Hey guys - I need some advice, as I'm not real familiar with car audio.

I have a '99 coupe, and want to upgrade the HU and speakers. I want to install the new JVC KD-NX5000 Nav Head Unit.

I was wondering if anyone else has installed one of these in a C5 before, or seen one installed, and how difficult it will be.

I also, want to replace the stock speakers front, and rear as well as install a small sub and amp in the back.

I dont want somethign really highend that will break the bank, and am not a huge audio critic where everythign must sound perfect. I just want a decent sounding system.

I also would like to do direct bolt in repolacements for the door and rear speakers if at all possible, and just want a small amp that I can hide in the rear compartment that no one will ever see.

Is it possible to run the 2 door, and 2 rear speakers without an amp (direct power from HU), and just use a small amp for the rear sub?

I dont mean to sound stupid, but any help is appreciated as I'm not at all familiar with this audio stuff.

Thank you!

 

I dont have that HU (in fact I dont have a HU in my car at all.. ), but just by looking at the specs I would say no to trying to run front and rear speakers with it. It is only rated at 20 rms (assuming that is per channel) which really isnt enough for a decent set of speakers.

Since it is a single din unit I dont imagine the install will be that hard at all. Would probably require you to buy a mounting harness for the C5.

If you are going to put a sub in the back you might not have enough room for an amp too. Not to say it cant be done, I have seen peoples install that pulled it off and made it look really good. But I guess it depends on what size sub and what amp you get too. For speakers in the doors, rears and a sub you will either need a 5+ ch amp, or two amps. Most people do not use speakers in the rear though. Just get a nice set of components in the front and a sub in the back and it will sound good (that is the setup most guys are using I think).

Hope that helps some.

 

Check the C5 FAQ for ideas... that should get you started in the right direction.

There isn't a 'direct' bolt in speaker set for the front in a C5... but you can install a set of 6.5" components pretty easily. All you need is a 'baffle' that mounts to the door in place of the stock speaker, and holds your speakers in place.

As for rear speakers, you will find that most folks recommend against them. Stick with the stockers if you absolutely need rear fill... powered off the head unit is fine.

If you want a small amp, there are many to choose from. I recommend a 3 or 4 channel amp... stereo for the front components, single/bridged 3-4 channels for the sub. Alpine PDX amps look pretty sweet, but there are many, many others to choose from. Depends on your budget.

Let us know how much you have to spend, and maybe we can come up with something for you.

Mark

p.s. I'm an Air Force Veteran... if you are a Marine, I'll build you a set of baffles for your front components for FREE.

 

Thanks for the response, and thanks for your Service!!! - Yes, I'm a Marine (no longer active duty, but you know how it is - once a Marine....)

I'm not sure what the "baffles" are that you're refering too, but it sounds like an adapter plate? You said that you make them? Are they not manufactured anywhere?

I'm looking to spend about $1000-$1200 total (hopefully not too unrealistic)

I already know that its gonna cost about $700 for the HU that I want, so that only leaves me about $500 tops for the rest of the system. I'm not sure if I should save to but it all at once or buy it separately a piece at a time.

So far, from what I'm hearing I would need a 4 channel amp - run 2 front component speakers (6.5) off of the first 2 channels, and bridge the last 2 to run the sub (any recomendations for a sub size - I was leaning towards a 10"). I would then leave the stock speakers in the rear, and run them directly off of the HU. Is this even close to right?

Question I have is, will the stock HU run the BOSE speakers? I was under the impression from what I had read, that the stock speakers would only work with the stock HU unless I got an adapter - but will I still need to get an adapter if I want to run the 2 rear speakers? If so, would it be cheaper to just buy 2 new, low end, cheap speakers for the rear instead of buying the adapter?


Also, where should I locate the amp? I've seen alot of people are putting it behind the seat, or on the back wall - I would like to either put it in the large compartment in the back (under the sub) or in one of the side compartments. Is that feasable, or am I going to have to put it behind the seat if I want it hidden?


I hope these questions arent too dumb.

Thaks again Everyone!!!

