wiring modification....thoughts?
The crossovers are capable of being bi-amped. Would it sound any better to use all 4 channels on the amps and run channels 1/3 to the woofer and 2/4 to the tweeter on the xover?
btw: current setup runs 100wx4 RMS; 180Wx4 peak
a few higher end head units (like the clarion drz-9255 among others) have 4 pre outs and pretty stout x-overs so you wouldn't even need an external active x-over. you could do everything internally keeping the signal path as clean as possible.
My last setup had an audio control 24xs then i moved to the alpine h701 and now i'm onto a phaze ldx23 since it has balanced in/outputs.
Last edited by scott_fx; Jul 28, 2007 at 06:36 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Do you know if you're having issues with your crossover point?
Those numbers are really suspect.
For example, here is the response of an 8" midbass I just ordered:

Red line: on-axis response
Green line: 30º horizontal
Blue line: 60º horizontal
On axis, Dyn calls it 35-3500
Yet off axis, in a car location, its down 20db at 4khz. So if you crossed it at 3500, you'll have issues.
The highest I'd expect to run it is 2k to get good sound out of it, in a car door install location.
More examples...
The Peerless SLS 8 ,a bad *** midbass:
Click
Look at all the break up at the top.
I say, if it costs you money, don't do it. If it just costs you some time to tinker with it, couldn't hurt to try. Don't cross that tweeter over lower than 2.5khz though.
Last edited by Kale; Jul 29, 2007 at 10:55 AM.
with members like kale, spkrboy, fej, and robvuck (to name a few) it would be a great learning experience.
could this be dealt with using a 30 band 1/3 octave eq? (I'm asking selfishly since my computer will be running eq software)
thank you all for your assistance.
you can get a better sounding system for less $$$ by going active with better drivers










