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That’s certainly a loaded question. Not a wrong answer for any of them.
An L48 makes the least peak horsepower, but can run on 87 octane. They also make decent low end torque, which is nice for around town. If you’re looking to buy one these will be the most affordable.
The L82 is a little peppier. The same short block as the earlier high performance hydraulic lifter small blocks. It makes more power than an L48, and will handle better than a big block car due to the reduced weight.
The 454 (LS4, LS5, or LS6) is the biggest mac daddy of them all. Loads of torque, and has lots of power all the way to redline. They were more expensive than the small block cars when brand new, and for good reason.
There were other engines put in C3s, like the 427s put in 1968 and 1969s, or the high revving LT-1 small block from 1970 to 1972. There’s also plenty of engine swapped cars too, like newer small blocks LSs or LTs, or even exotic things like a BMW V12 .
It’s hard to choose the wrong one.
Last edited by Piersonpie; May 23, 2026 at 12:29 AM.
None are bad choices. Big blocks make big torque if that's important to you. But also devoure fuel like it's free. But it's not.
L82 as noted above makes a little more power than the L48 and has good strong bones if you wish to hot it up.
Any of them I personally would modify for more power.
The true answer to your question lies in your intended use of the car.
Kind of a confusing question, depends on the year. You could only get the 454 from 1970 to 1974. Of those years with the exception of the 1970-1972 LT-1 I would say 454. Get the big hood looks and all that torque (you got the big hood with LT-1 as well). No AC with LT-1 except 72 and they made very few of those and they are collector cars for high bucks. As far as handling with the 454, sure it weighs a little more but you're not going to notice the difference unless you're tracking. From 75 through 80, they are horsepower challenged, so to me it's obvious grab the most you can with the L-82. You also get better internals with L-82.
I'd choose a roller with a manual transmission (or a really nice roller with an automatic, knowing that I'd have to swap the transmission, too).
With LS3 (C6) and LT1 (C7) engines available new from GM (among others), I don't know why anyone would ever bother with a carb and an original smog engine.
Pick the very best C3 you can find with a paint color you like. Everything else can be fixed. Price out LS-swapped restomods on Bring a Trailer for some examples.
Hello,
Lumping all 68-82 cars together is is not really fair.
As you know there were VAST differences in the both the car itself and the engines available during that period.
I think the 69-70 cars had the purest 'Corvette' appearance AND the widest selection of engines, both small block and big block.
For me the 350/350 engine would top the list in a 69 or 70 car.
That leaves you with what I think is the biggest decision.... coupe or convertible.
So????
Regards.....
And yet my photo is of a 68 BB car?????
I'm sooooooooo confused.
Hello,
Lumping all 68-82 cars together is is not really fair.
As you know there were VAST differences in the both the car itself and the engines available during that period.
I think the 69-70 cars had the purest 'Corvette' appearance AND the widest selection of engines, both small block and big block.
For me the 350/350 engine would top the list in a 69 or 70 car.
That leaves you with what I think is the biggest decision.... coupe or convertible.
So????
Regards.....
And yet my photo is of a 68 BB car?????
I'm sooooooooo confused.
I've finally decided Im looking for a 73.
l would obviously want a chrome bumper (68-72)
but I know I can't afford one, a 73 still has the rear chrome bumper so I'll have to settle for that.
if I can find a convertible I'd get it over a T-top one, but a convertible will be more expensive than a T-top, so I can settle for a T-top too.
Id rather get a manual but they're more valuable so I'll probably have to settle for an auto lol
Last edited by Mason warden; May 23, 2026 at 09:02 AM.
OP, If I'm reading you correctly, you really want a 68-72 Convertible 4 speed likely with the L46. Best advice is to search for the car you really want and don't settle.
I've finally decided Im looking for a 73.
l would obviously want a chrome bumper (68-72)
but I know I can't afford one, a 73 still has the rear chrome bumper so I'll have to settle for that.
if I can find a convertible I'd get it over a T-top one, but a convertible will be more expensive than a T-top, so I can settle for a T-top too.
Id rather get a manual but they're more valuable so I'll probably have to settle for an auto lol
what’s the rush? don’t settle! save for the one you want.
OP, If I'm reading you correctly, you really want a 68-72 Convertible 4 speed likely with the L46. Best advice is to search for the car you really want and don't settle.
Now choose the color.
~I.
when you have limited funds you kinda have to settle
I really like that yellow the closest to something like safari yellow? I know that wasn't available in 73 but something similar.
when you have limited funds you kinda have to settle
I really like that yellow the closest to something like safari yellow? I know that wasn't available in 73 but something similar.
The '73 model year does include a Yellow Metallic that almost appears golden. Save more money
I've finally decided Im looking for a 73.
l would obviously want a chrome bumper (68-72)
but I know I can't afford one, a 73 still has the rear chrome bumper so I'll have to settle for that.
if I can find a convertible I'd get it over a T-top one, but a convertible will be more expensive than a T-top, so I can settle for a T-top too.
Id rather get a manual but they're more valuable so I'll probably have to settle for an auto lol
Be very aware that both the coupes and convertibles have rust issues at the top and sides of the windshield frame, which can lead to rust issues in the A-pillar body mount. The chrome and stainless trim joints on both designs allowed water to enter the structure.
I have an automatic in my '72 and it's no slouch in the get up and go. Consider that in the recent thread about the '68 ZL-1 development prototype car the new engine was paired with the TH400 automatic. They are stout transmissions.
I understand wanting to get in to one of these cars as soon as possible, but once the newness and excitement wears off of the purchase of a car that you don’t really want suddenly you’ll wish you saved your money.
These cars can be money pits if you let them, and many people are okay with putting many times over a cars value into itself. I certainly was. But if you’re planning on owning this car for a long time and putting the work and money into keeping it nice and on the road make sure it’s one you actually want.
I understand wanting to get in to one of these cars as soon as possible, but once the newness and excitement wears off of the purchase of a car that you don’t really want suddenly you’ll wish you saved your money.
These cars can be money pits if you let them, and many people are okay with putting many times over a cars value into itself. I certainly was. But if you’re planning on owning this car for a long time and putting the work and money into keeping it nice and on the road make sure it’s one you actually want.
So approximately how much will I have to save for a driver quality 69 427 4 speed convertible? Im guessing 30k?
The engine and transmission are much easier to change than the model year of the car/appearance. It won’t be numbers matching if that’s something you care about, but a good quality ‘69 can probably be had for mid to low 30’s. It will probably be a small block automatic, but you can modify it to your hearts content from there.
Hello,
Really sad to put time and money into a car that's not what you really want.
The Ad to sell them usually goes "For Sale...Project. Lost interest. Make reasonable offer".
Regards....
