phat87

My service says to torque the outer 1/2 shaft bolts to 150 ft.lb. Obviously this is a typo!

Could somebody please offer the correct spec (1976)

Teem66

I have an '80 but the specs for those bolts on mine are 14-20 nm and 24-32 nm. The higher numbers are probably for big blocks with more robust fasteners. (I know, an L82 isn't exactly what I would call a BB).

Big Block Dave

When I did my suspension rebuild, I used the info here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...fications.html

For those bolts, its listed as 75 ft lb

7T1vette

Those bolts are fine thread and Grade 8 bolts. My '71 AIM shows them torqued at 60-90 ft-lbs. They also have French locks to keep the bolts from backing out. If I were doing it, I would set them at 75 ft-lbs and reuse the factory French locks that came off the car. If you have to settle for the [flimsy] French locks available in the aftermarket, also use some 'Blue' Loctite on the bolt threads to make certain that they don't back out.

P.S. If you use the Blue Loctite and need to remove them in the future, you will have to use a torch (Propane or other) to heat the bolt over 300*F to free the Loctite bond before removing them.

Avette4me

Use it sparingly and you won't have to go to all that trouble.

7T1vette

Regardless of how much you use, Blue Loctite requires 300*F heat to break its bond. It is intended for 'permanent' applications.

Mooser

Loctite red is permanent and requires heat to remove
Loctite blue is medium strength and is removable with handtools

M

7T1vette

Feeble brain failed me again. The permanent Loctite is my recommendation. You do not want those bolts backing out. And, the flimsy French locks available on the aftermarket won't guarantee that.

phat87

I went with 65# and some RED Loctite. The car will be parked for the winter and I am working a refurb rear end to replace all this. That's one reason I didn't paint anything. This ain't NCRS, it's get "er done and out the door.

Thanks for the help.

jb78L-82

If you use the OEM french locks, the bolts will not come loose-they can't….

For whatever it is worth, I removed mine about 30 years ago, tightened by hand feel, and replaced the OEM french locks…..and they have not budged in all that time….hmmmm

'75

I hate rusted bolts, so, all bolts get either anti-seize or lock-tite. The lock-tite serves a dual purpose, it seals the threads to keep out rust as well as the well known benefit.

edit, except internal powertrain fasteners.

MrJlr

I just make them freakin tight.....I don't bother with no stinkin torque wrench.

And they're still tight and fine years later.

Torque head bolts, crank shafts etc - yes.....
Some of it gets ridiculous..........

My $.02

Edit: Not to mention that they have french locks.

jb78L-82

EXACTLY right on….

Solid LT1

I would let Phat87 work on my Vette.....65ft/lbs is correct torque value but, if I'm reusing fasteners I'll be happy with 60ft/lbs......red Loctite on threads AND if you use French locks....do yourself a favor and coat backside of bolt head with a little lubricant to prevent bolt head from grabbing the French lock and twisting it.....using lubricant under bolt head you might want to back off torque to 50-55ft/lbs as it can affect torque values. The torque value for a SAE 7/16-20 thread bolt specs out as 78ft/lbs unplated and 58ft/lbs for a plated fastener. On my race Vettes where I'm unconcerned about proper fasteners I use new flywheel bolts from Pioneer Engine fasteners they are excellent quality and cheap.....these same fasteners can be use for brake caliper fasteners.....the NCRS boys won't like them but, if your running your Vette at the race track....old fasteners in these areas shouldn't be part of your program

Kenneth A. Hodges

PA LEASE, before you go 'quoting' some IMPORTANT torque spec. make SURE you know what you're talking about. I can't understand HOW this site has so much misinformation!

'75

Got it's share of trolls too! You brought an 8 year old thread to scold a senior member.