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Track - Best brake pads for Z06 (cast iron rotors)

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Old 08-24-2015, 04:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by turbo8765
Are the stock pads adequate for an advanced driver at a track that's easy on brakes (Roebling)?


I'm thinking Carbotech for my street driving and then using the OEM pads for the occassional (1-2 times/year) track time. Based on that schedule how long, on average, will the OEM pads last for track-only use?
Old 08-24-2015, 07:26 PM
  #22  
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Cobalt Racing Brakes...

We started using Cobalt almost 10 years ago...AFTER Ferrodo, AFTER PFC, AFTER Raybestos....what we had found is that the pads not only stopped better, they had more torque, better release, and much better wear rates than anything else that had been on the market.

Certainly there are bigger names out there, and pads that you will see more advertising for, but Cobalt has been built around the racer and only does track pads. There are no truck pads, there are no dustless car show pads...it is performance or nothing.

Andy Lin, the owner and creator of the company and the compounds has developed these pads along side racers like ourselves and other Pro teams. You will find Cobalt pads on almost every Indy light car, most of the open wheel Mazda's, many World Challenge teams, and ALMS/Tudor cars.

There are a number of compounds out there and we can help you select the one that is right for your car and use.

http://www.cobaltfriction.com/Default.asp
Old 02-17-2016, 06:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by C7_Z06
There are the 'stock' replacement pads I bought form Amazon... pic below are the stock (old vs. new). I noticed they wear down faster on the track than the original OEM pads my car came with... I have 2 track days already with the new front pads and I have a feeling it may not last another 2 track days. Moving forward, I will definitely go with 2 sets- 1 for the track and 1 for the street since swapping out is pretty quick & easy.

"Ac-Delco" is often times not the original equipment part. It will work in it's place.

Call your dealer, bet you there are two different part numbers for original equipment and AC-Delco parts on the those pads. I was a service writer in a GM dealer and saw this a bunch.

Call this guy, ask for him in parts. Jason Cromer 877-726-8295. He sells at cost +10%.

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 02-17-2016 at 07:15 PM.
Old 02-17-2016, 07:12 PM
  #24  
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that even if there is an AC-Delco pad for the C7Z that it won't be any good on track.
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Poor-sha
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that even if there is an AC-Delco pad for the C7Z that it won't be any good on track.
Anyone know if Pagids make pads for the Z? I've had excellent experiences with them on my M3. Easy on the rotors but consistent stopping power over an entire weekend at the track in 90' ambient temps. I had the rotors on my 6 hour drive to and back from the track with no issues except for brake squeal after the track weekend which is normal
Old 02-17-2016, 09:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Poor-sha
Jeff - I assume the DSUNO will result in more rotor wear over the DS 1.11? Are the compounds compatible from a bedding perspective?

I'm happy with the DS 1.11 but I have to wonder if I'm not missing something with all the folks that like high bite/mu pads. On my C6Z I was one of the few folks that ran DTC-60 instead of DTC-70 on the front. Perhaps I should try the high bite life.
Go to 70s front and 60s rear!

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Old 02-17-2016, 10:34 PM
  #27  
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I'll have to echo what Anthony at LG motorsports has said: I've been using the Cobalt pads for my 2015 Z06 with steel rotors and they have been fantastic. They perform VERY VERY well. So well that when I feel like I'm late braking, I still find that I overbrake into corners easily.

I did have one issue, and I'm not making this up, but the last time I went to COTA and threshold braked into turn 12 (turn after the longest straight), I had 2 instances where I got a warning for me to have my airbag checked. I suspect that the car assumed I got into wreck because I decelerated so rapidly. It's that good.
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by sporttplus
I did have one issue, and I'm not making this up, but the last time I went to COTA and threshold braked into turn 12 (turn after the longest straight), I had 2 instances where I got a warning for me to have my airbag checked. I suspect that the car assumed I got into wreck because I decelerated so rapidly. It's that good.
This happens to me like clockwork through T7 at Sebring. So much so that I've gotten used to hitting the steering wheel "Dismiss" button after I shift to 4th through T8.
S.
Old 05-19-2016, 03:51 AM
  #29  
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I tried Cobalt XR1 and XR2 combo on my Camaro SS 1LE with stock Brembo calipers + full brake ducting, and they were actually the only pads that faded among top pads we've tested out. I thought it was my problem, until another forum member also had fading issues with XR1s at a demanding track, and his issues also got resolved once he switched pads. I never ever had any fading issue with the Raybestos pads. I have to admit, though, I kept the XR2s at the rear until they were done since they were very quiet (meaning I could keep my race pads on the car in summer/track season).

