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2004 C5Z with 210k+ miles
Full exhaust with long tube headers
I got the dreaded one click no start scenario Monday night. Tried everything i could do by myself to get it started with no success. Called my brother and we pulled it back home (was only half mile from the house).
After doing extensive researching on the forum, and seeing all the posts from bill, 87, and (can't think of username), I pretty much realized my starter is the culprit, so I went ahead and ordered one that night.
Got the exhaust off last night and was broke loose the start bolts, but have not full removed it yet due to lack of rest and being sick with a cold, laying a cold garage floor, decided to stop for the night.
Now, to my original reason for this thread, I've had this car for 6 years now, and it has always had issues with the battery cables not fully securing to the terminal posts. The clamps on the negative cable is pretty damaged and worn, so it doesn't always get the greatest securement on the post. Sometimes it leaves the car not wanting to start, but if I rotate the cable to get a better squeeze, the car will start right up. Happens every few months or so, no big deal.
But I figured if I'm swapping out the starter, might as well swap battery cables for new ones.
Problem I'm running into is that apparently factory battery cables on the side mount screw kind???? This car has had top post terminals on the batteries since I've had the car, which also having top post battery cables. Am I missing something here?
I don't really want to spend another $150-250 on a new battery just to put factory cables back in the car when there is nothing wrong with my current battery. (just replaced it last summer)
Last edited by Leftlane_1; 02-21-2019 at 01:13 PM.
The side posts were somewhat of a carry-over from the C4. If you've never seen the C4's battery position it's down low in the car which is ideal but it's inside the driver's wheel well area below the cruise control servo assembly. The change over in the final year model for C5s was likely due to how cumbersome side mount batteries can be (C6s are all top mount). The post heads are very easy to round out, the threads eventually wear which makes it difficult to get a good torque when tightening, and they can sometimes be difficult to get a wrench around especially if you're using an off-set boxed end wrench or larger drive socket.
The only major downside is for the C5 there is a specific nut that is used on the terminal for the top mounts. If it wears down or is damaged it can be difficult to source a replacement on it's own.
The cables should be tight at all times. If they're loose they can cause all sorts of issues to the charging system and in some extreme cases exhibit issues similar to a discharged battery (such as messing up the EBCM or causing column lock issues)
The side posts were somewhat of a carry-over from the C4. If you've never seen the C4's battery position it's down low in the car which is ideal but it's inside the driver's wheel well area below the cruise control servo assembly. The change over in the final year model for C5s was likely due to how cumbersome side mount batteries can be (C6s are all top mount). The post heads are very easy to round out, the threads eventually wear which makes it difficult to get a good torque when tightening, and they can sometimes be difficult to get a wrench around especially if you're using an off-set boxed end wrench or larger drive socket.
The only major downside is for the C5 there is a specific nut that is used on the terminal for the top mounts. If it wears down or is damaged it can be difficult to source a replacement on it's own.
The cables should be tight at all times. If they're loose they can cause all sorts of issues to the charging system and in some extreme cases exhibit issues similar to a discharged battery (such as messing up the EBCM or causing column lock issues)
I had to replace my alternator a few years ago, and just replaced the battery last summer. I do get the occasional "pull key wait 10 sec" code, more so during the winter. I went ahead and ordered the LMC5 bypass module, it should be here tuesday.
The post itself is fine, just the clamp on the cable itself is bent and doesnt always have a good connection to the battery terminal. I'm going to run by parts store today to see about picking up some new cables all together, or may looking getting those shims as mentioned above.
What concerns me is that looking online, most auto part store carry cheap $10-$15 cables, where as factory cables are $90 a piece. Why such a price difference?
What concerns me is that looking online, most auto part store carry cheap $10-$15 cables, where as factory cables are $90 a piece. Why such a price difference?
Thats what is called the corvette Tax . Overpriced parts can be avoided occasionally
02-21-2019, 01:11 PM
Replacing Battery Cables
