Hard downshift killed it..
#1
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Hard downshift killed it..
I was shifting like Ricky Bobby today in my 2005 M6 and I think I got a little carried away. Dropped from 3rd to 2nd at around 50mph (I rev matched) to go for a nice drag pull, and as soon as it went into gear and the rpms spiked, the car shut off. DIC said something like “check electrical system” as it was shutting off. It will now turn over, but won’t start. I got a P0340 code, cam position sensor. Did I jump my timing chain?
#4
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Update: pulled the valve covers and the rockers aren’t moving while I crank the engine. Timing chain must be broken. This is gonna hurt
#6
Melting Slicks
Well start with a new C5 timing chain and gears. Do you remember if you had oil pressure?
#8
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#9
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#10
pretty good chance if you broke your timing chain that you have several if not all your valves bent from contact with the pistons. I've had a similar experience. Kinda sucks.
Good luck, Stafford
Good luck, Stafford
#12
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so -- any suggestions on some bulletproofing / go fast mods while I have this thing torn apart? I don't want to spend a ton of money but might as well throw some new parts in while it's torn down. Definitely putting a new cam in
#13
Drifting
First, I'd dump that under-drive pulley. Since you are in there to replace the timing chain, you could invest in a cam kit. Other than that, you aren't doing much more unless you add a power adder or pull the motor for a (re)build.
#14
Safety Car
Match your cam grind to the LS3 heads. With a a smaller cam (no fly cutting) you can easily end up around 460 RWHP for not a lot of extra coin by using the LS3 heads & intake. You can fly cut if you want a more aggressive cam and/or bump the compression to target 480+ RWHP.
#15
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Lots of suggestions. How much $$ and time you got
First, I'd dump that under-drive pulley. Since you are in there to replace the timing chain, you could invest in a cam kit. Other than that, you aren't doing much more unless you add a power adder or pull the motor for a (re)build.
First, I'd dump that under-drive pulley. Since you are in there to replace the timing chain, you could invest in a cam kit. Other than that, you aren't doing much more unless you add a power adder or pull the motor for a (re)build.
#16
Le Mans Master
Why would an underdrive pulley cause any additional strain on timing gear components? It just drives accessory components less.
My car came with a 10% under so this of course has me curious.
Thanks!
My car came with a 10% under so this of course has me curious.
Thanks!
#17
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#18
The smaller the damper the less damping effect it has on the engine components hence the extra stress. Hence why ATI really doesn't like making stuff more than 10% under. However even their UD version is better than the one one so if you have an ATI I wouldn't switch at all. Now if you have like a 25% PowerBond or something that's different
#19
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Update: pulled the heads and I've got impacted pistons. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I don't know a lot about engine building. With the help of a more knowledgeable friend, we're going to replace the heads, cams, timing chain, timing gear, valves, and pushrods. What exactly needs done to replace the pistons? Do I need to pull the entire block and send it to a machine shop? And if so, what would the machine shop be doing and how much should I expect it to cost?
#20
Drifting
I'd suggest an LS3 crate motor (480hp or 520hp variant,) or at least a used junkyard LS3 or maybe a L92 truck motor, and then you can pull your current motor, and either salvage what you can, or rebuild it and sell it to recoup the investment into your existing LS2.
Who knows, maybe you can hot rod a junkard truck motor for low money, and have some fun with it.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...s3-more-power/
Who knows, maybe you can hot rod a junkard truck motor for low money, and have some fun with it.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...s3-more-power/