that hole ( @lars referred to as a plug bolt) during normal operation is not there. Any ideas on sizing/part name or number I could find that bolt by to get a replacement? The AIM copy I have does not call out this bolt.
The AIM copy I have does not call out this bolt.[/QUOTE]
The reason you do not see anything in the AIM is. The AIM is for each assembly station to aid the worker. If the item is a complete assembly when it arrives at St. Louis the only information need for the worker is how to install the item or if any other parts need install. As for the engine it arrived from Flint or Tonawanda assembled other then external items.
I've never had a problem with a little grease holding the rod in place and I've never had a problem getting the pump on with the rod on the high side of the cam lobe. You just have to push a little harder that's all. Maybe since I haven't done one in a while and am older I may not have the strength to compress the pump lever and install the bolts at the same time. But all the above techniques are good.
I would add a few things. Clamp off the rubber hose at the gas tank. I use a set of needle nose vice grips with a short length of hose on each needle to protect the fuel line. Once the engine is on the number one at the distributer, I remove the bolt at the front of the engine and install the longer bolt. I next remove the pump and with one hand, hold the fuel pump rod and loosen the long bolt. Push the rod up a bit further. Hand tighten the long bolt again. When removing and installing the pump, it is easier to remove the passenger wheel and using a long extension on a socket set, go through the wheel well. If any of the rubber lines have any age on them, now would be the time to change them. Have a bucket or pan at hand to capture any gas. I also have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. Lastly, once the pump is installed, remove the long bolt from the boss and install the short bolt with some gasket seal. Remove the clamp at the tank. check for leaks. Start the car and check for leaks again. Good luck and be careful. Jerry
Fuel Pump Replacement
