you'd see some benifit if you replaced just the twiddlers with 3.5" coaxial speakers though. you'd finally have an actual tweeter 
Audio experts please advise!!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 660
Likes: 5
From: Glendale CA
Audio experts please advise!!!
Hello everyone,
I have a 00 Corvette C5 that I just installed some car audio in. I installed a Pioneer D1 navagation head unit and added a 10in. sub and Mono amp. I had to use a PAC adaptor to make the stock Bose speakers work.
Now for the questions. I am happy with the results; however, I would like to add some tweeters in the doors. Would I see any benefit to adding high quality speakers in the doors and adding tweeters if I run them to the head unit for power (45watts x4)? In other words, I don't want to run a seperate amp for the door speakers. Would my head unit have enough power? Would it be a noticable improvement? Is it worth the install time?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated in advance.....
I have a 00 Corvette C5 that I just installed some car audio in. I installed a Pioneer D1 navagation head unit and added a 10in. sub and Mono amp. I had to use a PAC adaptor to make the stock Bose speakers work.
Now for the questions. I am happy with the results; however, I would like to add some tweeters in the doors. Would I see any benefit to adding high quality speakers in the doors and adding tweeters if I run them to the head unit for power (45watts x4)? In other words, I don't want to run a seperate amp for the door speakers. Would my head unit have enough power? Would it be a noticable improvement? Is it worth the install time?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated in advance.....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach Florida
I think JB666 just installed a amp for his sub only and is using the Stereo power for his mids and highs, I belive his Alpine puts out 45X4 max and 18 X4 RMS
Maybe he'll chime in and help clear it up.
Maybe he'll chime in and help clear it up.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Originally Posted by Justardnck
I think JB666 just installed a amp for his sub only and is using the Stereo power for his mids and highs, I belive his Alpine puts out 45X4 max and 18 X4 RMS
Maybe he'll chime in and help clear it up.
Maybe he'll chime in and help clear it up.
Internal amps just don't have the ***** required to push components cleanly.
Did you all know that more speakers die from not enough power versus too much? To get the sound out, the volume goes up, the amp stresses, clipping occurs, this leads to voice coils overheating. Once the heat starts, the epoxy coating on the primary starts to soften and things get sticky... once the system is shut down, the speakers COULD gum up... or worse yet, the coil on the primary start to unwind. Once either occurs, the speaker is junk.
What you CAN do, and not hurt anything, is to run components with the mid-bass on an amp and the tweets on the head unit. Tweets don't require as much power.
The only downside, is the lack of crossover control.
The internal amp is also good for a light rear fill. But you don't want to really work them and you want speakers rated to match the output.
The only thing an internal amp is really good for is a light weight system with simple coaxial speakers. 50 watt RMS rating would be about perfect... this would be the kinda system you put in your moms Buick...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by bogus
that is correct... but I will bet major $$ that he will upgrade to a stand alone amp.
Internal amps just don't have the ***** required to push components cleanly.
Did you all know that more speakers die from not enough power versus too much? To get the sound out, the volume goes up, the amp stresses, clipping occurs, this leads to voice coils overheating. Once the heat starts, the epoxy coating on the primary starts to soften and things get sticky... once the system is shut down, the speakers COULD gum up... or worse yet, the coil on the primary start to unwind. Once either occurs, the speaker is junk.
What you CAN do, and not hurt anything, is to run components with the mid-bass on an amp and the tweets on the head unit. Tweets don't require as much power.
The only downside, is the lack of crossover control.
The internal amp is also good for a light rear fill. But you don't want to really work them and you want speakers rated to match the output.
The only thing an internal amp is really good for is a light weight system with simple coaxial speakers. 50 watt RMS rating would be about perfect... this would be the kinda system you put in your moms Buick...
Internal amps just don't have the ***** required to push components cleanly.
Did you all know that more speakers die from not enough power versus too much? To get the sound out, the volume goes up, the amp stresses, clipping occurs, this leads to voice coils overheating. Once the heat starts, the epoxy coating on the primary starts to soften and things get sticky... once the system is shut down, the speakers COULD gum up... or worse yet, the coil on the primary start to unwind. Once either occurs, the speaker is junk.
What you CAN do, and not hurt anything, is to run components with the mid-bass on an amp and the tweets on the head unit. Tweets don't require as much power.
The only downside, is the lack of crossover control.
The internal amp is also good for a light rear fill. But you don't want to really work them and you want speakers rated to match the output.
The only thing an internal amp is really good for is a light weight system with simple coaxial speakers. 50 watt RMS rating would be about perfect... this would be the kinda system you put in your moms Buick...
or you could power some horns with the head unit and add some midbass drivers powered off an amp.
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