 

Thanks for your service as well, bro! I was proud to do it... still am, actually.

The baffle plate is an adapter. (Sorry for the confusion.) The offer on the adapters still stands.

The Bose speaker up front is a 8" woofer and a 3.5" "twiddler." To replace the Bose speakers, you need an adapter to convert the opening to a 6.5 component setup. Here is a picture of the opening, complete with depth measurements in red:



The adapters are easily made out of 1/2 or 3/4 MDF. They are made by members here, as well as supporting vendors. I happen to do this stuff for fun, and I have the tools to do it, so it's not a big deal to hook you up.

As for your system, for $1,200 you can have a really good sounding system... if you go with a different H/U than that JVC. Not to bash the JVC, but that's a huge chunk of your budget. $500 isn't a lot to work with right up front... but you can do it in stages if you want.

First and foremost, I'd hit the doors and back end with sound deadening. eDead and Ensolite in the doors, eDead all over the rear. It really cut down the noise in my coupe, and my front mid-bass increased dramatically. I wish I had done it sooner. Cost: about $100-150.

A four channel amp would do well for you. Exactly as you said... fronts powered by the amp on the 'front' channels, with the sub powered by the 'rear' channels of the amp in a bridged mode.

The Alpine PDX amps are pretty small (Dimensions: 7-9/16"L x 10-1/8"W x 2-7/16"H ) but I don't know if they will fit down in the cubby holes. Maybe someone here can chime in with the cubby dimensions?

If you are open to mounting the amp on the back wall, you have a ton of options. (I have my Xtant 603 mounted there.) You could also go with two separate amps, one for the fronts, one for the sub... and do it in stages. Again, it depends on how much you want to spend.

A 10" sub will do quite nicely. I ran a Kicker S10L7 no problem, but I wouldn't go back with that... not a lot of sound quality, but it sure pounded hard. You might be able to get a 12" in there... but if you are concerned about saving space, you need to choose a sub wisely. You only have about 0.88 cu*ft to play with in the center rear bin before you start to get up above the floor.

I can't see any reason that the rear Bose speakers won't work for you... but replacing them with an inexpensive set may be a better idea. I don't see anything special about the rear speakers. It's the front BOSE speakers that need a special adapter, as the 8" drivers have their own sub amp. (Which is why the opening in the door needs the 'square' opening up top, for the amp to clear.)

I don't run rears at all... they are too close to my head and ruin the sound from up front. If you want my opinion, I would hold off on the rears until you get the rest of the system finished... THEN decide if you miss them or not.

If it were me, I'd spend the $1,200 on some good components, a good amp, a sub and box, some wiring, some sound deadening, and a "temporary" head unit. The JVC is so new it's bound to drop in price as time goes on, and you can always sell your "temporary" H/U to re-coop some costs. (It's a damned sexy H/U though... looks cool as hell!) Have you considered a separate nav system? Is it a 'must have?"

Let me know if this helps, and if you would like some recommendations on some equipment.

Mark

 

I also, want to replace the stock speakers front, and rear as well as install a small sub and amp in the back.

A: replaceing the rear speakers is easy. just pull off the panels and use teh stock mounting positions. (yours are 6.5" round for the rears) Front speaker replacement requires fabrication or purchase of a speaker plates. (if you're handy with tools this shouldn't cost more than $10) You can use anything from 5.25"-6.5-even 6x9" speakers (whatever you feel like buying/cutting for) 6.5" will give you the best bang for the buck IMO. Subwoofer installation will be the most challenging part of your installation. It's easy to do, just time consuming.

I also would like to do direct bolt in repolacements for the door and rear speakers if at all possible, and just want a small amp that I can hide in the rear compartment that no one will ever see.

A: Direct replacements for the rears are going to be 6.5" coaxial speakers (pretty mmuch any brand will fit) Replacing the door speakers with bolt on speakers will require 3.5" coaxials. If you're going to aim for a good system, I HIGHLY suggest ditching the entire stock door setup and getting 6.5" speakers for the doors (can be the same as the rears if you like) Reason being that if you want your stock bose subs to work, you need an adapter which usually costs as much as a set of good speakers. if you're going to buy a set of speakers anyway, getting it right the first time will keep you from being frustrated in the future.

