I'd like to install a Dynaudio 362 3-way system in a C6. The MW172 needs 78mm depth. Do I have that much room in the C6 door?

 

Plenty. That's a great set, how much power are you giving them? 200w? 300w? 400+?

the big downfall is the xover sounds like **** with more than 100w on itl.. and the midbasses dont even begin to sing at 100w...


wher will you put md142?

 

I've got an Audison LRX 2.500 that'll give them 200W. I was planning to put the mid in the stock location and then find some creative place for the tweeter.

What's this about the crossover? It sux?

 

The crossover is terrible.

With the mid fit up high like that? Keep in mind a 3" dome mid is actually quite huge.

 

Hmm... Dunno. I might have to fab something to get it in, but that's the plan at least for now. I'm just relieved to find the big driver will fit.

What's everyone doing with the crossover? Has anyone tried swapping components for better versions of the same, or should it be chucked entirely? I suppose I could bi-amp and cross the woofer with the amp. What part of the crossover sux?

 

No offense intended to Kale, but please keep in mind that it is Kale's OPINION that the crossover sucks. He doesn't like the way it sounds in HIS car, which isn't a C6. I strongly suggest you try the stock crossover in YOUR car before you start worrying about messing with that. The crossover is the heart of a component set and messing with it should be the last resort unless you really know what you're doing.

The only mount I've *seen* in a C6 of a 3 way is to put the midbass & tweet in the opening where the stock sub is in the door (Kale is correct about the depth, tons of space) and mount the midrange into the space in the door panel where the stock 3.5" fires through the grille. The stock 3.5" driver is actually mounted to the door panel, but for a 4" midrange that probably won't work well. I haven't started messing with tweeter location in C6 yet so I can't tell you how it will do down there, but I have to believe it's a decent *starting* point because at least for my Focal TN52 tweets mounting them in the 3.5" stock location is.. painful to the ear. Practically anywhere else is going to require a lot of fab work and regardless of that, will require alot of experimentation, small changes can make big differences. Just expect to mess around with the location of the tweet a lot.

 

And unless you own and can use an MLS-based measurement system, you won't. If you try to build crossovers using tables and charts, you'll fail miserably.

Crossovers are everything, and as Kale says, the factory crossovers are bad. ALL factory crossovers are bad. There are no exceptions (not even the prettied-up models Alpine sells with their big-$ components). They aren't made for specific vehicles so they'll sound different in different vehicles. The amount of power you dump into it won't change anything unless you're overloading the capacitors or saturating the inductors (both highly unlikely). Try the ones you have first. If they aren't to your liking, find someone with a test suite or go active all the way around.

 

No, the crossover is poorly done garbage that can't even handle the power that the component set requires. You'll find that this is a pretty universal opinion held by those familiar with Dynaudio.

I ditched the crossover entirely and went active 2 way instead of 3 way. This requires extra amps and complications you probably don't want to get into. But yeah, try it and see.

The 3" dome mid, iirc, is a little more than 5" across, about 2.5" deep and sticks out about .75" at the front.

 

...who are generally people without the capability to measure what's wrong to know exactly what the problem is, so they simply assume it's got the be the crossover. Just because you remove the passive crossover doesn't mean it's the problem. In all likelihood, the crossover has problems, mostly related to the fact that it's not intended for a specific vehicle but it may also be the drivers are partly at fault. Or even the implementation in the vehicle. Besides, passive crossovers do far more than just divide the signal.

Speakers do not require a minimum amount of power. They may sound better at high volumes compared to low volumes, but that's generally a function of sheer volume compensating for poor performance at more reasonable volumes. Your hearing response changes with volume, so more than likely, by turning it up, you're changing your personal sensitivity as opposed to actually modifying the driver's response.

By the way, FWIW, these are all signs of inferior drivers, whether they 'sound good' or not.

 

Well for example, there is audible distortion from the tweeter using the passive at higher volumes. If you mimic the crossover settings with an active unit, you don't get the same distortions (Though it still sounds kinda bad because it allows the tweeter to play too low.)

 

You can't mimic a passive xo with an active. Things happen in a passive that an active can't replicate. Ever.

Apples and oranges.

 

I'm just talking about slope and crossover point. The dyn passives introduce some kind of distortion once you start raising the volume to "fun levels"

 

Again, they're VERY different things. There's way more to this than just slope and frequency (and you can't even match those with an active). You'd be surprised that what some people hear as a 'distortion' is actually a lack thereof. There's no way to validate your opinion about distortion without measuring it.

 

It's a constant bright "hissing" noise that I kept trying to cover up by changing tweeter locations and EQ until I talked to someone that installed Dyn for years, and he said "ditch the passives." voila, gone.

It shows up when there's a lot of information, lets say electric guitars playing, with some cymbals, once the volume starts going up you get the constant TSSSSSSCRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHH played along with it.

 

So, about the mids. Has anyone done three way in the C6 door?

 

Yes, as I mentioned in my earlier post, I do remember a thread with a set of Focal 3-ways installed. Midbass & tweet down in the sub position, midrange in the upper door opening.

 

The MD142 does quite well on the floor... if you could make a door sill enclosure, or more similar to a kick panel enclosure... I experimented with this quite a bit before I sold the mid out of my 3 way set.

 

OK, then I'm going to try. I'm a little worried about the crossover, but I'll give it a go.

 

I have no idea what you guys are talking about but man you can come up with the tech terms You are my idle. I have to add TSSSSSSCRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHH to my buzz word aresenal (goes with ******** smashing oontz!)
Kale, you are a god in my book

 

Yeah what the hell, it might not bug you. BTW,

btw try lots of positions for the tweeters. I like about 30' off axis myself.