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Hard downshift killed it..

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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 09:36 PM
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Default Hard downshift killed it..

I was shifting like Ricky Bobby today in my 2005 M6 and I think I got a little carried away. Dropped from 3rd to 2nd at around 50mph (I rev matched) to go for a nice drag pull, and as soon as it went into gear and the rpms spiked, the car shut off. DIC said something like “check electrical system” as it was shutting off. It will now turn over, but won’t start. I got a P0340 code, cam position sensor. Did I jump my timing chain?
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Old Oct 12, 2018 | 03:00 PM
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What did your rpm jump to? Seems unlikely unless you let the engine rpm drop super low before shifting somehow.
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 07:23 AM
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That should have been fine since 50mph in second is around 4000 rpm. Check your fuses and crank and cam position sensors and their connectors.
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 04:36 PM
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Update: pulled the valve covers and the rockers aren’t moving while I crank the engine. Timing chain must be broken. This is gonna hurt
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 07:46 AM
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That is a big issue, good luck.
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 08:28 AM
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Well start with a new C5 timing chain and gears. Do you remember if you had oil pressure?
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 09:58 AM
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Or a gear came loose or the cam broke.

What, if anything has been done? How many miles?
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by double06
Well start with a new C5 timing chain and gears. Do you remember if you had oil pressure?
I didn’t explicitly check oil pressure at the time, but I don’t remember seeing any warning lights or anything for that
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jfryjfry
Or a gear came loose or the cam broke.

What, if anything has been done? How many miles?
68k miles. It has headers, CAI, a tune, and a 25% underdrive pulley. I’ve read that the underdrive pulley can cause extra stress on the chain?
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 12:07 PM
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pretty good chance if you broke your timing chain that you have several if not all your valves bent from contact with the pistons. I've had a similar experience. Kinda sucks.
Good luck, Stafford
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Shift Point
I’ve read that the underdrive pulley can cause extra stress on the chain?
That's what I've heard. May be a result of harmonics that snap the chain around.
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 08:40 AM
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so -- any suggestions on some bulletproofing / go fast mods while I have this thing torn apart? I don't want to spend a ton of money but might as well throw some new parts in while it's torn down. Definitely putting a new cam in
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Shift Point
so -- any suggestions on some bulletproofing / go fast mods while I have this thing torn apart? I don't want to spend a ton of money but might as well throw some new parts in while it's torn down. Definitely putting a new cam in
Lots of suggestions. How much $$ and time you got
First, I'd dump that under-drive pulley. Since you are in there to replace the timing chain, you could invest in a cam kit. Other than that, you aren't doing much more unless you add a power adder or pull the motor for a (re)build.
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Shift Point
so -- any suggestions on some bulletproofing / go fast mods while I have this thing torn apart? I don't want to spend a ton of money but might as well throw some new parts in while it's torn down. Definitely putting a new cam in
If the valves are bent and heads are pulled, look for a set of LS3 heads and intake. Put rods in the intake and port match it to the heads since they will be off the car and easy to work with. Due to the crappy nature of the LS2 intake, the switch to the LS3 will get you a minimum of 30 Hp and 30 TQ if you cam the car.

Match your cam grind to the LS3 heads. With a a smaller cam (no fly cutting) you can easily end up around 460 RWHP for not a lot of extra coin by using the LS3 heads & intake. You can fly cut if you want a more aggressive cam and/or bump the compression to target 480+ RWHP.
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by schizcat
Lots of suggestions. How much $$ and time you got
First, I'd dump that under-drive pulley. Since you are in there to replace the timing chain, you could invest in a cam kit. Other than that, you aren't doing much more unless you add a power adder or pull the motor for a (re)build.
Trying to stay under $3k or so for parts (keep in mind I may have some damaged internals). I'll be doing the work myself and time really isn't an issue, but I won't be pulling the motor unless I have to for some reason. So are there any other easy bulletproofing upgrades I can take care of while I'm in there? or supporting mods for the cam?
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 04:13 PM
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Why would an underdrive pulley cause any additional strain on timing gear components? It just drives accessory components less.

My car came with a 10% under so this of course has me curious.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
Why would an underdrive pulley cause any additional strain on timing gear components? It just drives accessory components less.

My car came with a 10% under so this of course has me curious.

Thanks!
I’m also curious.. I’ve never really heard an explanation
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 07:30 PM
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The smaller the damper the less damping effect it has on the engine components hence the extra stress. Hence why ATI really doesn't like making stuff more than 10% under. However even their UD version is better than the one one so if you have an ATI I wouldn't switch at all. Now if you have like a 25% PowerBond or something that's different
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Old Dec 3, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Update: pulled the heads and I've got impacted pistons. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I don't know a lot about engine building. With the help of a more knowledgeable friend, we're going to replace the heads, cams, timing chain, timing gear, valves, and pushrods. What exactly needs done to replace the pistons? Do I need to pull the entire block and send it to a machine shop? And if so, what would the machine shop be doing and how much should I expect it to cost?




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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 04:07 PM
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I'd suggest an LS3 crate motor (480hp or 520hp variant,) or at least a used junkyard LS3 or maybe a L92 truck motor, and then you can pull your current motor, and either salvage what you can, or rebuild it and sell it to recoup the investment into your existing LS2.

Who knows, maybe you can hot rod a junkard truck motor for low money, and have some fun with it.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...s3-more-power/
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