Is it possible to run the 2 door, and 2 rear speakers without an amp (direct power from HU), and just use a small amp for the rear sub?

A: Yes, it is possible. Although if you're going to get a amp for your sub, you might want to consider this popular setup: get one 4-channel amplifier run the front channels to your front speakers and bridge your rear channels to the subwoofer. The only additional requirement for this is another set of RCA cables and speaker wires ($30 at the most) and you'll get much better midbass.

 

Ok guys - Thanks alot for the help.

Fasthotrod - I do have my heart set on that HU (unless a new one that has NAV comes out that will fit the c5 without modding the dash between now and when I finally buy it)


Ok - From what I've gathered, here is what I will probably end up doing....

FIRST - Amp and Front Speakers (does the stick HU have RCA outputs, or will I need the adapter? - If I need the adapter, it may make sense just to buy it a peice at a time and put in on the shelf in the garage until I have everything and can install all at once instead of buying the adapter)
SECOND - Sub and Stealth Box (I want decent bass, but dont want to ruin whats left of my hearing also, the less obtrusive the better - preferably not even be seen)
LAST - HU

Now, I need to decide which Amp and speakers to use. Also, do I need to decide which sub I want before buying the amp, or will it not matter?

I'm not in any big rush to do this as I just spent a ton of dough on a new intake (I broke the stock cover, so I had a good excuse ) and new brakes. Its gonna take me a little while to convince the wife to let me spend more on my baby - especially something not mechanical.

Any recomendations on an amp and speakers/sub? Keep in mind that I'm not an audio nut, so I just want something that sounds halfway decent not necessarily the highest end stuff. Also, as with anything else, the cheaper the better

Thanks again for sharing your expertise - This place - and you guys ROCK!!!

 

The stock HU doesn't have RCA outs... so we might have to get the JVC HU first.

If we can get stuff cheap enough, we might be able to get you the components and an amp and everything to hook it up for less than $500. I really recommend the damping materials however... it will sound way better with it installed. It's a $100-150 well spent.

While I have never listened to these speakers, I have heard good things about them: Elemental Designs eDi 6000s v.2 System. $135 for the set.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=49

JBL amps are pretty powerful for the price. You can get a PX300 4-channel on EBay for about $233. (Search for SonicElectronix)

You can also get a JBL GTO75.4 4-Channel amp for about $155. They might be worth a look.

You can get an Alpine PDX-4.150 on EBay for about $400. Fej may be able to get one cheaper, as he is "connected."

As for wiring, you can get a basic 4-AWG kit at Wal-Mart... but some of the guys here are going to KnuKonceptz for some stuff as well.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...llation%20Kits

That should put you in at about $500 or so. Then later we can get you hooked up with a sub!

A sub box will cost you about $100 to $120, depending on who you get it from. You can get one that is "stealth" that fits under your rear bin cover, or get one that sits flush and replaces the cover all together. (I build my own... so I can make them anyway I want. )

As for subs... you can get some decent ones from $75 to mega $$. I am considering running two 10's or one 12" right now... I haven't decided yet. There are a ton of them to chose from... but let's focus on the rest of the system for now.

Let me know if this helps.

Mark

 

Great info -

I found the HU for $685 - now I just gotta convince the wife.

http://www.parkaveelectronics.com/pr...5000&l=Froogle

A couple of quick notes -
I definitely want a sub that I can hide in the rear compartment - ideally the only thing that will look different than stock on the car, would be the HU. On that note - will new speakers fir behind the stock speaker grills? Like I said, I want to keep it looking stock as much as possible, and definitely dont want to do any cutting.

I checked out those speakers, but I have a couple of quesions (probably dumb ones):
Where do I mount the crossovers (and incidentaly - what exactly is a crossover?) - in the door, or do I have to mount them remotely? If not in the door, can I mount them in one of the rear compartments (yeah, lots of wire, but I dont want anyone to see them).

