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Is this a Good Sub?

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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 01:10 AM
  #41  
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my tc-9 fits in a flush mount box
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 01:42 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I should point out that the box to go into the centre compartment is about 8" deep but will only take a sub about 6" deep due to the shape. That TC Sounds sub is too deep to fit there.

Peter

Very Good Point. I'm going to do a home made (ie custom) Box.

Found a great link to build one your self.

This is weird but, I thinking to use this for my top.

Clear Acrylic Plexiglass Sheet - 1" Thick x 24" x 24"



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ayphotohosting




Putting this in the sides and bottom.






Getting These Guys to do me a Grill.

http://www.jmlaudio.com/custom%20plexiglass.htm






Doing some Lights to it too. Like this.














It does not half to be flush for me to be happy.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 08:53 AM
  #43  
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I played a lot with positioning with a prefab box before building my own and in fact I felt it sounded best pointed backwards at about a 30 degree angle from horizontal. This shape essentially gives you more depth as a bonus, so you can fit quite a large sub in there. Mine is what I would consider a large 12". I can take pics if you like. The box is slick - made of aluminum!

Last edited by Subw00er; Jun 12, 2007 at 09:04 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #44  
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Hey guys...

Here is a PDF of an AutoCAD drawing I did of the box I built. It's a "flush mount" style that replaces the factory cover. I used 3/4 MDF on all box dimensions, and 1/2 MDF for the cover.

vettebox.pdf

You can play with the dimensions to get a little more room around the magnet if need be. Hope this helps.

Mark
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 01:09 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by montyzuma

Getting These Guys to do me a Grill.

http://www.jmlaudio.com/custom%20plexiglass.htm
I'm not saying these guys do anything but first rate work but you're limiting yourself by going with them. if you find someone that does laser etching you can actually get the flag and all of the detail etched into the plexi which will play up the side lighting a lot better. It's not all that expensive either.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 01:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
I played a lot with positioning with a prefab box before building my own and in fact I felt it sounded best pointed backwards at about a 30 degree angle from horizontal. This shape essentially give you more depth as a bonus, so you can fit quite a large sub in there. Mine is what I would consider a large 12". I can take pics if you like. The box is slick - made of aluminum!
Hey, Subw00er. What a great Idea with 30 degree angle. Just did't think

of that. I need more depth for sure. Please take some pics. Would love to

see your box. This forum just rocks.. gezzz
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by montyzuma
Hey, Subw00er. What a great Idea with 30 degree angle. Just did't think

of that. I need more depth for sure. Please take some pics. Would love to

see your box. This forum just rocks.. gezzz

maybe you could modify one of these designs to incorperate a 30 degree baffle

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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:01 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Fasthotrod
Hey guys...

Here is a PDF of an AutoCAD drawing I did of the box I built. It's a "flush mount" style that replaces the factory cover. I used 3/4 MDF on all box dimensions, and 1/2 MDF for the cover.

vettebox.pdf

You can play with the dimensions to get a little more room around the magnet if need be. Hope this helps.

Mark

Thanks Mark for posting Speaker Box Diagram. Nice and simple to understand . I will use it in conjuction with this one.

http://home.comcast.net/~abbogus/Sub...sure_Vette.doc
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
maybe you could modify one of these designs to incorperate a 30 degree baffle


That looks way hard for me to reproduce but does get me thinking.

All the angels it has. wow


.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:11 PM
  #50  
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you could do something a lot more simple you could also take the plans that you had and use them to build the bottom of the box. then get an mdf baffle angled at 30 degrees or whatever you wish. temporarily secure it with dowels and hot glue then do the (upper) sides with fiberglass.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:22 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
I'm not saying these guys do anything but first rate work but you're limiting yourself by going with them. if you find someone that does laser etching you can actually get the flag and all of the detail etched into the plexi which will play up the side lighting a lot better. It's not all that expensive either.

