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Need advise removing the front fender liner.
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
Posts: 3,454
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Need advise removing the front fender liner.
What the best way to remove the front fender liner and which type of bonding Adhesive do i need to reinstall.
#2
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
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I guess no one has done it,However i spoke with some other guys and they suggested using a flame torch,putty knife and a small hammer. This method works great! You heat up the area close to the liner,then your pry with putty knife and tap with hammer a little at a time,while someone else shakes it alittle. you do this until it comes off.
My first one took us 30 minutes.
My first one took us 30 minutes.
#3
Team Owner
The issue, as I remember, is the installation as the chassis must be in an alignment stand. Mine cracked and I patched it instead of replacing for that reason.
#4
Melting Slicks
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Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
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What type of material did you use to repair the inner fender?
#5
Race Director
I've read in the s/m that an alignment stand to make sure the frame is straight. I think it's durable,all markings are there from the old one,so the only issue I see is the gap. I think if I pre assemble the housing and fender then partially install it along with the bumper and hood to allign,I can get the gap. And then, I may chicken out and just repair mine. I'm concern with mine because the front of the inner fender that attaches to the front of the fender by the light cut out is gone. I may be able to make it work by making an "L" brace,but I thinking it will start looking un professional.
What type of material did you use to repair the inner fender?
What type of material did you use to repair the inner fender?
You can align by attaching the fender to the inner skirt and then re-align it to the floow the hood and door panels. Once you get it into position you can put a couple of bar clamps on it and mark some reference lines.
#6
Team Owner
I had a crack in mine and used a scrap inner fender from which I cut a patch that I attached to the wheel side of the part. I also used the appropriate 3M adhesive and the new fender is stronger than new in that location. On the motor side of the inner fender, I used some tape to mask off a section and then put a skim coat of the same adhesive to hide the crack. Once that cured, I used the Callaway Honker CARB sticker to cover the skim coat so you really won't know the crack was there unless you look hard. If you have a lot of actual damage you may not have any choice and need to replace it.
#7
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
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I'm having issues getting the right stuff to put it on. a cross over from the dealer stuff.
the front of mine where it hold the fender is broken off. and the other one has come loose and is sagging about 1/4 on an inch
the front of mine where it hold the fender is broken off. and the other one has come loose and is sagging about 1/4 on an inch
#8
Team Owner
What are you trying to get from the dealer? I bought my adhesive from a company in the south (can't remember the name) who stocks all of this stuff and the mixing guns, etc. I still don't have power thanks to Hurricane Irene otherwise I would see if I could locate the information.
Do you have a photo of the area you are trying to repair?
Do you have a photo of the area you are trying to repair?
#10
Adhesive
Pliogrip Plastic Panel 15 or 35 by Valvoline (made by Ashland Chemical). This is what GM says to use. One has 15 minute handling time, the other, of course, is 35.
Just went through all this on a 2000 coupe I'm rebuilding. Put the headlight on the inner fender to hold the front, and the metal brackets on the back to the door post. Hang the outer fender to get aligned to door. Make sure the back is high enough. Rear-most hole in top of fender screws to windshield cowl. not inner fender. That screw makes a good locating point for the back end. Adjust everything for a good fit, and use a few thin strips of something the thickness of a paint stirring stick for proper gap at glue points. Mark as many reference points as you can on frame, headlight to frame bolts and door post bracket bolts so it goes back exactly where it was when adjusted. Pull outer fender off, pull inner fender off with headlight assembly and rear brackets tightened down to inner fender. Apply glue and have someone help to put the whole thing back on. Don't forget shims. With this process, everything lined up nicely, even the hood to fender gap.
Just went through all this on a 2000 coupe I'm rebuilding. Put the headlight on the inner fender to hold the front, and the metal brackets on the back to the door post. Hang the outer fender to get aligned to door. Make sure the back is high enough. Rear-most hole in top of fender screws to windshield cowl. not inner fender. That screw makes a good locating point for the back end. Adjust everything for a good fit, and use a few thin strips of something the thickness of a paint stirring stick for proper gap at glue points. Mark as many reference points as you can on frame, headlight to frame bolts and door post bracket bolts so it goes back exactly where it was when adjusted. Pull outer fender off, pull inner fender off with headlight assembly and rear brackets tightened down to inner fender. Apply glue and have someone help to put the whole thing back on. Don't forget shims. With this process, everything lined up nicely, even the hood to fender gap.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
Posts: 3,454
Received 83 Likes
on
69 Posts
Pliogrip Plastic Panel 15 or 35 by Valvoline (made by Ashland Chemical). This is what GM says to use. One has 15 minute handling time, the other, of course, is 35.
Just went through all this on a 2000 coupe I'm rebuilding. Put the headlight on the inner fender to hold the front, and the metal brackets on the back to the door post. Hang the outer fender to get aligned to door. Make sure the back is high enough. Rear-most hole in top of fender screws to windshield cowl. not inner fender. That screw makes a good locating point for the back end. Adjust everything for a good fit, and use a few thin strips of something the thickness of a paint stirring stick for proper gap at glue points. Mark as many reference points as you can on frame, headlight to frame bolts and door post bracket bolts so it goes back exactly where it was when adjusted. Pull outer fender off, pull inner fender off with headlight assembly and rear brackets tightened down to inner fender. Apply glue and have someone help to put the whole thing back on. Don't forget shims. With this process, everything lined up nicely, even the hood to fender gap.
Just went through all this on a 2000 coupe I'm rebuilding. Put the headlight on the inner fender to hold the front, and the metal brackets on the back to the door post. Hang the outer fender to get aligned to door. Make sure the back is high enough. Rear-most hole in top of fender screws to windshield cowl. not inner fender. That screw makes a good locating point for the back end. Adjust everything for a good fit, and use a few thin strips of something the thickness of a paint stirring stick for proper gap at glue points. Mark as many reference points as you can on frame, headlight to frame bolts and door post bracket bolts so it goes back exactly where it was when adjusted. Pull outer fender off, pull inner fender off with headlight assembly and rear brackets tightened down to inner fender. Apply glue and have someone help to put the whole thing back on. Don't forget shims. With this process, everything lined up nicely, even the hood to fender gap.
Thanks! this is what I was looking for
What material do you suggest to repair a crack on the inner liner itself as well as a punture on the bumper cover?
#12
SMC Repair
Pliogrip SMC Repair for cracks in the inner fender. If severe, you can lay in a piece of fiberglass cloth. This stuff gets heat cured. A halogen shop light aimed close for 10 minutes works well. I applied some of this material to the glue areas of the inner fenders where some of the SMC was roughed up from the removal and sanded with a DA, turned out perfect. This would be the same material to repair cracks or damage to the hood, doors, rear quarters, rockers and any of the inner structures. If using for a body repair, there is a finishing cream to make a fine, sandable surface for painting. Supposedly, conventional body fillers are not suitable for SMC due to different expansion and contraction characteristics. As for flexible components, there are Pliogrip materials for those too, however, I have a friend who works for a national company that specializes in bumper reconditioning so I just let him plastic weld those parts.