diehrd

He needs to look under steering column for the James bond slick get away switch LMAO

derekderek

just don't hit the rocket launcher switch. and wait till spousal unit is aboard to try the ejection seat.

joshtried

Thanks for the info guys. I already plan on building an engine.. I even have a 454 sitting in my garage waiting for a tear down.
As for the spousal unit, I don't know that I'll ever have one of those again. Definitely not worth the headache from the last one. The oil slick button would be pretty bad ***!

And I've been around CF for a while. I do know it can be irritating when OPs dont come back.

BLUE1972

If you're pushing that much oil:

If one sided = clogged oil passages / return

Both sides: Assumes breather on both sides = valve not seated and very bad guide (bent valve), very worn rings or frozen ring allowing pressure into the engine oil areas / block.
Cracked head, blown head gasket = pressure into engine oil passage's. Hole in the piston = same.

Crossed wires causing a severe miss-fire = blow-by.

The PCV system is only designed to remove "gas with contaminates " rather than release them into the atmosphere. If you are using it to control blow by , you will foul plugs.

Any SBC will run and not spit oil without a PCV system as noted on C2's without it from the factory.

I would clean the oil drain holes and run a compression test.. and go from there.

joshtried

pictures!!!

driver side now

driver side before

driver side valves

chunk of metal found sitting in driver side head

passenger side valves

joshtried

all passages seem clear.
both openings have baffles behind them.
the holes at the top of the head that you can look down into to see the lifters are all clear, but they all look corroded, and i actually broke a piece of one off because it looked like it was going to come off anyway..


edit to answer blue: the oil has only come from the passenger side.

derekderek

piece you broke off was casting flash. clean engine inside. not plugged drain backs. do a compression check. something bad happened...is the blowby a steady stream or puff puff puff?

Cavu2u

Josh,

Is that pcv line supposed to plug right into the carb base?

Steve

joshtried

Derek: puff, puff, puff. also, pcv valve pulls vacuum with engine running.

Steve: as far as i know, yes.

Cavu2u

OK.
Just seems there's a lot more suction from there as opposed to an air cleaner attachment and PCV filter.

Steve

derekderek

ok, you got 1 bad cyl. comp test will tell which one, then that head is coming off to see whether it is valve, unlikely or a busted ring or piston. at least this is an easy car to drop the oil pan...

DUB

YES...that is where the PCV hose get attached for it to work

The air cleaner is the filtered air being drawn into the engine....which is NOT the same as the PCV supply hose. The air cleaner attachment hose is NOT suction for the PCV. I think you got this confused .

PUFF,PUFF, PUFF that you can feel with your hand coming out of the valve cover grommet when the PCV is connected and the engine running......means worn out engine and severe blow-by.

And I bet that the engine can be easily manually spun by using the alternator belt. I have had several over the years with this SAME ISSUE....

DUB

Cavu2u

Well, somewhat easy Derek. I have to remove the Steering Idler from the frame to keep the tie rods from blocking the pan removal.

I'm lazy.

Steve

joshtried

thanks for the replies one and all...

IF i just put a cap in the breather hole on the passenger side, its not going to make things any worse would it? Could i get away with that so I'm not leaving a trail of smoke? at least while the other is being built...

im aware of the need for rebuild at this point, but dumping anything into this with a 454 sitting in the corner anyway seems kinda pointless

7T1vette

You have an oil 'cap' on the fill tube. Normally, that should have a breather-type cap (similar to what you have on the right valve cover. You have a PCV valve in the left cover and it is routed to the carb base; that is as it should be.

What I don't see is how fresh air is getting into the crankcase. I suppose it gets there via that breather cap on the right cover....when it's not blowing oil OUT of that cap.

Good luck on finding the problems with the engine.

Hammerhead Fred

Blow by is caused by the pressurization of the crankcase due to poor piston/combustion chamber sealing (be it rings or a hole in the piston). No amount of sealing up the crankcase is going to contain that pressure because the crankcase isn't designed for it. Even if you seal up the valve covers tight the pressure will blow out the dip stick or will push out the weakest block gaskets should the PCV valve not be able to relieve the pressure. And the pressurized oil & crankcase gases are being sucked into your intake where they surely create additional exhaust smoke. You'll be able to drive it, but you won't go unnoticed. In the long run the crankcase oil will get "washed down" resulting in bearing failure.

REELAV8R

A few things you could try if you want a stop gap to get you by for a little while.
You could have a ring that is carbon seized. This means due to the build up of carbon in the ring groove it can no longer expand to form a seal on the cylinder wall under pressure. To attempt to free it. Seafoam sucked into the engine via a vacuum line could free it up, or GM actually has a top end cleaner as well that they use for high mileage engines.

Another one is a product called "Restore" engine restorer and lubricant. It's supposed to help with ring seal due to worn rings.

Also thicker oil will help to seal the rings better. Think 20w50. Many "motor honey" products like STP oil treatment available as well that thicken the oil in an attempt to produce better ring seal or for loose bearing clearances.

Finally you could install a "catch can" This is a can that will catch and separate the oil from the blowby so that you can stop leaving a big mess and even recover some of the lost oil.

All of these are usually temporary fixes at best. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, but it might get you by until the rebuild/re-ring can be done.