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@jontx the rca cables from preouts to interface worked a treat. There’s a little bit of a ringing when in acc mode that’s not detectable with the engine running, but I can probably chock that up to bring one of 2 things - the wires are twisted together to test it, and I’m actually going from rca on the preouts, to female RCA from the LOC kit, to the interface. The original speaker wire rca cables I ordered never shipped. For now I’m hooking up the interface to the LOC kit so I can use the car with it hooked up until I order some different rca to speaker cables
@jontx nice! Total white noise elimination or just mostly gone? I ordered a loc kit in case the rca doesn’t work tomorrow. Also, unrelated but did you do cameras with your HU or just the sound system? Trying to figure out how I’m going to power my rear camera
You can power a camera a number of different ways. You can connect the camera power + and ground - to the switched power + and ground - between the interface and the head unit. This powers the camera whenever the cars running which is handy if you want to switch to view the camera when you're driving down the road. If you don't care about that then you can just tie the cameras power + wire to the reverse signal (Purple/White) wire between the head unit and interface this wire sees 12v+ but only when the car is put in reverse, then ground the ground wire like I mentioned before. Doing it this way, you don't have to tap into the tail lights for the reverse signal like some people do, and besides that you're already in the dash hooking everything else up. Let me know if you have any questions.
That's interesting that the Kenwoods are causing this issue, that's the first I've heard of such a thing, my Pioneer has no issues what so ever. I'm glad however you're finding away to work around the issue. Something else you guys might be interested in, is doing the brake bypass, so you can make certain changes to your head unit without having to apply the parking brake to do so. Very simple to do, here's a short video explaining how to do it.
@madsonp iI don’t know if the issue is specific to the kenwoods since op was using a pioneer and getting the issue. A lot of the forum posts I’ve read seem to be issues with the kenwoods and pioneer units causing white noise, and I wonder if that’s because they tend to have higher voltage speaker outputs for use in non-amp systems? It could be different with each car though, maybe some have a ground issue while others aren’t doing the wiring correctly or have a bad interface. I finally got everything together in the car last night, and the sound quality is still good but definitely muted with the engine running. I’ll live with it until my new cables come in so I can go from the preouts and be done. Getting everything tucked away with that little loc module was an absolute pita
@madsonp for the cameras I ended up powering the front straight off the battery and the rear off the reverse wires. They poke out from the plates a little more than I was wanting, but they’re alright for $30-$40 cameras and I didn’t have to tape them up or drill holes in the car for them. When they fail I’ll probably switch over to a plate frame camera instead of a camera over plate one. I have yet to take the car out so I don’t know if this model blocks out features unless the parking brake is on, I should know after this weekend. If it does then that bypass is another thing I’ll do when I pull the headunit to change speaker wiring again
@madsonp iI don’t know if the issue is specific to the kenwoods since op was using a pioneer and getting the issue. A lot of the forum posts I’ve read seem to be issues with the kenwoods and pioneer units causing white noise, and I wonder if that’s because they tend to have higher voltage speaker outputs for use in non-amp systems? It could be different with each car though, maybe some have a ground issue while others aren’t doing the wiring correctly or have a bad interface. I finally got everything together in the car last night, and the sound quality is still good but definitely muted with the engine running. I’ll live with it until my new cables come in so I can go from the preouts and be done. Getting everything tucked away with that little loc module was an absolute pita
Could very well be. You'd think PAC would of addressed this with their interfaces so there wouldn't be any issues with it. Maybe they will with future updates, speaking of which did you make sure the latest firmware was installed on the PAC ? Perhaps they already addressed it with their latest firmware.
Could very well be. You'd think PAC would of addressed this with their interfaces so there wouldn't be any issues with it. Maybe they will with future updates, speaking of which did you make sure the latest firmware was installed on the PAC ? Perhaps they already addressed it with their latest firmware.
Never mind, I just looked at PAC's website, and they currently show no firmware updates for the RP5-GM11 with the black body.
Could very well be. You'd think PAC would of addressed this with their interfaces so there wouldn't be any issues with it. Maybe they will with future updates, speaking of which did you make sure the latest firmware was installed on the PAC ? Perhaps they already addressed it with their latest firmware.
Originally Posted by madsonp
Never mind, I just looked at PAC's website, and they currently show no firmware updates for the RP5-GM11 with the black body.
First thing I checked. No updates since it was released September 2021 per the PAC website. So it is what it is I guess?
Does the PAC you use have firmware updates? Cannot recall the one but I remember coming across a thread while researching where you got a more configurable PAC unit for a steal.
@madsonp iI don’t know if the issue is specific to the kenwoods since op was using a pioneer and getting the issue. A lot of the forum posts I’ve read seem to be issues with the kenwoods and pioneer units causing white noise, and I wonder if that’s because they tend to have higher voltage speaker outputs for use in non-amp systems? It could be different with each car though, maybe some have a ground issue while others aren’t doing the wiring correctly or have a bad interface. I finally got everything together in the car last night, and the sound quality is still good but definitely muted with the engine running. I’ll live with it until my new cables come in so I can go from the preouts and be done. Getting everything tucked away with that little loc module was an absolute pita
I've messed around with mine the last few days before putting the dash back together.
I changed to the 'Non-amplified' port on the PAC.
I couldn't hear the radio very well in the 'Amplified' port while driving. It's not as muffled now nor distorts as bad when turning up the volume to my ears. (Distortion kills speakers.)