Many ZL1 / 1LE owners also use Raybestos ST47s on CTS/V ZL1 calipers, which use the same pad as the C7 Z06 calipers (and calipers are almost identical, too, except pistons), and they are quite happy with the results. Keep in mind, ZL1 is a 4050 lbs car; it needs all the help it can get : )

Here's the video of the fade:

Last edited by X25; 05-19-2016 at 05:44 AM.
Old 05-19-2016, 05:18 AM
  #30  
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...OEM.... of course.


...Pay to play.


.......................... Carbon replace brake prices r $$

Old 05-19-2016, 01:33 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Anthony @ LGMotorsports
Cobalt Racing Brakes...

We started using Cobalt almost 10 years ago...AFTER Ferrodo, AFTER PFC, AFTER Raybestos....what we had found is that the pads not only stopped better, they had more torque, better release, and much better wear rates than anything else that had been on the market.

Certainly there are bigger names out there, and pads that you will see more advertising for, but Cobalt has been built around the racer and only does track pads. There are no truck pads, there are no dustless car show pads...it is performance or nothing.

Andy Lin, the owner and creator of the company and the compounds has developed these pads along side racers like ourselves and other Pro teams. You will find Cobalt pads on almost every Indy light car, most of the open wheel Mazda's, many World Challenge teams, and ALMS/Tudor cars.

There are a number of compounds out there and we can help you select the one that is right for your car and use.

http://www.cobaltfriction.com/Default.asp
I concur! I run Cobalt Friction XR1 front and XR2 rears on my racecar, and XR3 on my street car (C5Z with Stoptech BBK)
Old 05-19-2016, 05:32 PM
  #32  
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Having no issues running Carbotech XP20 or XP24 front with XP10 rear or XP12. Castrol SRF fluid..
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Old 11-04-2016, 11:04 AM
  #33  
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So looking at the OEM vs AC Delco pads. Same Model, same part number, the only difference I can see, and noticed this originally, is A14 vs A15 in the upper right.

Not sure if that means a different compound or not.

AC Delco


OEM
Old 11-04-2016, 05:55 PM
  #34  
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I've been completely satisfied with stock factory Brembo pads. 5,500 miles on clock and 8 track days. Fairly aggressive driver (I instruct for NASA and have a TTU race license). Have not had anyone out braking me that I can recall. Still have enough meat left for street driving till next Spring. They seem to be pretty gentle on the iron rotors as well.
Old 02-07-2017, 07:07 AM
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How many days are you guys getting from your rotors before they're cracked and garbage?

Here are my rotors after three days using Hawk DTC-70 pads at Sebring.

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Old 02-07-2017, 07:23 AM
  #36  
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You can use DBA5000 T3 rings, which are directional (i.e. more cooling), and can last much longer.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vette-hat.html


The cracks are OK as long as they don't reach the edges, and if they don't catch your nail.
Old 02-07-2017, 08:14 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by spearfish25
How many days are you guys getting from your rotors before they're cracked and garbage?

Here are my rotors after three days using Hawk DTC-70 pads at Sebring.

Attachment 48061235
You need a better (higher temp range) pad.See those grey-blue smear marks? That is brake pad melting onto the rotor.

You need a little cooling and a better pad. Those rotors will crack to the edge very soon.

What car is this?

I would try a Raybestos ST47, PFC 01 or the like.

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Old 02-07-2017, 09:00 AM
  #38  
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A few things need to be cleared up in this thread, so I'm going to pull out my secret decoder ring for you gents.

The OEM pads and AC Delco pads are the same compound, and they are both manufactured by Ferodo. Ferodo is a subsidiary of Federal-Mogul (a huge corporation with nearly 50,000 employees). Ferodo was founded in England in the year 1897 and has been supplying brake pads to both the OEM and racing markets ever since. They have a storied racing heritage, and you can see their iconic logo in old F1 racing films, painted on train bridges in the UK, etc. You can see more of their bridges here.

