C3 Return to the Road
#1
C3 Return to the Road
I picked up a '79 with 61Kmi for $3500. It needs work. Supposedly it had been in a barn for 20 years, of course the owner claimed it had an L82 too. I'll get as many pics up as I can. It ran when I got it, though not good.
1. First thing was to replace the gas and install new plugs, wires, cap & rotor. It runs much better now. At least good enough to get it under cover. I am getting some backfiring when starting, actually shooting a 12 in flame out of the carburetor; timing or a valve issue?
2. Second step will be fluids and filters.
3. Brakes. The brake pedal goes straight to the floor. The reservoir is empty. I'd like to rebuild the calipers and master cylinder, and replace the brake lines where necessary. Any suggestions where to source parts?
4. Take it for a spin and check things out then address any remaining mechanical issues. I know there is some rust, I'll have to evaluate that as time goes on, hopefully no major nightmares.
5. Headers & pipes. There are some cracks or rust through on the headers. I'm hoping I can get them off and repair them then reinstall. Worst case I simply replace them with new. I'm thinking about wrapping them to keep things a little cooler under the hood, therefore cooler in the cockpit.
6. The interior needs to be redone. Changing from the rotting red to black with red accents most likely although beige might help it stay cooler.
7. When everything else is done, paint and wheels.
1. First thing was to replace the gas and install new plugs, wires, cap & rotor. It runs much better now. At least good enough to get it under cover. I am getting some backfiring when starting, actually shooting a 12 in flame out of the carburetor; timing or a valve issue?
2. Second step will be fluids and filters.
3. Brakes. The brake pedal goes straight to the floor. The reservoir is empty. I'd like to rebuild the calipers and master cylinder, and replace the brake lines where necessary. Any suggestions where to source parts?
4. Take it for a spin and check things out then address any remaining mechanical issues. I know there is some rust, I'll have to evaluate that as time goes on, hopefully no major nightmares.
5. Headers & pipes. There are some cracks or rust through on the headers. I'm hoping I can get them off and repair them then reinstall. Worst case I simply replace them with new. I'm thinking about wrapping them to keep things a little cooler under the hood, therefore cooler in the cockpit.
6. The interior needs to be redone. Changing from the rotting red to black with red accents most likely although beige might help it stay cooler.
7. When everything else is done, paint and wheels.
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ugly85chevy (09-11-2015)
#3
I bought most of my brake rebuilding components from Corvette Central. They actually were sent by VB&P (Vette Brakes and Products). The next order I had to put in for the remaining parts I just went directly to them. Most of the big vendors are pretty close in price for the caliper and master cylinder rebuild kits and they all come from just a few suppliers.
#4
Burning Brakes
That's an ambitious list, but Then again we were in your shoes a couple of years ago. When it comes to brakes there are a LOT of great info on this site. I ordered new calipers from NAPA. they were rebuilds of the originals. I'm not happy with the original design at all. replace all the rubber lines if you can, new master cylinder if it's in your budget. Great find, price was right. We paid 3300.00. $2500 would have been better but it's getting harder to find these cars much lower.
Congrats from another 79'er
Congrats from another 79'er
#5
Le Mans Master
I picked up a '79 with 61Kmi for $3500. It needs work. Supposedly it had been in a barn for 20 years, of course the owner claimed it had an L82 too. I'll get as many pics up as I can. It ran when I got it, though not good.
1. First thing was to replace the gas and install new plugs, wires, cap & rotor. It runs much better now. At least good enough to get it under cover. I am getting some backfiring when starting, actually shooting a 12 in flame out of the carburetor; timing or a valve issue?
2. Second step will be fluids and filters.
3. Brakes. The brake pedal goes straight to the floor. The reservoir is empty. I'd like to rebuild the calipers and master cylinder, and replace the brake lines where necessary. Any suggestions where to source parts?
4. Take it for a spin and check things out then address any remaining mechanical issues. I know there is some rust, I'll have to evaluate that as time goes on, hopefully no major nightmares.
5. Headers & pipes. There are some cracks or rust through on the headers. I'm hoping I can get them off and repair them then reinstall. Worst case I simply replace them with new. I'm thinking about wrapping them to keep things a little cooler under the hood, therefore cooler in the cockpit.
6. The interior needs to be redone. Changing from the rotting red to black with red accents most likely although beige might help it stay cooler.
