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wiring modification....thoughts?

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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Default wiring modification....thoughts?

I currently have 2 sets of Alpine SPX 177r components running off 2 Alpine MRP F250 amps (front and rear each get their own amp) I currenly have each amp bridged into 2 channels then use the included SPX crossovers to split into high and low frequencies.

The crossovers are capable of being bi-amped. Would it sound any better to use all 4 channels on the amps and run channels 1/3 to the woofer and 2/4 to the tweeter on the xover?

btw: current setup runs 100wx4 RMS; 180Wx4 peak
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Biamping will give you more control over the tweeter vs woofer level. Do you need to reduce the tweeter, or woofer further? If not, don't bother.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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You'd only see a significant benefit if you moved to an active XO and made your own passive filters.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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What makes an active crossover different from a passive?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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active x-over is usually between the head unit and the amp, it's adjustable and it requires a 12v source. passive is usually between the amp and the speakers and requires no power. you can power multiple drivers from one chan with a passive but with active you need a dedicated chan of amplification for each driver
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
active x-over is usually between the head unit and the amp, it's adjustable and it requires a 12v source. passive is usually between the amp and the speakers and requires no power. you can power multiple drivers from one chan with a passive but with active you need a dedicated chan of amplification for each driver
okay, how does an active xover affect the sound quality compared to passive?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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gives you more flexibility in tuning and adjusting x-over points. if your head unit has time alignment features then you can take advantage of t/a each speaker. a speaker distributor like alpine has to make a component set that will sound good in a wide variety of cars. by going active you can make sure that the components are set up specifically with your car in mind.

a few higher end head units (like the clarion drz-9255 among others) have 4 pre outs and pretty stout x-overs so you wouldn't even need an external active x-over. you could do everything internally keeping the signal path as clean as possible.

My last setup had an audio control 24xs then i moved to the alpine h701 and now i'm onto a phaze ldx23 since it has balanced in/outputs.

Last edited by scott_fx; Jul 28, 2007 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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since you have plenty of amp chans you should play around with an active setup. then you can start getting into swapping drivers out until you are insane like fej...i mean me
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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ok. i have an Alpine ERA g320 processor. I don't think it qualifies as an active crossover.

What active crossovers do you reccomend?
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 01:01 AM
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are you having issues with the crossover points? mho, i wouldn't bother going active without even knowing the FR of the drivers...
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Kale
are you having issues with the crossover points? mho, i wouldn't bother going active without even knowing the FR of the drivers...
according to the spec sheet:
Woofer: 25-8kHz
Tweeter: 600Hz-60kHz
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
according to the spec sheet:
Woofer: 25-8kHz
Tweeter: 600Hz-60kHz
Yeah, but what does the woofer look like at 8khz? And how much power can the tweeter handle at 600hz? 600hz out of a compact dome tweeter is very unusual. Usually 2500hz and more is possible without damage.

Do you know if you're having issues with your crossover point?

Those numbers are really suspect.

For example, here is the response of an 8" midbass I just ordered:



Red line: on-axis response
Green line: 30º horizontal
Blue line: 60º horizontal


On axis, Dyn calls it 35-3500

Yet off axis, in a car location, its down 20db at 4khz. So if you crossed it at 3500, you'll have issues.

The highest I'd expect to run it is 2k to get good sound out of it, in a car door install location.



More examples...

The Peerless SLS 8 ,a bad *** midbass:

Click

Look at all the break up at the top.

I say, if it costs you money, don't do it. If it just costs you some time to tinker with it, couldn't hurt to try. Don't cross that tweeter over lower than 2.5khz though.

Last edited by Kale; Jul 29, 2007 at 10:55 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:10 PM
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There are still some small passive filter sections you should implement for each speaker for an active setup. Phase alignment and impedance stabilization are still a good thing. Are they absolutely necessary? No. Will they help? Yes.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale

I say, if it costs you money, don't do it. If it just costs you some time to tinker with it, couldn't hurt to try..


with members like kale, spkrboy, fej, and robvuck (to name a few) it would be a great learning experience.

Originally Posted by Spkrboy
There are still some small passive filter sections you should implement for each speaker for an active setup. Phase alignment and impedance stabilization are still a good thing. Are they absolutely necessary? No. Will they help? Yes.
could this be dealt with using a 30 band 1/3 octave eq? (I'm asking selfishly since my computer will be running eq software)
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_fx
could this be dealt with using a 30 band 1/3 octave eq? (I'm asking selfishly since my computer will be running eq software)
No, because these things are voltage/current manipulations.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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ah, ok. just another thing to put on my plate.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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I think for now I'm going to keep my current setup the way it is. I do plan on an update in possibly early 2008 that will include Alpine new SPX 17PRO speakers, PDX amps and possibly a new amp box....(i might be selling mine so keep your ears open)

thank you all for your assistance.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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before you go and buy new speakers go spend some time at www.diymobileaudio.com

you can get a better sounding system for less $$$ by going active with better drivers
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