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HVAC Dimmer Question...

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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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Default HVAC Dimmer Question...

I posted this in the C5 audio sticky above but I think it's getting lost in there so I will repost here looking for someone who knows...

Originally Posted by scott_fx
from 14U2ENV:
I found an illumination wire in the HVAC control plug. It is the cream colored wire in the end slot. (disregard the red dot on the wire, I slipped with the probe ) .

My HVAC is much brighter than the radio, is this tan wire the one that would be a candidate for an individual dimmer switch to fine tune and balance it with the rest of the console? That was a solution someone recommended to me.

1. Is the cream colored wire the illumination wire for the whole HVAC or is there another one in addition?

2. What does that other cream colored wire in the bundle do? (In case I wanted to install the dimmer further upstream of the harness... so it is accessible)

3. What are the specs of the line? 12v xx amps... I assume it's a low current line?

Has anyone else ever tried this dimming option? Anyone else have this problem? I know of at least 5-6 that I've seen. Most that don't think they have it actually just never noticed from my experience. I did not realize it until I had the car for about 8 months...

Thanks,
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 01:05 PM
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That's the wire I tapped into to control the dimmer function on my Pioneer HU. Seems to work fine. That's about all the help I can offer you, though; I don't know about adding an individual dimmer.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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does that wire just carry the high/low signal or is it variable (based on the dimmer control) if it's high/low (like i suspect it should be) then i think your s.o.l. i'd test it with a multi meter. if it goes from one voltage to nothing when you turn on your lights then i dont think it would help you out.

all speculation though, i could be wrong.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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Not sure I understand your comment about the high/low signal... the lights on the HVAC dim when you adjust the cockpit lighting normally, so it should be possible, I just want to trim up the starting point (fine tune that element to not always be brighter than everything else). Please let me know what I am missing!

I was loking for some spec on the wire current capability so I could size the dimmer properly.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by EagleFlight
Not sure I understand your comment about the high/low signal... the lights on the HVAC dim when you adjust the cockpit lighting normally, so it should be possible, I just want to trim up the starting point (fine tune that element to not always be brighter than everything else). Please let me know what I am missing!

I was loking for some spec on the wire current capability so I could size the dimmer properly.
I don't understand why you don't go out and try it for yourself?
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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I DO intent to do this, But I was trying to gather as much useful information as possible before I do...

Last edited by EagleFlight; Jan 25, 2006 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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i guess i may be the one confused here. are you planning on putting a pot. in line with the dimmer lead to try to adjust it? the display is a vfd and i believe that you can adjust it by giving the display less then it's regulated 5 volts...i dont know if tht lead your pointing to can control that. or is it the led's that you are trying to adjust.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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My intent was to try to put a dimmer in line so it could be tweeked until it looks close enough. Not exactly sure the best way to do it. Suggestions are welcome. The entire unit is too bright, both the display and the LEDs. When you dim the dash both the display and the LEDs dim so I know it's possible if I find the right wires.

How does the current dash light dimmer reduce the lighting to the HVAC unit? I don't have the wiring schematics.

Last edited by EagleFlight; Jan 26, 2006 at 07:33 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 01:09 AM
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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I ued to drive along happily at night, then I read this thread and noticed the hvac display and controls are brighter on my car to. I cant stop looking at it.........how do I fix it......
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Welcome to my world! That's just what I've been saying!! From what I have seen a bunch of us are like this and live in blissful ignorance, but once you notice there is no going back.

I want to fix it and need some wiring schematic help/guidance...

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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RockyL32
how do I fix it......

take out the bose head unit
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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I'd agree that would work, but lets call that 'Plan B' for now and see what can be done for Plan A...

With regards to a new radio, I have not found just the right unit that fills up the available space like the stock one does and has the right look. I'd like a nice touch screen system that fits in the space (not a pop out screen). I don't want to put in a little skinny radio with a mocked up trim closeout around it, I just don't like the look. Some of the fancy installs I've seen on this site that custom modify the center console trim to make it work are impressive but beyond my capability. Maybe someday...

For now I just want to dim the HVAC lights a little so they match the radio!

Last edited by EagleFlight; Jan 26, 2006 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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i kinda stepped out of this till someone can help with the sire schematic. i wonder if you can hook up a multimeter to that wire and see how it changes when you adjust the brightness **** on the dash
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:36 PM
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How I found it was using my test light. The orange wire is hot all the time. The cream wire on the end was hot when the lights wre turned on. As I dimmed the lights so did my test light while it was on the cream lead.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:38 AM
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ah.. so i think a pot would be the right thing to use in this instance....i think
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 14U2ENV
How I found it was using my test light. The orange wire is hot all the time. The cream wire on the end was hot when the lights wre turned on. As I dimmed the lights so did my test light while it was on the cream lead.
...and it's a 5V line? What kind of current levels?

Did you notice if all the other wires were steady or do we think the display and the LEDs are on separate wires? Good info, thanks!
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by EagleFlight
...and it's a 5V line? What kind of current levels?

Did you notice if all the other wires were steady or do we think the display and the LEDs are on separate wires? Good info, thanks!
Dude? WTF?

I am convinced you want someone to figure out a solution for you!

I am done!
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 14U2ENV
Dude? WTF?

I am convinced you want someone to figure out a solution for you!

I am done!
What's with your attitude? You've had the harness out and done some measurements, I am wondering what you've found out. This isn't a game, I just want to know what I am getting into before I cut into a 50k car that is my daily driver and can't be torn up for long periods of time for a science project. I'd like to know what I need, get in and get out. I appreciate your info, but yes, if you know I would like to know!

There are obviously others here who also want a 'solution' as well!

I started this post looking for the answers to 3 questions (go back and check!) and that hasn't changed.

Relax!

Last edited by EagleFlight; Jan 27, 2006 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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As viewed in the pic earlier in this thread, I used the cream colored wire to connect to the Illum wire on the back of my Kenwood unit. Worked like a charm. Don't worry 'bout the current, internal resistance and the of 11.4 volts (as I measured with the lights on) won't pull a damaging amperage and pop your head unit. The line is either 0 volts or 11.4 volts. As for the single din head units, I combined my Kenwood deck with a 1/2 din 11-band equalizer also from Kenwood...fills the entire area nicely. I'll post a pics of my install shortly:
Kenwood Deck, Kenwood EQ, Kenwood 6.5" 3-way doors, (Bose stock rear deck spkrs), 12" Earthquake sub flush mounted into rear, 2000 watt Pyle Driver 6-channel amp, with a 1 farad cap shoring up the bass!
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