ggrassmid

I am in need of some help. Saturday I drove my '85 to my buddy's place to replace some stuff over the weekend. I bought new Bosch III injectors from FIC, fuel pressure regulator, and a new racetronix fuel pump w/ their wiring harness. We pulled everything apart Saturday, and had to break all the injector clips to get the old injectors out of the fuel rail, no biggy, Design III's dont use the clips. I did, however, need to get new O-rings for the feed and return line since they were NG.

So I go back up Tueday night to put everything back together. I got the new pump in and wired with the new harness. We put injectors in the manifold and set the fuel rail, with adjustable regulator, onto the injectors(made sure the O-rings were lubed up well) and tighted everything down. All the injectors felt like they seated, so we connected the battery and primed the rail while checking the fuel pressure as well. Pressure come up to 30psi, and since I wanted to go up to around 42-43 we screwed in the adjustment. I had to screw in the adjustment bold all the way to get the pressure to show 43psi, at which point we found an injector the leaked out of the fuel rail. Fixed that, no fuel leaks now.

We had to pull the dissy, so obviously we had to re-time it. Back to about 4* right now, we figured that was close enough for a starting point.

The new thing I notice now, is I can hear like a gurgling sound in the fuel rail when the pump primes/runs. We can crank the motor over but get no fire. We pulled 2 different plugs and checked spark, CHECK. There is fuel in the fuel rail and the pump runs on both the stock wiring harness, and the new harness. We sprayed starting fluid into intake and it will fire and attempt to run on that, obviously not long or well, but at least we know we have spark and at the correct time. We got oil pressure, when cranking psi goes up above 20.

Some of the other things I did with the intake off is: I removed the cold start injector, capped off the EGR(was unplugged already), removed and unplugged the EGR solinoid and temp sensor.

In no way am I implying that the injectors are bad or FIC does not carry a great product. I did even call John and FIC last night, which at the point the timing was off, which did not help our cause. And I cant imaging the 8 injectors would be bad.

I'm looking for any ideas that may help get the car running, thanks for you help and ideas!!

ggrassmid

Oh, one more things. When turning the motor over, we cant hear the injectors click. We also pulled #1 plug, turned motor over for about 15-20 sec and couldnt feel any dampness and the plugs looked dry. Which makes us thing something is cause the injectors not to pulse.

engle1147

I'd say there is something wrong with you regulator/AFPR install.....the adjustment screw shouldn't have to be turned down so far to get into the correct pressure zone. Did you put a new regulator diaphram into the pressure regulator or did you use the old one? I'm not totally sure if the the '85 uses the steel spacer on top of the regulator's spring or not.
You might what to apply +12 volts to pin "G" on the ALDL (makes the fuel pump run) to check pressures again. Ensure that the fuel rail pressure "holds" for a few minutes once the jumper wire is removed from pin "G".

Use a test light to see/ensure if the injector's harness is pulsing when engine is cranked normally. Watch the RPM gauge in the dash to ensure something is registering when cranked.

If the cold start has been removed it may take a few more seconds of cranking to get the engine started even if everthing else is in order.

Worst case you spray some stating fluid into the TB for a few seconds (5) then try to start it to see if it tries to fire.

ggrassmid

I reused the old diaphram, though it looked fairly new. I did put that spacer disc on top of the spring before I put the regulator on. I could removed the reg and re-seat it, I dont have gas coming out of the vac line, so I dont think I broke it.

We rechecked the pressure, starting from the set screw all the way out (30spi) to all the way in(43psi).

The pump does run with the key, so I dont see a need to jumper the ALDL connector.

Thanks for the suggestions and getting the brain juices flowing :-)

John A. Marker

Are you sure that you have the distributor back in correctly and not 180 off? If it is 180 off you might not get any attempt to fire. This can even happen if it is not timed correctly. Double check by pulling plug #1 and turn crank until you feel pressure in #1. Turn the crank until the timing mark is at 0 or if you want 6 degrees. Then pull of the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointed to plug wire #1. IF it is not....that is your problem. Then rotate distributor until it lines up...or pull and rotate distributor as needed (may have to use a long screwdriver to turn oil pump shaft to get things to line up).

ggrassmid

We got the timing as close to correct as we can at this point, we checked it twice after it was off. We cranked the engine over by hand, not key, three times to make sure we were on correct compression stroke for #1 with the plug out. We put the crank timing mark at about +4* and set the dizzy in the where #1 is on the cap. cranked it but no fire, no attempt. Sprayed starting fluid into intake and it would try and run on the starting fluid.

actionpaintball

Did you test for injector pulse?

ggrassmid

No, we're pretty sure that's the problem. We dont have a noid tester, and we were doing this at about 10pm, so renting one was out of the option by then. Both of us work during the day, as this is more of a hobby, and its almost a 2hr drive for me to get up to were the car is at. I'll see if I can find a tester to rent.

coorslight

It sounds like injectors , you say in 2 that you dont hear the injectors clicking

coorslight

n post 2that is,check for voltage.......

pcolt94

Can you lift the one or both sides of the injector banks up and out and then crank it to actually see if the injectors are spraying any fuel. If they are not, then you have a good starting place to zero in on.

If they are spraying, then I might look at the quality of the spark.

ggrassmid

How would I go about check for voltage?
When I called John @ FIC, which I agree with, 8 injectors from him arent going to be bad when I put them in... unless I have REAL bad luck.. haha

ggrassmid

Would I not feel any dampness from the cylinder on the compression stroke? When we removed the spark plug, it looked dry, and when cranking the motor over with plug removed, I stuck my finger in hole so I could feel the compression go past my hand and did not see or feel any dampess.

engle1147

If your going to skip the fuel pressure checks at this point the injector pulse checks would be my next move.

Just about any test probe light will do even one of these: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...7CGRP2020A____

pcolt94

This might be extremely elementary but could you have a open fuse or fuse link that supplies the 12 volts to the injectors. With the engine not cranking you should have power on both terminals of each injector. If you can't physically get in there to make the measurement with a DVM, you can dis-connect the connector to the injector and measure 12 volts on one of the terminals. If you don’t have voltage the injectors can't operate. I would do this before I pulled the injectors out to check for spraying as I suggested.

You can make a noid light with almost any kind of LED and a resistor of 680 ohms but exact value is not at all critical, close is perfectly OK. Put the two in series and connect to terminal of injector that did not have the constant 12 volts and the other end of the series combination to ground. You need to observe the correct polarity of the LED to have it light, wrong way won't light. Just test it on 12 volt first.

ggrassmid

We're gonna double check the distrubtor since that has been in and out and shook all about, LOL. We may have just missed a plug or something so the pickup coil is not triggering the ECM to pulse the injectors. I have a hard time believe I can go from driving it to removing the intake and causing a voltage issue, but hey, anything is possible.

AGENT 86

Is the 4 pin connector at base of dizzy, plugged in ?

ggrassmid

that's what we're going to check tonight.

surfer92

Did you mark the distributor's rotor position before removal?

ggrassmid

yes we did, but when we went to set it back in, we couldnt get it to line back up to the same spot, so we knew we were going to have to re-time it. We just didnt re-time it to the correct possition the first time. Timing is not an issue any more.

As Agent86 said, it is possible we forgot to plug in the 4-pin connector on the base of the distributor. I am hoping that its just as simple as that