Scott, Is there a place online that I could look at that does etching. I do see your point. Like Idea too.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:32 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
you could do something a lot more simple you could also take the plans that you had and use them to build the bottom of the box. then get an mdf baffle angled at 30 degrees or whatever you wish. temporarily secure it with dowels and hot glue then do the (upper) sides with fiberglass.
Super. That was my major concern, How to attach the lower end of the

box to the Top and make it look good too. The thick Plexiglas may be a

a bad Idea.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #53  
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http://www.pololu.com/laser_cutting.html
there quote turn around time and response time to email is horrible but their prices are pretty good

check the www.bit-tech.net forums to see some different ideas on side lighting plexi. if you use two layers of plexi on top of each other you can get a two color effect as well
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #54  
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These are the plans for the box I built.

One detail that the drawings and pictures do not really capture is that the two triangle sides of the box that protrude up (vertically) from the base are actually angled in towards the woofer slightly. The sides I'm talking about are the lighter grey areas as pictured above. You'll also notice that the bottom of the box was not eleongated as pictured in the drawing, so the actual size of the box is not a full 1.9cuft, 1.75 maybe. But notice that the size is still really LARGE. I originally installed a 12" Dynaudio driver (see the second picture down from here) in there and this was the recommended airspace as per the Dynaudio rep. I have been playing with the box airspace by inserting stuff into the box to make it effectively smaller and with the Diamond Audio sub it sounds much better at around 1.3 cuft.

The box is made out of high grade aluminum and welded (airtight!). The top piece is 1/4" thick and drlled/tapped for the subwoofer mounting screws. The remaining sides are 1/8" (its light and strong!). There are inner baffles to kill what little resonance it had, and even metallic dynamat on some of the faces inside. I was originally worried about the box sounding tinny, but it didnt at all - with the heavy woofer in there, rigid structure, and it lying on the trunk's carpet, it deadens everything pretty much.
The bottom of the box is black powdercoated and the top of the box has been bead blasted and then coated in a clear finish to keep it the bare metal clean. There is also a neat stencil effect of the corvette logo engraved onto the side that faces the driver. This is my favorite design element of the box! Also engraved is the artist's signature - the professional welder (by trade) that built the box with/for me. Here are some pics... enjoy!

The locking bannana plug connectors I used are from a high end home audio company called WBT. http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/bananas_spades.html

Almost done:










Done!:










BTW, the large lip that you see around the box matches the little shelf indentation that the trunk has so it does not slide around or anything. It "hangs" from the that lip into the basin - fits like a glove! With it being 1/8", it sits flush to the carpeted floor.

Last edited by Subw00er; Jun 12, 2007 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 09:09 PM
  #55  
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that's pretty damn sweet. have you experimented with any sound dampening in the box?
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
that's pretty damn sweet. have you experimented with any sound dampening in the box?
Thanks! Ya, I used some dynamat on the walls just below the sub which I'm sure does dampen a bit. I also played with inserting polyfill, but I ended up taking it out becuase its net effect was to make the box seem larger, and I was trying to make it smaller - the box was originally designed for a sub with larger box requirements than the Diamond Audio. I also had a 12" MBquart in there at one time and it seemed to like a bigger box than the Diamond Audio to hit those lower notes.

The way I decreased the airspace was to insert blocks of wood in the little areas around the subwoofer's magnet. I purposely used varying sizes and types of wood, from 2x4 scraps to oak hardwood. Inserting the wood made a very noticable improvement in the sound, not only because there was less space, but it just seemed to smooth the response - all of a sudden I had a box that meshed perfectly with the Dynaudio Components. I'm sure there are no standing waves in there, its way too random an inner surface.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 09:54 PM
  #57  
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very cool. and if you ever go on long trips it can double as a gas tank too!
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 01:40 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
very cool. and if you ever go on long trips it can double as a gas tank too!

You Are killing me ...............

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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 01:54 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by montyzuma
You Are killing me ...............

Can you tell me the max mounting depth of the subwoofer for the box that you made? I have an MTX 9512 that I need to build a box for.
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by VinceC5
Can you tell me the max mounting depth of the subwoofer for the box that you made? I have an MTX 9512 that I need to build a box for.

Subw00er, Would be the man for that.
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