Unplugged the center dash speaker because it was overly harsh and overpowered everything else no matter what I did.
Cycled through the Kenwood 'Speaker/X-over' settings and have settled on the following so far. Still messing around with the Gain/TW Gain and HPF settings within.
Front speakers: Size '3.5"' and 'Middle' tweeter.
Rear speakers: Size '5"'
Working through equalizer settings, listening position, and time alignment.
And yeah, trying to get everything stuffed in the dash was fun.
First thing I checked. No updates since it was released September 2021 per the PAC website. So it is what it is I guess?
Does the PAC you use have firmware updates? Cannot recall the one but I remember coming across a thread while researching where you got a more configurable PAC unit for a steal.
I originally stared out with the PAC RP5-GM11 (old blue version) Then I came across a brand new PAC GM1A-RST which they just came out with at the time for a real good price (around $10), so I thought I'd give it a try, yes there were updates to be done which I did. It's worked flawlessly ever since I installed it. I still have the old RP5-GM11 laying around as a backup just in case.
I've messed around with mine the last few days before putting the dash back together.
I changed to the 'Non-amplified' port on the PAC.
I couldn't hear the radio very well in the 'Amplified' port while driving. It's not as muffled now nor distorts as bad when turning up the volume to my ears. (Distortion kills speakers.)
Unplugged the center dash speaker because it was overly harsh and overpowered everything else no matter what I did.
Cycled through the Kenwood 'Speaker/X-over' settings and have settled on the following so far. Still messing around with the Gain/TW Gain and HPF settings within.
Front speakers: Size '3.5"' and 'Middle' tweeter.
Rear speakers: Size '5"'
Working through equalizer settings, listening position, and time alignment.
And yeah, trying to get everything stuffed in the dash was fun.
Well theoretically the Amplified port is supposed to be used, as all stock Corvette systems have an amplifier.
Well theoretically the Amplified port is supposed to be used, as all stock Corvette systems have an amplifier.
This I understand. Just relaying what worked with the Kenwood in my specific situation.
I couldn't find technical information from PAC what the interface is doing between the two.
I'm assuming it's dropping voltage down even more through the 'Amplified' port and then the vehicle's amplifier brings it back up to what's required for the speakers?
This I understand. Just relaying what worked with the Kenwood in my specific situation.
I couldn't find technical information from PAC what the interface is doing between the two.
I'm assuming it's dropping voltage down even more through the 'Amplified' port and then the vehicle's amplifier brings it back up to what's required for the speakers?
Yes. I believe that's correct, but like you, I don't know for sure.
This would be something good to send to PAC about the issues people are having with their interfaces.
I just sent a note to PAC with a link to this thread to explain the issues you're having, for them to review. I'll let you know if they respond, and what their reply is. Hopefully it can be addressed with something as simple as a firmware update.
I just sent a note to PAC with a link to this thread to explain the issues you're having, for them to review. I'll let you know if they respond, and what their reply is. Hopefully it can be addressed with something as simple as a firmware update.
I sent PAC a note, this is what I sent:
Hi, I belong to a forum concerning C6 Corvettes and the use of your RP5-GM11 and the issues some are having with your interface with certain head units. Here's a link to a thread from this forum explaining the issue some people are seeing. Just thought I'd let you know in case this is something you can fix with a product change or firmware update. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...c-noise-2.html
And for what it's worth, this was their reply:
Hello,
The RP5-GM11 is an interface that retains OnStar vocal prompts and also Bluetooth via OnStar. Due to that reason, we have to inject those audio signals into the audio chain. We do this via speaker level. All radios are designed differently with different power ratings and different amplifier technology. Some radios are really powerful (Sony has a 100wpc radio) and some radios use MOSFET chips (Pioneer). These technologies put a lot of strain on that circuitry and can sometimes pose problems with OE amplifiers. In situations where this problem arises, they will be dealt with on a case-by-case basis. If OnStar is not desired the radio can bypass the interface and run into the OE amp low level, like our RP4-GM11 is designed. If OnStar is desired the radio can still bypass the interface via low level, but a 4-8 ohm speaker will be required on the left front output channel coming out of the interface. I hope this clears things up. If you have any further questions please let us know.
I crudely hooked up the front outputs from the radio to the LOC at lunch because I'm impatient.
And by crudely I mean undoing my original harness, stripping speaker wire back, wrapping the ends around one another, and using some electrical tape to keep them from shorting.
The front speakers had NO white noise and I could actually turn the head unit up to 30.
Tonight I will redo my harness and solder all of the speaker connections to run through the LOC.
Hopefully this solves it even though it's adding another potential point of failure to the mix (in addition to the PAC).
Hi Jon. Do you have the listing for the LOC product you bought? I’m having the white noise issue with my sony XAV AX150 going through a PAC GM1ARST in my 2008 base non bose. I want to try this LOC trick but unsure exactly which to buy. Thanks in advance!
Hi Jon. Do you have the listing for the LOC product you bought? I’m having the white noise issue with my sony XAV AX150 going through a PAC GM1ARST in my 2008 base non bose. I want to try this LOC trick but unsure exactly which to buy. Thanks in advance!
@MFDubs420 I think this is the one you’re looking for, it’s the one I tried first before ultimately just hooking up to the preouts on my kenwood
You can also get RCA to speaker wire cables so you can plug your PAC directly into your RCA outputs. This is what solved it for me - achieved basically the same thing as the LOC. If the voltage on you’re preouts isn’t high enough though I’m not sure how that’ll effect sounds quality