Also, can you pelase explain to me the difference between component and coaxial speakers - and what kind of RMS rating I shoudl be looking for for the speakers, sub, and amp?

Sorry for all of the questions - I'm trying to keep up! I like to learn how things work

 

Gotcha. The two biggest issues will be getting the rear cover to 'look' stock and hiding the amp.

I have heard of guys just sticking their sub box under the rear bin cover, but I would imagine it would vibrate pretty bad. Some have cut out a hole in the cover and just had carpet over it... but I don't like cutting up my stock car pieces... unless you have a spare to hack up. I have gotten parts from Gene (Gene's Kar Shop... supporting vendor) that have allowed me to hack up things without the guilt of "going back to stock." I would build a 'stock looking' cover that goes over the speaker box, but has an opening for the sub... but that's just me.

As for the amp, you can mount it behind the passenger seat but that takes up space and legroom. You can mount it on the back wall, but that's won't look stock... unless you come up with a cover that can let the heat out. Someone that knows the Vette will know it's not stock, but your average person won't be able to tell the difference.

Yes, they will fit just fine. There is about an inch or so between the door and the outer grill area... depending on where you measure from.

I mounted my crossovers on my adapter plate, above the speaker. Look at the picture I posted above... that 'square' area is not being used by anything... so it's the perfect spot to mount a crossover.

A crossover is nothing more than a "traffic cop." It uses inductors (coils) and capacitors to create "gates" that allow certain frequencies to pass, and to block others.

For example, a 'low-pass' crossover will allow low frequency to pass, but blocks higher frequencies from going to the mid-bass speaker. A 'high-pass' crossover will allow the highs to get through, but blocks the lows to the tweeter.

The crossovers that come with the speakers are called "two-way" crossovers because they have both a low pass and a high pass in one box. A "three-way" crossover would have a low pass, a mid pass (AKA bandpass) and a high pass for a woofer, a midrange, and a tweeter.

I can explain it on an atomic level if you want... but that rabbit hole goes very deep.

A coaxial speaker has two drivers mounted in the same axis. In the case of a two-way setup, the tweeter is normally mounted in the same axis as the midrange driver. A component set of speakers has the woofer and tweeter separated, with various mounting options that you can use to your liking. The ED speakers have the option of mounting the tweeter in both a coaxial configuration and in other locations.

RMS is the "real" power rating. All other ratings are bunk, for the most part. Speakers can (normally) handle higher power levels than advertised, so long as it is CLEAN power. Speaker damage normally comes from being underpowered and being driven too had, forcing the amplifier into clipping.

Buying an amp that has more power than needed isn't a problem. You can adjust the gains on the amp to control how much power you send to the speakers.

No problem at all, bro! We all had to learn this stuff at one point or another... and we are more than ready to pass it along to the next guy.

Mark

 

IMO.. if you just want nice filler bass out of your sub, then you can do a single 10" sub and it will be just fine. I went with a JL10w3v3 and it has more than enough bass for me (like you, I am not an audio nut.. I just wanted to make sure it everything sounded good). One thing to keep in mind when you pick out a sub is single voice coil or cual voice coil. If your only doing 1 sub a SVC will be just fine and you can just get a 4 ohm version of the sub. If you want to do 2 subs then you might need to look into getting a DVC and what ohms you will need running them in parallel or serial. You can do DVC as a single sub, but again pay attention to the ohms of the sub. If you have a DVC and you want 4 ohms you will need to get a 2 ohm sub and wire it so you get 4 ohm out of it.

I have heard good things about the eD speakers Fasthotrod was talking about, but I have never heard them either.

As for the mounting the amp, you should not have any problem getting it behind the seat and it being pretty well hidden. Of course part of that depends on what amp you get, but if you find one with a small footprint and is not very tall, you shouldnt have any problems. Unless your wife and/or person that rides with you the most is about 6"2+. I have a Hifonics Zeus 6406 behind my pass seat and I will admit the amp was bigger than I expected.. it is 2.5" tall and I mounted it on a 1/2" piece of mdf behind the carpet... but it still hides pretty well and doesnt take up to much leg room.