The OEM pad compound name is HP1000/1, and the pads are re-branded Brembo. Brembo includes the same compound in their aftermarket big brake kits. The HP1000/1 compound is about as close as you can get to a true hybrid street/track pad, and is typically used as an OEM pad on high-end sports cars such as the Corvette. Some would call it a 'sport' pad. It's an excellent compound with a wide range of uses. It has a fairly high maximum operating temperature vs. other street pads, yet retains some street friendly characteristics such as good cold bite and relatively low noise. As with all of Ferodo's recent compounds, it's fairly gentle on discs. Some drivers can get away with using it on a light-braking road course on the C7Z, others cannot.

If you plan to use the OEM pads on the street, your best match for a pure racing/track pad would be the Ferodo Racing DS1.11 or DSUNO. The DS1.11 and DSUNO have a much higher maximum operating temperature and a higher coefficient of friction than the HP1000/1 compound. They are more appropriate for pure track conditions, particularly when the car is modified with stickier tires, etc. They will last longer and be more resistant to pad fade.

When you swap between pad brands/manufacturers, the pad material itself can be made from vastly different materials. When you heat those differing materials up and they stick to the disc face creating a pad transfer layer, sometimes they don't "play nice." They can lay down on top of the other in an uneven manner, which causes judder, vibration, and can make a big mess of your discs. However, the situation is a little different with the DS1.11 or DSUNO. They share many of the same ingredients in the mix as the HP1000/1 compound. If you run them back-to-back with the OEM pads, you're a lot less likely to run into many of the judder and vibration issues that may occur when switching to a pad from a different manufacturer. You can see more on that topic in our video "
"



My recommendation for anyone running OEM pads on the street or AutoX would be to use the DS1.11 or DSUNO as your track pad. Both compounds are available in the OEM C7Z06 shapes and can be found here:

Front DS1.11 for C7 Z06
Front DSUNO for C7 Z06

Rear DS1.11 for C7 Z06
Rear DSUNO for C7 Z06

While the cost of switching to pure racing compounds is going to be higher than an OEM pad, the performance will be as well. They'll last longer, offer more consistency, run for longer without fade, and also have less chance of overheating and trashing your discs with uneven pad deposits.

As for choosing between the DS1.11 and DSUNO...If you're coming from the OEM pads on track, I'd recommend starting with the DS1.11's and see how you like them. If you want more mu/bite, then switch to the DSUNO the next time you need pads. If you are already using a fairly high mu race pad, you may just want to start with the DSUNO. Ferodo claims the DS1.11 lasts longer in their official literature, but based on years of customer feedback we've found that the DS1.11 and DSUNO are similar in longevity. The DSUNO just has a higher mu and feels a bit more sensitive to brake pedal input.

If you run a 'staggered' pad setup like the DTC-70/DTC-60, you can run DSUNO front/ DS1.11 rear. For most people we recommend just starting with the same compound front and rear.

FYI...Ferodo DS1.11 and DSUNO are the most popular pad compounds our Essex Designed Competition Brake Kit owners run. Most who start out on them keep coming back to them.

I have to run to a meeting now, but I'll post on the disc cracking issue when I'm back at my desk.

Last edited by JRitt@essex; 02-07-2017 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:08 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by X25
You can use DBA5000 T3 rings, which are directional (i.e. more cooling), and can last much longer.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vette-hat.html


The cracks are OK as long as they don't reach the edges, and if they don't catch your nail.
I think they'll hit the edges pretty soon. The cracks from the slots do catch a nail slightly. There are about 5 or 6 per rotor similar to that.

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
You need a better (higher temp range) pad.See those grey-blue smear marks? That is brake pad melting onto the rotor.

You need a little cooling and a better pad. Those rotors will crack to the edge very soon.

What car is this?

I would try a Raybestos ST47, PFC 01 or the like.
These are Hawk DTC-70 (their most aggressive high temp pad) on a 2016 Z06. I've already added the 2017 brake cooling ducts and blocking rings. Is that really melted pad or just residual transfer layer from my last track day? The whole rotor is covered in that after a session. The abrasive action of street pads and daily driving wears it back off over some time.
Old 02-07-2017, 10:00 AM
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In terms of disc wear, check out the article I wrote on this topic last year:
When is it Time to Replace my Iron Brake Discs?


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