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Hood Latch

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Old 10-13-2016, 08:45 AM
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rmgny44
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Default Hood Latch

On my '72 the passenger side hood latch occasionally pops open while I'm driving. Anyone have instructions on how to adjust the latches?
Old 10-13-2016, 10:14 AM
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Alan 71
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Hi r,
Do all this carefully and do the adjustments gradually so you don't end up getting that side of the hood stuck closed.
There are a couple of things to check.
First check that the latch on the RIGHT hood corner is FULLY opening and closing when you cycle the LEFT side latch. (the cable opens/closes the right side latch). It's possible it's not closing fully.
If the latch is fully closing the rubber bumper on the firewall part of the latch MAY be preventing the latch on the hood from fully grabbing the 'probe' on the firewall latch. Lower the rubber bumper just a little to see if that changes anything.
If that doesn't help RAISE the probe just a little bit at a time since that will insert the probe further into the latch on the hood and make it easier for the hood latch to fully grab the probe.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

The part of the latch that moves and grabs the probe.


The probe and the bumper; both are adjustable.
Old 10-13-2016, 01:27 PM
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jim in oregon
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and if you can..with hood up, manually close both latches and try the hood cable pull and see IF both are unlatching properly..jim
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:32 PM
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Sigforty
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I would check to see where it is lining up now. What I do is cover the latch on the hood with masking tap. Then put some grease or other material to mark the tap on the body latch. Then close the hood and see where the center of the bottom point is hitting the latch hole on the hood. This can help you figure out what adjustments you might need to make to center them up.
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Old 10-14-2016, 01:03 PM
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rmgny44
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi r,
Do all this carefully and do the adjustments gradually so you don't end up getting that side of the hood stuck closed.
There are a couple of things to check.
First check that the latch on the RIGHT hood corner is FULLY opening and closing when you cycle the LEFT side latch. (the cable opens/closes the right side latch). It's possible it's not closing fully.
If the latch is fully closing the rubber bumper on the firewall part of the latch MAY be preventing the latch on the hood from fully grabbing the 'probe' on the firewall latch. Lower the rubber bumper just a little to see if that changes anything.
If that doesn't help RAISE the probe just a little bit at a time since that will insert the probe further into the latch on the hood and make it easier for the hood latch to fully grab the probe.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

The part of the latch that moves and grabs the probe.


The probe and the bumper; both are adjustable.
Alan you are a wealth of information! This should be a "paid position" for you! Thanks.
Old 10-14-2016, 06:46 PM
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DUB
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FROM PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE....

I have had this happen to numerous 1968-1972 Corvettes. Do not ask me why it seems to be these year models...but it just seems to be that way.

I have found that the cowl area where the right hood latch mounts...can seem to be fatigued. I can grab the mount and move it with minor effort.

SO...when I get the hood to work perfectly when it is sittign on level ground. I can drive it and the right side will pop up. The IF I adjust it a bit more...sometimes you can run into a 'hood lock down' scenario.

SO...when I often times comment when I see how people use safety jack stands and place then in areas that I comment on and let them know that area can cause for a problem....WELL....this CAN BE one of those problems.

Frame and cowl fatigue and now twisting in the whole front end causes the hood to pop up.

BE REALLY careful when you do this....and that is only because I know if I had your car in my shop...I would be really careful...because I have had my fair share of hoods that lock down and are a ROYAL PAIN to get open again.

ALSO..the hood hinges need to be in really good condition and no excessive play in the pivot rivet. It is pointless to try to adjust a hood when the hinges have mind of their own.

DUB
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Old 10-14-2016, 07:00 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi DUB,
The fact that the male side of the latch can can move because of cowl fatigue surprises me.
I would think that since the steel plate the latch sits on is riveted to the cowl in 4 different planes that would be prevented.
I guess I could understand it better if the latch sat right on the cowl fiberglass.
Thanks!
Regards,
Alan


Last edited by Alan 71; 10-14-2016 at 07:06 PM.
Old 10-15-2016, 09:34 AM
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jnb5101
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Adjust the rubber stops as Alan mentioned first and confirm that the latch pins are centered in the receivers. Another cause could be inadequate contact of the latch to the underside of the pin. There is an adjustment plate(rectangular plate with holes) attached to the cable. Make sure that both latches retract equally. Manually push the release plate(the part that the cabin release cable strikes) on the driver's side in order to check that both sides move equally. Move the clevis pin if necessary. Before attempting these adjustments scribe lines around the hood hinges on the hood side, and remove the rearward hood bolt. If you lock the hood down, the forward bolt can be accessed from under the car and the hood removed. Get under the car and you will understand this procedure-it could save you a lot of grief.
Old 10-15-2016, 06:15 PM
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DUB
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi DUB,
The fact that the male side of the latch can can move because of cowl fatigue surprises me.
I would think that since the steel plate the latch sits on is riveted to the cowl in 4 different planes that would be prevented.
I guess I could understand it better if the latch sat right on the cowl fiberglass.
Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
I know it seems a bit far fetched....but I have no other explanation to this anomaly.

When I move the latch with minimal pressure, I can see 'things' moving....and seeing how the hood pops up on the right side...I can not thing of anything else....other than the fatigue in the cowl/frame components due to being supported with jack stands in a location where the weight of the front end allows it to sag greatly.

As for 'jnb5101's description. It is very good!

I might add....if you plan on removing the rear hood bolts on the hood hinge attached to the hood...No need in taking it all the way out. Just loosen it. AND...before you do that...because I have run into many hoods where the hood hinge bolts attached to the hood are really rusty and may seem to snap off.

I would...one by one....loosen the bolt and then re-tighten it until you get all four bolts to come loose. Then loosen the rearward bolts if that is how you want do it.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 10-15-2016 at 06:26 PM.

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