7. When everything else is done, paint and wheels.
1. First thing was to replace the gas and install new plugs, wires, cap & rotor. It runs much better now. At least good enough to get it under cover. I am getting some backfiring when starting, actually shooting a 12 in flame out of the carburetor; timing or a valve issue?
2. Second step will be fluids and filters.
3. Brakes. The brake pedal goes straight to the floor. The reservoir is empty. I'd like to rebuild the calipers and master cylinder, and replace the brake lines where necessary. Any suggestions where to source parts?
4. Take it for a spin and check things out then address any remaining mechanical issues. I know there is some rust, I'll have to evaluate that as time goes on, hopefully no major nightmares.
5. Headers & pipes. There are some cracks or rust through on the headers. I'm hoping I can get them off and repair them then reinstall. Worst case I simply replace them with new. I'm thinking about wrapping them to keep things a little cooler under the hood, therefore cooler in the cockpit.
6. The interior needs to be redone. Changing from the rotting red to black with red accents most likely although beige might help it stay cooler.
7. When everything else is done, paint and wheels.
#6
Thanks.. Still working with the hood up. Hopefully as things loosen up that situation will get better. I already roasted the foam Edlebrock aircleaner that was on it... ooops.
#7
So it looks like the headers and pipes may be moving up on the priority list. It looks like there are more severe leaks than I originally thought. I wonder if they are worth repairing or if I should just replace with new. Does anyone know if headers are compatible between the L48 and L82? That will affect my decision.
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ugly85chevy (09-15-2015)
#9
Melting Slicks
Willcox is a great parts source as well as technical source, he gives forum discounts too. I wouldn't buy a stick of gum from Ecklers, they are a bunch of jerks and ripoffs so stay away from them...
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ugly85chevy (09-15-2015)
#10
Ok it looks like step 2 is getting brakes on this thing. I'm afraid to move it again without brakes. I pulled off the master cylinder cover and it is dry and cruddy. I think I may just replace it with a rebuilt unit rather than try to rebuild myself. I need to get underneath and inspect the brake lines. Any recommendations on should I bend my own if I need to replace or is it possible to get custom cut and bent lines?
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Wellington, FL
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
That's probably the best bet. If the car's been sitting around, there's a good chance the cylinder is corroded. M/C's are not expensive. Good luck.
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi u,
There are reproduction brake lines available for all the various lines needed. Some (the shorter lines) are easy to replace… but replacing the long line with a one piece line (as original) with the body in place takes a LOT of creativity.
Regards,
Alan
There are reproduction brake lines available for all the various lines needed. Some (the shorter lines) are easy to replace… but replacing the long line with a one piece line (as original) with the body in place takes a LOT of creativity.
Regards,
Alan
#13
I picked up a refurbished master cylinder. I plan to clean and paint it before installing so it doesn't get so rusty. I'm wondering if I should consider rebuilding the calipers or just replace them and how does one tell if they are good candidates for home rebuild?
#15
Racer
I also used NAPA life. warranty rotors, calipers, & pads....along w/ all the other brake parts in the rear...including replacing the entire park brake parts, which I wouldn't
be without!
be without!
#16
I've been slowly working on getting the headers off. Soaking bolts with PB-Blaster and pleasantly surprised that they are coming out. Dip stick is in the way but I may cut a section out of the header mounting plate if I cannot get it out.
I started pulling apart interior. I've got some rust pitting on floor but it still seems solid. I'll hit it with a wire wheel and some paint. The doors are near perfect almost no rust.
I started pulling apart interior. I've got some rust pitting on floor but it still seems solid. I'll hit it with a wire wheel and some paint. The doors are near perfect almost no rust.
#17
Burning Brakes
Good to hear you are moving forward and making progress! Got any pics to share?
Later,
Lee
Later,
Lee
#18
Le Mans Master
Brakes
I always first focus on brakes and steering. I would pull one of the calipers off and open to determine if they have been sleeved in stainless steel. If so, then you can rebuild them yourself with new seals, pistons etc. Consider using an O-ring set-up which you can purchase for about $150. Good luck. Jerry
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ugly85chevy (12-14-2015)
#20
Ah yeah, good advice but that is one thing the previous owner did is put on new tires. Just a couple years old according to the date code and no wear. Gonna clean and paint the rims then remount with white letters out.